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Old 03-06-2013, 11:33 PM
les45 les45 is offline
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Default Cylinder will not unscrew

I have a Model 65 with a slight end shake problem (about .004). Cylinder gap is about .003 when all the way forward. I tried to disassemble the cylinder to install an end shake shim but when I unscrew it almost all the way out, it stops and will not turn the final thread or two. I know it is a backward thread and I am turning it in the right direction (clockwise) to get it off. What could be causing it to stop? I have put moderate pressure on it but I haven't tried to turn it any harder for fear of breaking something. It screws in normally and reassembles fine.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:00 AM
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there must be some debris in the threaded assembly. I would soak it overnite in penetrating oil.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:30 AM
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Mike McLellan Mike McLellan is offline
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Agree with above. Foreign matter is the culprit. Do as he says, and get a can of compressed air. Great stuff.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:26 AM
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Yes, more than likely crud. Here is how I would do it............

After soaking in penetration oil, when you get to the clogged section of the thread, turn it back and forth - back & forth advancing it towards the off position ever so slightly almost like you would cut threads with a tap or die - a little at a time. That should do it. DON'T FORGET to insert empty shells into the cylinder when re-assembling it!
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:46 AM
garbler garbler is offline
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Not often but every now and then I used to run into a service gun or rental piece that some bonehead had put thread locker like Loctite on the extractor rod threads. You won't know until you get it apart but a little heat would be good insurance since you can stretch those fine threads really easy. In fact I learned from an old gunsmith who used to actually place tight and suspect cylinders in hot cooking oil for while. Boiling water would work also but oil is what he used.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:03 PM
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Don't forget to insert empty shells in the cylinders when removing it either.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:24 PM
les45 les45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fkimble View Post
Don't forget to insert empty shells in the cylinders when removing it either.
I've got two pieces of oak dowel that fit perfectly for that use. I keep them in my gun box just for that purpose. I've tried heat by sitting it in front of a space heater for a while after soaking with Kroil but that didn't work. Might try the hot water next. The funny thing is when I put it all back together, the end shake was a lot less, maybe down to about .002. Stay tuned.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
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Why? What does that do?
The empty shells or wood dowels will act as stops for the ejector star. If they are not used excessive force can bend or shear off the ejector star pins.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:00 AM
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Well, the hot water thing didn't work either. Boiled it in water for 15 minutes and then thoroughly soaked it with Kroil using leather gloves. Also tried the gradual in and out movement but nothing worked. Still comes to a dead stop near the end. I suspect it is a metal burr that is the problem. Decided it wasn't worth the risk to go any further and reassembled everything (after drying and thoroughly coating with CLP). The gaps really aren't that bad so I'll keep it and shoot it like it is. Thanks for all the comments.

Last edited by les45; 03-08-2013 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:15 PM
USBP SW USBP SW is offline
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If the endshake returns, you can always go the route of stretching the yoke.

Actually, I hope the problem doesn't return, good luck and enjoy shooting,
Steve
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