Being picky, I see those pesky copper likes running along side my riflings in my pistols barrels. I use Hoppes 9 which does nothing to them and i have a shooters choice bore barrel cleaner that is some better at removing them but it takes a long soak and a lot of elbow grease. I use both nylon and bronze brushes.
My question: is there a product and method that removes these copper colored lines better than what I'm using now. Your product and procedure please ....thanks.

DR

Of course not, it's a powder solvent.
Hoppes makes a copper solvent, as do a lot of companies.
Follow directions (patience required).

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Science plus Art

Bronze brushes seem to me to leave them in. Two ways to get them out are cleaners with ammonia like hoppes 9 and the hoppes for copper and repeated soaking over night and the foul-out Outers Foul Out 3 Bore Cleaning System I have a model 64-8 police trade cleaned using both methods and no trace of anything is left. I doubt it is worth doing on a normal basis my gun was packed with carbon lead and copper the likes of which I've never seen before.

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A republic if you can keep it

KG-12 Big Bore Cleaner

has come out on top of a couple of copper removal tests I have read.
If I shot more copper I would get some. I use CR-10 when I
need an ammonia based solvent.

Hoppes does make a copper solvent but, again, I have never used it.
The CR-10 was better in tests. KG-12 was even better.

Unless your accuracy is deteriorating, I would not get too excited
about removing every last bit of fouling. I always leave a little
to reduce or eliminate the need for fouling shots in a pristine barrel.
If you do get your barrel completely clean, condition it with something
like Eezox or even light oil and then a dry patch. This will reduce
the friction and subsequent fouling.

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Nemo

Nearly all of the benchrest shooters use Sweets to keep their barrels copper free. It works great but follow directions.

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Dick

I bought a sportered krag about twenty years ago. Now we all know that powder and bullet jacket fouling is/are put down in layers. First few times I used hoppe's and patches all came out green. Dryed the barrel and used shooter's choice to get at the copper. Cleaned out the shooter's choice and back to hoppes. This went on for like two weeks until patches started coming out clean. I could swear that the grooves actually got deeper once the real cleaning began. Still have that old krag. Frank

I use Hoppes Bench Rest #9. I soak a patch in it, and push it most of the way down the barrel until I just see it come out the other end of the barrel. I plug the other end with an old foam ear plug and let sit overnight.

The next morning I use a dry patch followed by a quick swab with regular #9. In my experience this will get all or nearly all the copper out of the barrel.

Try sweets 7.62 after you clean the loose crud out with Hoppes #9, hold your breath though and don't use a bronze brush.

Whatever method you use you have to clean the powder and lead out first. You can use the Hoppes #9 for this. I have found that #9 will not take out copper very well. Try sweets 7.62 for copper. If you shoot a rifle and reload use CFE 223. Works pretty good to remove existing copper.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

wipe out bore foam is easy and works wonders overnight.

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The American dream is alive

I would recommend JB Bore cleaner. Clean your barrel like normal, then run 2 patches of JB down the barrel and short stroke it as you do it. Then clean again like normal to get the JB out. All the copper will be gone.

Before JB was available we used to use plain old Colgate tooth paste. Same process as above with the JBs then a patch or two wet with alcohol to remove the residue. And finally a lightly oiled patch which should exit looking as clean as it went in. Also found that toothpaste and paper towel patches were quicker cleaning than toothpaste and cloth you just could not make them as tight or they would punch through.
Not sure how the new modern toothpastes with all the added ingredients and gels would do but I suspect they would not be as good and since JBs is fairly easy to find they are probably no longer worth the effort.
Chip King

There are 2 basic bore cleaning methods. Chemical and mechanical. Make sure you know which cleaner you are using and then use it correctly. For example if you are using a chemical cleaner, don't use a lot of elbow grease. Give it time to work.

I have tried most of the popular products on the market currently. As others have mentioned, Hoppe's #9 isn't intended to remove copper or lead. I have my own personal preference for copper removal (Sharp Shoot R link) but I can't say it works significantly better than most of the other good copper removers.

Now let's talk about some important things. If you are starting with barrel that hasn't been properly cleaned in the past, it is going to take some time and effort. Be patient and work your way through the layers until it is totally clean. Do use quality cleaning products (rods, patches, bore guides) so you don't damage the bore during the cleaning. Once you get it totally clean, it will clean MUCH easier after the next firing.

Personally I coat the bore with Ed's Red as soon as I finish shooting while still at the range. The carbon continues to harden with time, so this keeps it softer for easy removal. And if you were shooting lead and have any lead in the bore, it will start to wick under the lead and make the removal much easier. With lead, I soak overnight as a minimum.

When I have use chemical cleaners to remove all the copper, I finish with JB bore cleaner, followed by JB bore bright. This puts the bore in a very clean and conditioned state to resist build up. Butche's bore shine works in a similar fashion.

I really feel it is more important to focus on the process you use rather than the actual products, provided they are used appropriately. It takes a lot of effort to really get your bore clean. Those pesky copper lines can be eliminated.