Hey guys, I'm addicted to the 686 and just brought home a brand new one today. I looked it over and everything seemed great at the store (the barrel was even aligned properly!). I got it home and after some dry firing it developed what I believe is excessive wear to the ratchet (you can see that it's chewed up around the edges). My other 686 that has far more dry fires and has actually been shot does not look like this. It had developed a bit if a hitch in one if the trigger pulls but it seems to be okay now and perhaps worked out a burr? The ratchet looked fine to me at the store.

Is this something that I need to involve S&W with or of it shoots fine and the hitch in the trigger pull doesn't reappear is it some thing that isn't a concern?

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I don't like the look of the burring.

That's out of line for a new gun and you don't usually see that even in a well used gun.
I'd contact S&W and show them the picture.
Most likely, they'll send you a shipping label to send it back for inspection and repair.

Those burrs you're referring to around the edge of the ratchet are not from the hand, but are leftovers from the machining operation that created the rachets. They are not a concern unless they are severe enough to interfere with the rotatation of the cylinder. Some additional dry firing and break in at the range will probably resolve. Does the cylinder carry up properly when cycled? That is, does it rotate fully and lock up on the cylinder stop when cocked single action?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Yup it locks prior to the hammer dropping. Basically I can stage the trigger where the cylinder is locked and apply just a bit more pressure and the hammer will fall. It cycles fine for the most part but every so often there will be a hitch both in DA trigger pull and cocking the hammer, it has gotten less and less frequent so perhaps I will just keep at it and hope works out. I could have swore it didn't look like that at the shop but I was more concerned with the barrel alignment (having gotten one already out of alignment) and the cylinder lock up.

Edit- I think I missed understood what you were asking, yes it locks properly when cocked single action.

Thanks

The "shiny" surfaces on those burrs aound the perimiter of the ratchet indicate they may have been rubbing on the breechface as you were dry firing the action. Burrs are probably the source of the resistance you were feeling. You may be able to see some evidence of this contact if you look on the breech around the center pin hole.
As I indicated, probably not a concern, and contact or interference will be eliminated with some break in. Burrs are not the result of the hand acting/pushing on the ratchets themselves.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

If the trigger is smooth, then don't worry. If the trigger is "gritty," then dry fire a few hundred times. Enjoy your new revolver.

Well thanks guys. I'm relieved that's it's probably not something to worry about. Now I need to find a 6" to go along with my 5" and this 4"

If it were mine and the gun functioned normally in all other respects I would use an extra fine miniature Arkansas stone to remove THE BURRS ONLY without touching any other surfaces or going past the burrs themselves. If you don't have the tools, ability or confidence to do so, send it back to the Factory.

Remove those burrs as soon as possible!!!!

Ok here's the deal. I don't believe that I noticed any burrs on the ratchet when I purchased my 686.

However one day the gun locked up tight after a few rounds.

This was after it was sent back for the modification.

When I took the gun apart the ratchet had galled the recoil plate.

I stoned the galled area smooth and have not had a problem since then.

Stainless can and will gall under the right circumstances. I've seen it happen more than once and it was on a Smith revolver and a Smith 639.

Once a gun locks up, it will be a very long time, before you will ever trust it, to work every time.

Just my .02$

Bruce