I have been having some trouble with the extractor rod loosening up in my stainless, six inch 629, leading to difficulty pushing out the cylinder. I asked a few questions about this in another thread, but I posted it in the wrong section. The guys in there gave me some good advice and I really appreciate it, but I have a few follow up questions and I thought maybe I should post them here rather than bumping the incorrectly placed thread.

I was told that while tightening the extractor rod, I should place a few empty casings in the cylinder. Two questions:

1. Would casings that have been fired be alright, or do I need to purchase never been fired casings?

2. I am planning on filling the cylinder all the way up with empty casings (six) as opposed to just using a few. Is this alright or would I be better off to use less than six? (I ask because a few people in the other thread recommended using two or three empty casings.)

I was also wondering if any of you had used or seen this tool, and if you would recommend it or any other? I know there are ways to tighten the rod with a plyers and leather, but I am a complete beginner and don't trust myself to do any MacGyvering.

EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL | Brownells



Thanks guys.

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Drop me off at Lane Bryant.

1. yes
2. at least 3--6 is fine
3. Good tool

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Science plus Art

Great, thank you.

Just to be sure - yes to already fired casings being ok?

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Drop me off at Lane Bryant.

Yes, fired cases are just fine and probably better than new unfired.

Nice tool - Always forget to order one when ordering from Brownell's (actually one of each size). I usually use the chuck on my drill press to remove them - has always worked well and never leaves marks.

+1 for the drill press chuck. It works very well even when they are very tight. The cases in the charge holes are to support the extractor star so that you don't shear off the two locating pins.
Stu

That is the best but that means leaving the kitchen table to walk out into the shop...

I've seen extractor rod tools but don't see the need for one. I use a wooden clothespin clamped in a vice to hold the extractor rod and it's always worked fine.

Just my $.02, but if you are going to buy a tool, buy the Power model, it will work on all different sizes.
UNIVERSAL EXTRACTOR ROD WRENCH | Brownells

And whatever you do, Klein, NO LOCKTIGHT! EVER in an ejector rod system. You will NEVER(almost!) be able to take it apart again. Watch how parts are assembled in the cyclinder when you take the rod out, clean, and then put it all back to gether w/ a touch of oil on operating surfaces and threads. Use a correct wrench and padded vise jaws and tighten up that rod. DON'T over tighten, they will strip! If you do it right, no more loosen up. Easy fix.

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LEO, Instr, Armorer, Gov's 20

AND be careful not to loose the extractor rod collar if it falls out. BTDT.

Stu

I have the older version of the tool you listed. Mine was made by George Wessinger. It works, but if the rod is really tight it is tough to get it tight enough not to slip.

What I use now days is the Brownells Super Hold Vise Jaw Pads link. I keep them in my vise all the time and there is absolutely no slip when using them. I just put the rod in between them, tighten and then turn the cylinder. You can use both hands if necessary (or you dare) on the cylinder. The rod will not turn when set up like this.

I have a drill press, but always feared it might leave marks. The crushing force to provide sufficient metal to metal contact also concerned me. I do realize lots of folks do it this way every day.

You may have the same version as the one I use . . .





If so, be careful to use the "S" end for Smith and "R" for Ruger. Using the R end on a Smith rod will cause it to slip. I don't know how the new ones are marked.

Russ

Thanks but you have the Power Custom tool.

The Wessinger is very similar to the picture at the top of the post. This is what I have:

It's easy to over-engineer things sometimes. Simpler is better....and cheaper.

Attached Images

clothespin.jpg (136.9 KB, 90 views)

I agree nice pic.

I saw a tool being sold by a guy at a gun show a while back-- it was a small vice-grip with a nice little clamp arrangement tig-welded onto the jaws for holding the extractor rod. Very nice, but over-engineered IMHO.

Looks like a good idea, think I'll try it on my 396NG which is really tight. (We haven't had a clothes line in many years but I think I remember seeing some pins hiding in a box in the attic. Dryers pretty much made them obsolete. )

If they're REALLY TIGHT they go in my drill press chuck. It's the only thing that will hold the rod well enough (without marring it) if they are REALLY TIGHT. Must be a chuck that tightens with a chuck key not a hand tighten one.

After trying all my usual ways to loosen this extractor I decided to try some of the ideas here.

I tried the clothespin technique first. No matter how tight I tightened the vise though, it slipped. I roughed it (clothespin) up some but it still wouldn't budge, just kept slipping.

I don't have a drill with a keyed chuck anymore but decided to try it with my biggest keyless chuck drill, just to say I tried. I put the extractor rod in it & tightened it firmly, but not the hardest I could, turned the cylinder and VOILA, it turned & it was finally free! No scratches either. I'm sure the extra surface area/tension from the chuck was the deciding element.

So good ideas guys, thanks!