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04-29-2013, 01:54 PM
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Trigger Pull is too light on my M-65
I think the Trigger pull is too light on my Model 65. It measures 2 1/2 lbs in SA with my trigger gauge and just feels a little on the hairy side when I am at the range. My other S&W revolvers break at around 3-3 1/2lbs in SA. I love the DA pull on this gun so, what would be the best way to increase the SA pull by about a pound or so?
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04-29-2013, 02:03 PM
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Make sure the mainspring tension screw on the lower front grip strap is snug. If it is, a spring change may be in order. Has it had trigger or spring work done?
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Alan
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04-29-2013, 02:18 PM
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2.5 pounds is bullseye-legal and can be mechanically safe on a S&W revolver. However, I agree with you that it is a bit light in practical use. If the above does not fix it, I would consult a COMPETENT gunsmith. It's not that easy to work on the single-action notch of a hammer, and S&W hammers are case-hardened, so it's pretty easy to screw up the hammer. Leastways, that's how I see it.
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04-29-2013, 02:35 PM
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The tension screw is tight. Im not sure if the mainspring is original or not. The gun is 30 years old and was a state police turn-in. So I assume that the strength of the mainspring determines the SA trigger pull? It may have just weakened over the years. I'll order a new one and see if that helps. Thanks
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Cliff
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04-29-2013, 02:39 PM
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A quality revolversmith can cut the single action sear to a variety of preferred poundages.
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04-29-2013, 03:08 PM
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You might also check the rebound spring.....it's integrity and strength has an effect on SA. Full length should be approx 17 coils.
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04-29-2013, 03:10 PM
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Trigger too light for my taste...
Thanks for the post. I have a really nice Mod. 15 I bought used in the 80's (TT, TH & diamond TS) with a 2# 11oz. SA trigger that I'd prefer was a little heavier. I know more about shooting & cleaning guns than I do about working on/fixing them. I'll start looking for a gunsmith this week. If anyone can recommend one in the NE Fla. area, that would be great.
I should have mentioned that 20 yrs. ago I loved the trigger. But since then I've had a stroke which caused a seizure so violent it broke my back in 2 places, ripped 80% of the muscles & ligaments from my right (I'm RH) rotator cuff, I'm getting arthritis in the hands & am on a BUNCH of meds. (makes me shake)I'm not disagreeing with anybody, just explaining why I'd like a heavier pull, so I can still SAFELY enjoy this magnificent gun. (This gun is not in my SD rotation)
Last edited by mrflash; 04-29-2013 at 05:18 PM.
Reason: additional info.
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04-29-2013, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Thanks for the post. I have a really nice Mod. 15 I bought used in the 80's (TT, TH & diamond TS) with a 2# 11oz. SA trigger that I'd prefer was a little heavier
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That is perfect single action pull for a well-used Model 15. I would leave it alone unless it has been modified already. All my old stock K frames are around 2 3/4# single action pull.
You should be shooting double action for defense anyway.
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04-29-2013, 04:29 PM
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"You should be shooting double action for defense anyway."
I agree 100%. I may just leave mine alone. It shoots fantastic in DA.
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04-29-2013, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hearsedriver
So I assume that the strength of the mainspring determines the SA trigger pull?
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Basically, no, as I understand it. The primary variable in SA trigger pull is, I believe, the SA sear notch in the hammer. I think that mainspring strength can affect it a little, and I know that certain lubes can affect it some.
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04-29-2013, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951
You might also check the rebound spring.....it's integrity and strength has an effect on SA. Full length should be approx 17 coils.
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+1
The rebound spring has much more effect on the SA pull than the main spring. It was common (accepted) practice to clip the rebound spring 1 - 1 1/2 coils. The stock spring will have flattened and ground coils on each end. A clipped spring will have ends that are clearly not the same. After-market rebound springs usually do not have ground ends.
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04-29-2013, 09:18 PM
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All things being new and untouched, the primary regulator in this relationship is the bevel on the trigger. It's sharpness and angle are critical.....pressure exterted from the mainspring and rebound also play an important roll. I agree with Tomcatt. IMO, the pressure/tension supplied by the rebound is more important with respect to SA than the hammer tension. Slight variables in the manufacturing, fitting and assembly process make each gun unique though.....especially the older, "pre-CNC" models.
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04-29-2013, 09:28 PM
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Count the coils in the rebound spring. If there is less than 17 then it has been cut to lighten the trigger. To increase the pull just install a new spring.
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04-29-2013, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gutterman
Count the coils in the rebound spring. If there is less than 17 then it has been cut to lighten the trigger. To increase the pull just install a new spring.
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That'd be where I'd start, try replacing the rebound spring with a stock or heavier than stock spring. While it's apart, give it a good clean and lube.
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04-30-2013, 12:05 AM
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Well, you guys nailed it! It was the rebound spring. I found a package inside the box that had a what I assume is the original, flat ground, rebound spring. When I compared it to the one that was in the gun, it was nearly 1/8" longer. After installing the old spring, my SA Trigger pull is between 3 3/4 and 4 lbs. Much better for me! Thanks for the help!
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01-26-2017, 11:41 AM
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My 65 also has a hair trigger in SA. I just can't shoot accurate in SA so I only shoot DA. I stage the trigger for precision shots This model may have been designed to have a very light trigger pull in SA.
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01-26-2017, 12:06 PM
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S&W factory specification for the SA pull is 3lbs. The model 65 is an "M&P", and is not designed to have a "very light trigger" in SA. The current specification is the same for all models.
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01-26-2017, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Model520Fan
It's not that easy to work on the single-action notch of a hammer, and S&W hammers are case-hardened, so it's pretty easy to screw up the hammer. Leastways, that's how I see it.
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You should NEVER touch the cocking notch on a S&W hammer. The cocking notch is only .006/.007 inches high. One nick or boo boo and the hammer is ruined.
If the notch is in good shape, and spring tension isn't behind this, then the trigger sear will need sharpened. That is the part you touch, not the cocking notch. The trigger sear needs to be sharp enough to shave your finger nail in order to operate properly. So again, any nicks or boo boos on the sear and you will get light pulls or push off.
Last edited by iPac; 01-26-2017 at 02:12 PM.
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01-26-2017, 03:13 PM
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I am no expert, but had a similar problem with my 10-5 snub. Strain screw was tight. Light primer strikes. Examine that screw closely. Someone may have shortened it. Mine was. Put a different 1 in and perfect. Bob
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01-27-2017, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinberg
My 65 also has a hair trigger in SA.
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The rebound spring has the most affect on SA trigger pull, as already mentioned.
Try replacing it with a new standard weight spring & if it's still too light for you go up higher until you get the feel you want.
.
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01-27-2017, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iPac
You should NEVER touch the cocking notch on a S&W hammer. The cocking notch is only .006/.007 inches high. One nick or boo boo and the hammer is ruined.
If the notch is in good shape, and spring tension isn't behind this, then the trigger sear will need sharpened. That is the part you touch, not the cocking notch. The trigger sear needs to be sharp enough to shave your finger nail in order to operate properly. So again, any nicks or boo boos on the sear and you will get light pulls or push off.
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It's not just sharpening - It has to be "sharpened" at the proper angle. There are specific jigs made to do this : Power Custom Series 1 Stoning Fixture Guide
It can be adjusted, within reason, to give heavier or lighter pull weights.
Jeff
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01-27-2017, 01:43 PM
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If you are not doing this every day, you don't need a $150.00+ jig.....you can sharpen the bevel at the correct factory angle on the benchtop, using the correct stone.
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