Will S&W punch a 610 out to use 10mm Mag? If so price and do I just send the cylinder? Thanks!

S&W will not

Send the cylinder to one of the shops that specializes in that work like Pinnacle

S&W will only perform a modification that has previously been subjected to extensive testing. So, they won't install a 357 Magnum cylinder on a model 67 because that combination was never officially "tested" and they won't modify a 610 to a wildcat caliber that was never in their catalog.

OK thanks for the info! While I have your attention. Does reaming to 10mm mga create a problem shooting .40 or 10mm??? I have seen many that do it, but a couple said the tolerance is incorrect.

It will require the .40 to be fired with moonclips.....

Excellent it requires moonclips already. Does the 10mm Mag use the moonclips? Are the .40 and 10mm mag moon clips the same? Sorry for the noob questions new to revolvers

Actually, you can shoot the .40s without the moonclips right now, once you lengthen the chamber for the 10mm you will then need moonclips for the 40 to work, but not for the 10...

And yes the moonclips would be the same for both.

What shovelwrench said. I concur.
RJ

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Feet on the ground

You guys are awesome. Couple more noob questions (hopefully the last) If purchasing one and reeming it, should I worry about fluted or non fluted cylinder? And does 6.5" matter over 5" in the mag round? It would be used for hunting, so the lighter the better, the more knock down the better and it would most likely have a scope or some sort of optic.

Then it was done wrong

Where are these threads? Can you provide a link

The three cartridges are externally identical except for length. So the same moonclip works.

40 S&Ws can not be reliably fired from the 310/610 revolver with out moon clips. You might get lucky and set a few off but this is not how the firearm is designed to work.

I thought they were all identical except for length. But figured I would make sure I wasnt overlooking something.

I cannot provide a link. This is a conversation in a f...book group. I was giving my opinion as to why a wheel gun is better than a 1911 in 10mm. My argument was the extra calibers, and the fact 10mm is really suited for hunting unless your Ted Nugent Especially the 10mm Mag. My other point was the pre lock 610 will/should increase in value while the 1911 will only decrease. Now to just get my hands on one for a reasonable price

Maybe this isnt the place to ask, but what models of the 610 are pre lock? 610 and 610-2? If so what changed to make the 610-2? And why is the price so much higher for the 610 than a -2 model or maybe the first answer will cover this as well?

Don't worry about the lock on the 610, the revolver is much too heavy for it to ever be a concern. As for the looks, you are trying to locate a model 610 and with the limited selection available you really shouldn't remove about 1/2 the total made from consideration.

I also don't think you should bother with that 10mm Magnum conversion, it will make reloading an absolute requirement and those cases are nearly impossible to find. IIRC Starline produces a small run of the 10m magnum cases about once every 3 years. Set yourself up for reloading the standard 10mm and with careful powder selection you can get loads that are perfectly suitable for hunting Whitetails and smaller game. I'll also point out that Double Tap and Buffalo Bore also sell some rather strong 10mm loads that any reloader would find a bit challenging to match that are geared specifically to Handgun Hunting.

Actually, they are designed to fire with or without moonclips, just like the .45, and 9mm in a revolver they headspace off the case mouth, not the moonclip.....

Shovelwrench, I think you are confusing the 10mm Magnum with the 10mm Auto. The 610 is chambered for the 10mm Auto and will also fire the shorter .40 S&W cartridge. In factory configuration it will fire the 10mm Auto without clips and the .40 with clips. Once rechambered for the 10mm Magnum, you will need clips for the .40 and the 10mm Auto.
I tend to agree with the fellow who says not to bother with the rechambering. With full house loads, the 10mm Magnum would make my 610 almost as powerful as my Model 29, but probably not as versatile. On the other hand, I am a tinkerer, and we all know where that leads! Good luck to the OP.

You are correct sir

Let's revise any auto round shorter then what its chambered for will require moon clips.......

Leaving it 10mm would then put me back into the 1911. I would have no use for a revolver in just 10mm. I only considered it for larger game, versatility, and the 10mm Mag. I own .40 and .45 handguns. The .40 option and the larger game like bears was my reason for picking. Otherwise I can get something from world war Z like the 460xvr

Got to call BS here.

You clearly do not understand how a rimless cartridge head spaces in a revolver or you could not be making a statement like that.

S&W designs their modern revolvers that use rimless cases to headspace on the moon clip.

In many instances (9 out of 10) the cartridge that the revolver is chambered for will also head space on the case mouth and thus fire without a moon clip. This is not a feature of design, it is happenstance.

In the scenario that you are portraying where a cartridge significantly shorter than the cartridge the firearm is chambered for is placed in the cylinder and actually fires, this is pure wild luck.

The case mouth of a 40 S&W can not possibly head space properly in a 10MM Auto chamber.

Why don't you read my last reply first, and second SAAMI sets headspace specification, not S&W.

SAAMI has chamber specs but S&W cuts the chambers. I have measured the chambers in a number of 625's. They were all cut ~.015" too deep for the case to headspace correctly off the case mouth.

Too deep and undersize, a great combination.

Weird, my 625 and 940 have never had a FTF without moonclips.....

I can only speak for the 625's but it's usually because the tapered case and undersize chambers do an interference fit thing in the chamber before the case mouth gets down to the ledge it's supposed to headspace against. Gets worse without moonclips if the chambers are reamed to SAAMI spec. Loose rds will chamber deeper resulting in excessive headspace. However with a factory mainspring and strain screw they may still fire.

It isn't hard to measure down to the "step" the cartridge should(?) headspace on to check what I said. I believe if you ask S&W they'll tell you the gun is meant to be fired with moonclips not loose rds unless the loose rds are 45 auto rim.

Sorry not the best picture. Was she worth $1100? Its a dash2 model 6" barrel came with moonclips and 3 sets of grips. In almost perfect cond.

I wouldn't waste the time or money rechambering it. I shoot 10.5gr of Power Pistol with 180gr hollow point. Excellent hunting load, dont shoot it in an semi auto though!

Had a later, 610 I was going to have Bowen convert-- he WOULD NOT do so unless 10MM MAG was added to the barrel to ID it as such-- I never got around to it and sold the gun-- I have about 1000 pcs., of NEW 10MM brass if you ever get in need. I paid $100.00 for it, and that is what I would ask. Just a thought--

I recently acquired a 610 and had also been curious about the 10 mag conversion. I have been reloading for about 20 years and have never been afraid to do a little experimentation. I also love something a little unique. I decided against the conversion because 200 fps doesn't make a whitetail gun into a bear gun. Here's your excuse to get a 629 as well. Maybe even something in 500.
Shooting anything in the 610 without moon clips is not an advantage. It's an incredible pain in the arse.

I am interested. I will send you a PM.

Hate to ask the obvious here, but if you want to hotrod the 10mm, why not just buy a M57/657 instead?

The advantage of the 610 would be the ability to handle hotter 10mm auto loads than a 1911 platform 10mm can, Buffalo Bore has some 10mm loads with hard cast bullets that would be good hunting rounds.

Jim in Iowa

Extraction on a DA revolver would really be a booger without the moonclips no? Reason enough to use them if nothing else.

I converted my 610 to 10 mm magnum. Cost about $100 to do so. Finding the brass at the time wasn't a big deal. I am able to get a little more speed while keeping presure down.

why bother if you dont already have a 610? Just get a M57 and be done with it. Why reduce the value of a 610 with a marginal modification when you can most likely up the performance of the 10mm to the level you seek by seating the bullet out an extra .125 to .150 and bumping up the charge to almost the 10 mag level. The only consideration would be the throat diameter. you can do this and see the results before any permanent mods are made. Revolvers have this advantage where the autos have the length limitations set by the magazines.

I shoot the 10 mag in my Coonan and it is a beast in the un-vented barrel(no cyl gap). I have stroked two 610's and both owners now regret not testing the longer length 10mm auto before having the cylinder reamed, and I have been on the send for spare cylinders ever since.
I shoot the M57's and wouldnt trade them for much of anything.

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Shooter Ready
Standby

geezzuz, I'm gonna have to start paying attention to the dates on these posts. what a waste of electrons.

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Shooter Ready
Standby

I will be more than happy to buy those reduced value 610s

E-mail is in my profile drop me a line

I have a friend who owns a 610 no dash with a 6 1/2" barrel. He wanted a 5" but didn't find one. He loaded his own ammo with Hornady 180 gr XTPs to about 1200 fps and went deer hunting. He reports that load goes completely through most Iowa deer. Going to 10mm Magnum is gilding the lily for most apps.

The S&W 610s will still be running after most 10mm semiautos have cracked up using hot factory ammo. Been there.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

Can anyone who owns a a Smith 610 machined to 10mm magnum comment on the accuracy of the .40 smith and 10mm auto after machining the Smith 610 out to 10mm Magnum.

Thanks Much

It is exactly the same as before lengthening the chambers

Still doesn't sound like the 10 mag is trumping the pedestrian .41 Magnum. Easier to just buy a 57/657, and more performance potential.

Thanks much I sent the cylinder out to get bored. Can't wait to try .40 sw, 10mm auto, and 10mm magnum out.

For clarification: You cannot shoot the .40 S&W without moonclips in a standard S&W 610. They just fall down the cylinder.
The same goes when you have your cylinder reamed to accept 10mm. Magnum. You still cant shoot 40 S&W and you can no longer shoot 10mm without a moonclip. You can however shoot the 10mm. Mag without the moonclip after having it reamed.
The round is stopped by the by the smaller diameter at the front of the cylinder. If you extend that length the round no longer has anything to support it.

I have a brand new 610 stock cylinder and a brand new cylinder that has been reamed to accept 10mm. that proves this.

I’ve been considering this same mod off and on for the last several years. My issue is that I don’t want to ream my original cylinder and I’m having trouble finding the proper second cylinder. I have one of the early first run no dash 610 models and the newer cylinders have a different extractor star and hand style that isn’t compatible. It’s a shame too, because Midwest has them in stock for less than $90.

Smith & Wesson Model 610 Cylinder, 10mm Stainless: MGW

First picture is the extractor star and hand pattern of my 610.
Second picture is from my 657, but it’s the same style as the newer 610 cylinder.

Attached Images

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	88F60706-B790-4F34-B4F4-17E7BCD9CE01.jpg (45.0 KB, 14 views)

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USS Brewton FF1086
SWCA#3597

Accuracy as a 10mm Auto -vs- 10mm Magnum = no difference.

Both boringly accurate.

The 10MAG case has 33.1% more capacity than the 10AUTO.

The 10MAG case has 5.9% less capacity than the 41MAG. (All Starline brass.)

The 10MAG max pressure is 37.5K psi while the 41MAG is 36K psi.

Another plus for the 10MAG is that you have a greater variety of bullet weights available & plenty of jacketed bullet options.

10MAG brass is readily available from Starline, even right now.

A minus point for the 10MAG is that all the jacketed bullets do not have a cannelure so you need to make sure your reloads have good bullet-case tension to avoid jump crimp with the heaviest charges.

I don't have a need to shoot 40S&W or 10AUTO in my 10MAG, but you can with moonclips.

Casual shooting the 10MAG without moonclips is no problem. Empty cases can be flicked out with your fingernail, even hot loads fall right out.

I reamed out the chambers of my 610-3 myself with a reamer from Dave Manson that I originally bought to convert my 4013 to a 1013.

Just take your time & use plenty of cutting oil.

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10mm Auto loads
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Work great for casual/informal shooting
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Waiting for the break of day

Question about bullet creep....does anybody experience that with their 10mm mag, and have to go use a roll crimp?

Shooting heavy cast bullets in 10mm in my 610, I had to use a roll crimp. Could not get sufficient neck tension on cast, some were backing out an 1/8” or more. Can’t imagine 10mm mag not being a worse condition. Granted, the brass had been reloaded a few times.

Quite the zombie thread. But interesting.

Not a chance... Other places will but your value will decrease once you alter a factory gun.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

Mine are loaded a little below 41 Mag 170gr data & I've not had any troubles with bullet jump.

I shoot Zero's 165gr JHP mainly, as well as some of their 180gr JHP, in mine.

I expand the cases as little as possible, if any, and let the bullet do the expanding as much as possible.

If I have a choice I use an expander die with the smaller diameter.

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Waiting for the break of day