It was commonly known back in the police revolver days to remove the factory trigger stop due to its potential to move and lock up the action. I had completely forgotten about that and last week when shooting my 19-2 4" the gun locked up. Cylinder would not open and action was locked up.

I took the sideplate off and I could see that the trigger would not return to the full forward position. This caused the hammer to be ever so slightly back, which prevented the thumb piece from moving forward to unlock the cylinder. It also jammed the bolt into the cylinder notch, preventing cylinder rotation.

The reason the trigger would not move forward is because the trigger stop had rotated upwards, kind of jammed in its slot. It created interference with the upper trigger body. I removed the trigger stop and reassembled the gun and all works fine.

This simple little thing caused all this trouble. Now I remember why I removed one from my 2 1/2" 19-3 over 30 years ago.

So, I thought I'd post this as a warning to anyone using a trigger stop-equipped K-frame as a self defense gun that you may want to remove it.

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Tony

Although I've got plenty of Smiths with trigger stops and they have never come loose, removing them on a carry SD gun isn't a bad idea. My EDC M60-7 does not have one nor do I carry a gun with one but if you want to insure that this never happens to you I could see removing it - not a big deal, just one small screw.

I'm thinking the OP is referring to the hammer block, not the 'trigger stop'

And yes, it is easily removed, it just lifts out.

No sir! He's talking about the trigger stop.

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Why, I aughta.....

I'm having one of those CRS moments.
Can someone post a pic of the trigger stop?
The only trigger stop I can think of is a screw through the trigger.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

No, he was referring to the trigger overtraval stop, that was installed in target K frames- M15s, M19s, M66s- that were used by police agencies, though anyone who used one for self defense was encouraged that have the stop removed.

These revolvers can be IDed by turning them upside down and looking at the slot that is machined into the frame behind the trigger. If that slot is empty, it has either had the stop removed or possibly never installed.

Back during my cop days, S&W sent out a bulletin to LE agencies. I removed enough of them to fill a small pill bottle.

N frame target revolvers used a steel rod that fit inside of the trigger rebound spring to limit overtravel.

NEVER remove the hammer block from a S&W revolver!!!!!!!!

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I found these photos on Google.

Trigger stop in place:



Trigger stop removed:



How it is secured:



What the trigger stop looks like removed:

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SWHF #448

Well, that explains that.
My model 10 is apparently a model that never had one, being a fixed sight gun, and whatnot.
I don't know if the 586/686 had them or not. I don't recall seeing one in my 586.
From what I'm finding, all 6" L frames had the stop and all 4" L frames that were equipped with the target hammer and trigger came with it.
Mine has the 4" barrel with the wide, smooth trigger and semi-target hammer. That's what Bangor Punta calls it, anyway.
So, I guess there's no trigger stop for me.

I bet you could sell that bucket full of them, now, to collectors wishing to return their guns to factory stock configuration.

It also says that mine came equipped with the Goncalo Alves target grips.
Of course. I can get the walnut target grips easily enough, but the GA seem to bee harder to find/more expensive.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

db, those are excellent photos. Thanks for finding them and posting. That is exactly what I was talking about. I always thought if the part came loose and moved it would drop down and prevent the trigger from being pulled all the way back and not able to trip the DA sear, thus preventing firing. I never personally experienced that, or knew anyone who did. But, I did read about that being a potential issue. In my case, it rotated to the rear and up. In your second to last photo, it was binding against the lower "hump"(?) of the trigger and would prevent the trigger from moving completely forward.

If I am repeating myself here my apologies. With the trigger not completely forward the front of the trigger was engaging the cylinder stop (bolt) and had it firmly pressed into a cylinder notch. And, the hammer, being slightly back, blocked the cylinder release from moving forward.

I don't know why these were only installed on K frames with adjustable sights. None on N or L. I also don't know when or if the slot was no longer present on these guns as the "newest" adjustable sight K frame I have is a 66-1 2 1/2". It has a slot, but no stop installed.

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Tony

No, in the early to mid-70s, S&W found out exactly what has been posted here. The trigger stop could come loose and rotate in its slot locking up the revolver "tighter than old Dick's hatband."

They sent out a warning complete with drawings and instructions on exactly how to properly remove the sideplate and the trigger stop. After that, four inch and under revolvers never had them, although some frames still had the slot. The trigger stop was re-designed so it would not lock up the revolver if it did lock up, but it was thereafter only put on 6 inch revolvers and longer barrels, but not on anything destined for police type work.

The best procedure is to get that part out if you have any revolver with one that is used for self-defense.

I may be wrong as it has been mid-70s since I have seen the two side by side, but I think the picture of the trigger stop removed in Post 7 is the re-designed one, the bad one being more elongated without the sharp tip that you see in the picture in Post 7.

Hi:
In the era 1978-1980 Smith and Wesson sent all LEO Agencies a notice that recommended trigger stops be taken out of all S&W Service Revolvers. I was the Armorer for several Departments and this task was assigned to me. I also cleaned the internals while I had the revolvers stripped. The only inside desk duty I wasn't able to dodge.

The slot on my 586 is empty, and my 10 doesn't have a slot.
One less thing to worry about.

Maybe you could sell them to Numrich.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

Hi All,
Apologies for revising this more-than-a-year-old thread, but it pretty much reflects my question...pretty much. I'm looking at purchasing a real nice 17-4 with docs and box and the docs indicate "Trigger...S&W grooving with an adjustable trigger stop." I don't see an adjustable trigger stop on the gun. I am looking for an overtravel screw, is that the same thing? Unfortunately the critical picture posted previously in this thread is nolonger available. Can anyone enlighten me or provide more info.
Many thanks...

Here is a photo of a 19-3 and 19-4, one has the trigger stop/screw and the other doesn't. You can enlarge this a bit to see the difference. The stop itself is the little nub.

I always remove the trigger stop on all my SD and carry guns "period"! If I have one come buy me I educate the person about it and if they say they use it as any sort of social work gun, I highly recommend if not tell them I'd coming out. It's not worth the chance and it does nothing to collector value, just keep parts in small bag.

In the mid 70's our department also received the memo from S&W to remove the trigger stop and sent us replacement stops. The old one (kind of oblong and smooth) was removed and the new one (bigger on one end kind of "boomerang" shaped with grooves on one side) was installed. They sent us enough replacements for duty and off duty revolvers. I still have an old (removed) and a new replacement one. And, if I remember correctly, the small screw holding the stop in is the same size as the rear sight leaf screw.

Yes screw for rear sight is same, I think I even have a copy of the memo in one of my service manuals.

Thank you very much for that Stu. That was very helpful. I took the cover plate off my 19-4 and it looks exactly like the bottom picture. No nub and no screw. So I suppose this is what is going on with the 17-4 as well.

So now my next question is...where can I obtain these nubs and screws? I am just doing range shooting ( in Canada, you either collect or target shoot, we are not trusted to defend our own lives with firearms) so I would like to install these...assuming that is, that they can be adjusted to eliminate over-travel.

Okay, scratch that last posting...I read in some other posts how I can make a trigger stop so I guess I just need to find a screw somewhere.