I bought this 586 last year with intentions on turning into a competition shooter for service gun.

I knew fully well that this gun's previous owner etched their initials and number on the side plate, cylinder and trigger guard.

I had planned to leave the etching as is.

I am nearing the point where I plan to send this to a gunsmith for action and internal mods.

I think I want to either thin or remove the etching. while the cylinder and trigger guard does not seem deep, the side plate was etched better.

how would you remove....or suggest someone who can remove without leave a flat or mark....or just leave.

I will have the gun re blued if the markings are removed.

again, I knew they were there.....the gun is very solid for what I plan to use it for, the gun came at a good price....decided I want them gone now.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

That isn't "etching" in the strict sense of the word. Some Bozo took an electric pencil to your fine revolver.

It's going to require a complete re-blue of the pistol to get rid of those marks. If you can afford it, I'd have the revolver redone at the factory, along with any other work you feel it requires.

Nobody can give that piece a decent "rebirth" like the S&W factory can!

Agree that making this one right is a job the factory can do, and do well.
I have had them replace a couple sideplates and those turned out perfect. Didn't cost an arm and a leg, either.
That said, my guess is that it will refinish just fine.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Who knew Bubba could write? That's a shame, but be sure and post pictures of it when it's been refinished.

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Oh well, what the hell.

Thanks for the info.

Anyone tackled a job like this at home?

Successes or disasters....plz report.

Thanks in advance

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if you're gonna be a bear...

Back in the '70's this was common practice and the police even encouraged people to etch their SS# on valuable items and loaned out the electric pencils.

I've got a bring back 1917 Erfurt Luger that had someone SS# on the back strap. Luckily, the wear on the gun was such that I could polish the numbers off and touch up with some cold blue to hide the damage. It would have been impossible to do so on a gun with perfect bluing without a complete reblue. I figure he cost his estate several thousand dollars by marking his guns this way.

If the rest of the gun is fine (doesn't need aggressive polishing) and you're going to have it re-blued,,,you can strip the gun down and chemically remove the blue from the entire gun.

Anything from naval jelly to vinegar to very dilute muriadic acid will work fine. Several threads on favorite bluing remover concoctions in the past.
Then brighten up everything including the roto-engraved markings. No buffing wheels,,a very gentle wire wheel with some oil on the metal surface works nicely.
You just want to bring some luster & eveness back to everything.
Then set to working on removing the markings. Working on just those small areas polishing them down and matching the polish in with what you already have.
You can eventually change the entire gloss of the metal but you have something to match while working both in polishing marks and luster.

When you're satisfied, have the parts hot salt blue 'dipped'. You do the reassemble. Shouldn't cost much as you've done all the labor.
You can also rust blue the parts. A slightly different look when done but certainly not in a bad way.
The latter can be done on the kitchen stove top. Summer weather is a good time for the process.

Looks like the "etching tool was a 20 penny nail and a ball peen hammer....I bought an L E turn-in with similar art work once,only on the side plate, which I thought I could live with.... After buying my third used side plate, at about $25 a pop, I got one that fit perfectly. I could not be content with a buggered-up S&W after all.

You might want to look into someone local who has micro tig or micro laser welding equipment. Those marks can be filled in with tiny weld beads under a microscope then stoned down perfectly flush with the surrounding steel. Then off for a re-blue. No removing a bunch of steel or sanding + polishing until the marks are gone. I'd hit the yellow pages.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

No... No... you do not want anyone welding on the cylinder (especially in that area where the metal is at it's thinest) and risk affecting the heat treating that was done by the factory.

If it were mine, I'd explore having it media/bead blasted to erase the markings and then either have it blued, resulting in a no gloss matte finish or cerakoated.

As bad as they look, they are probably fairly shallow and media blasting would take care of them with the least amount of effort.

That would make it look decent without all of the expense of the prep work needed to get it back in the full court original polished blue finish.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

It's just engraving... most of it can be sanded and polished out by the rebluer. There are a number of competent gun refinishers, I don't understand the call to send it back to the factory when you probably have somebody local who can do a great job.

Those marks are very easy to polish out w/hand tools and techniques. Those cheap diamond lap sticks work great for such things and keep everything nice and flat & straight. Just blend the new and old work polishing lines and gloss together when done.

The rounded surfaces of the trigger guard and cylinder are the easiest to do. The side plate takes a bit more time and effort but certainly something someone with basic metal working skills can do.

2hrs max to get everything ready for the re-bluer from where it sits now.

This gun was bought to be a competition gun. It will be handled hard. I bought it because of the price and its internally solid and hardly shot condition.

If I mess it up, I still have a piece intended for what I want to do with it.

where do I find those cheap diamond lap sticks?

I am leaning toward Nelson Ford as my gunsmith for this gun and I am sure Phoenix AZ and or the surrounding area has a gun bluer or two there. He worked on a model 15 a few years back that was a dream to press the trigger.

thanks to all

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if you're gonna be a bear...

"where do I find those cheap diamond lap sticks?"

These are the ones I'm refering to. I find them locally but on-line is a great source too. Watch the shipping charges though.
Amazon.com: EZE-LAP L PAK5 Set SF/F/M/C/XC Color Coded Diamond Hones: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bVk2X3ASL.@@AMEPARAM@@41bVk2X3ASL

I use the fine/med/ & course grade ones. They last a long time.
I use them dry mostly buy a touch of oil or even water helps.
I always have a bunch on the bench.


When they do get worn, they make great general sharpeners for the tool & tackle box.
Even a worn ones will sharpen the flint on flint lock very nicely too (med & course).
A couple swipes and you have a sharp edge again.