Just got a 19-3 2.5" in very nice condition. Have not fired it yet. SA trigger pull is fine. DA pull is fine as long as I do it rapidly. If I pull the trigger back slowly in DA sometimes it catches and stops everything. Then if I let off the trigger and pull again it will usually fire. Ideas? I know how to take them apart and reassemble so I could probably make the repair if it is not too complex.

Several possible fixes.

First and easiest is detail strip it, clean, oil, reassemble and check; like a "reboot" this is the least invasion first approach that has chance of success.

Next thing I'd look at is the rebound slide spring; might be a too light aftermarket one, or might have been clipped too much by a previous owner. Easy and cheap to replace.

Start with these and report results; if no improvement, we'll keep with the suggestions...

Did a detail strip and clean (wasn't very dirty) but still have same issue. If I leave the cylinder open and push the cylinder release and fire it, it seems to work fine. Close the cylinder and DA fire it maybe 20 times and it catches, hammer and trigger both bind. Let off the trigger and pull again and everything releases and fires. It may do this 2 or 3 times in a row and then fire 10 or so times correctly then bind again. Since it only does this with the cylinder closed I have checked for the usual cylinder binding issues; cylinder face is clean, forcing cone is clean, ejector rod is tight and not bent, clean under the ejector, cylinder does not rub against forcing cone. Can this be something with the hand and ratchet. This gun shows very little wear. Ideas appreciated

Some guns will hang up similar to what your are describing when the trigger is not released all the way forward after firing. It is hard to duplicate. Be sure the trigger is all the way forward before pulling it rearward again. If that is not the issue, then someone better at analyzing the action without handling the gun will have to chime in.

__________________
Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I have a mod 28-2 that exhibited the same symptoms. It turned out to be excessive end shake. Frank Glen got it running like a champ

Check to see if the cylinder stop is being withdrawn before the hand is applying pressure to the extractor. I have seen on some revolvers where the hand starts trying to the cylinder before cylinder stop has dropped sufficiently to allow cylinder rotation. The result is pretty obvious.

Upon further examination and study, I would like to know if it is possible for the cylinder stop to cause the binding. While closely observing the cylinder stop from the right side view; it appears that as the trigger pull starts the stop drops back into the frame slot and then quickly pops part of the way back up (does not stay down) barely into the cylinder notch and stops all movement thus locking everything up. If I let off the trigger and pull again sometimes it fires and sometimes it stays locked. If I hold the pressure on the trigger when it is in this position and then try to turn the cylinder by hand, it looks like the cylinder notch jumps over the edge of the protruding stop and advances with a jerk. While observing this jam with the sideplate off, if I use a screwdriver to move the cylinder stop just a tiny bit it moves out of the way enough to let the cylinder advance. Can the cylinder stop be causing the problem or I am I missing something else? I should mention that I just acquired this gun and don't know its history. Learning a lot about revolver operation!

1. Trigger return spring (too many coils cut off/inadequate power)
2. Mainspring (not factory/ too weak)
3. Mainspring Tension Screw (too short)
4. Hand (no spring pressure or a rough spot in hand window)
5. Trigger (metal removed from front of trigger with inadequate length to engage cylinder locking bolt)
6. Side Plate ( not fitting level or screws put in wrong side plate holes)

***causes likely from a "Bubba" trigger/action job

Thanks jimmyj, I am beginning to wonder about your #5 - trigger. This trigger is a smooth combat. I wonder if it could have come from the factory that way?

I've had a cylinder stop spring binding, causing similar symptoms. It would hang the trigger, but releasing the trigger and trying again usually cycled.

While I'm not an expert on 19's I suspect that it is a replacement as the smooth triggers weren't made by S&W till the begining of the stainless age in the early 80's and if it's a color cased hammer as it should be, in the early 90's.

Good Morning:
#5-When "Bubba" gets carried away at the kitchen table with his stones/files after a "Six Pack", Bubba has been known to stone/file the front portion of the trigger front spur that engages the cylinder locking bolt, thus the spur doesn't keep engagement with the cylinder locking bolt though out the entire trigger pull/squeeze.=Problem.
***if the trigger is smooth, it is a "Replacement" as other posters has stated. The trigger might have not been fitted, thus your problem.

Thanks jimmyj. Going to investigate that next. I have a mod 10 some other K frames that I might try to borrow some parts from to help with the process of elimination

Hi:
The older S&W Revolvers hammers/triggers were hand fitted.
You might consider using both the hammer and trigger from another "K" Frame for testing.

While that can indeed work, the frames are made to tolerances and it's possible that a set out of another revolver may not fit the tolerances of your model 19. So don't be discouraged if it doesn't work and keep trying it or find a NOS trigger that has never been in a gun and have it fitted.

I just went through that exact same problem recently with a model 66-2.Sent it to S&W and they replaced the Cylinder stop.

__________________
JR

Well its been interesting and a great learning experience. Thanks so much to all of you for your input. Special thanks to jimmyj for pointing me in the direction of the Bubba trigger job. He was right. Ole Bubba strikes again! I pulled the trigger out of my mod 10 truck gun and put it in the 19. I couldn't believe it - it worked great! Then I put Bubba's trigger in the mod 10, and sure enough the 10 has the problem now. Dry fired the 19 numerous times and it worked fine, so I had to take it out to the farm for a trial. I have never fired it before. I really liked the carry feel in a black widow holster. Fired about 60 rounds without any issues, mostly DA. Very smooth and more accurate than my ability. Always wanted a 19 snubby as I am a mod 19 fan. Love the feel in hand. The target in the pic is a good example of most of the groups it shot with 38 specials. No sight adjustment yet. Now I need to find another trigger. Thanks again guys.

Attached Images

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Hi:
"K" Frame Trigger:
1. Smith and Wesson Customer Service-1-800-331-0852
2. Forum "Accessories For Sale"
3. E-Bay #251370405432