I just picked up an early Sixties 28-2, and there's some lead in the throats. Never really had this issue before. So is any on brand of lead solvent better than another?

These days, I just use a little "Chore-Boy" (spelling?) copper pot cleaner wrapped around an old cleaning brush. Works well, similar to a Lewis Lead Remover, and does not hurt the rifling. Much faster and more effective than scrubbing with just a solvent.

Larry

I use Kano Kroill let it soak awhile and Lewis lead remover never tried Chore-Boy same idea just cheaper.

Lewis lead remover for me.

I favor the Kano Kroil soak then Chore Boy copper pot scrubber around a worn out bronze bore brush. Cheap and very effective.

One caveat- make certain the pot scrubbers are 100% solid copper! There are a bunch of cheap copper washed steel versions that will mess-up your gun!

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Virtue,Liberty & Independence

Had a Lewis lead remover back in the eighties and thought it was a pain.Read about the chore-boy trick and tried it.No idea where the Lewis is now.

How are you applying chore boy copper scrub pad material to the chambers and bore?

For lead in the throats, I find the Lewis Lead remover the best. You can but it at Brownells.

For leading in the groove, I soak the barrel in Ed's Red (Kroil is about the same) and use the Chore Boy (100% copper) wrapped around a worn bore brush. It just comes out in flakes.

Wrap a piece around a worn bore brush and give it a little scrubbing and the lead shavings will fall out.

I soak the chambers and bore with the old standby Hoppes 9. If the leading is not severe, use the copper chore boy trick, if need more the Lewis Lead Remover does it. Been wanting to mix up some Ed's Red, but haven't gotten the ingredients all together yet.
Dave
SWCW#2778

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mr mom
Fire Chief, Retired

Here it is. I made mine without the Lanolin. link

Been using the Lewis Lead Remover for 35+ years. Always works like a charm with zero damage. It's quick, easy, inexpensive and gets the job done right. I actually just used it moments prior to logging on tonight to clean up my M19 cylinder. After shooting a few hundred 38 Spl's. out of its .357 magnum cylinder I like to clean the lead that accumulates at the front of the cylinder charge holes.

Bought mine in the late '70's. Never had to use anything else.

I use both the Lewis Lead Remover and Chore Boy.

And Lead-Out patches by Outers.

Yes...watch out for copper-plated but steel scrub pads!

I use the Lewis for the forcing cones which is extremely important.

I will also use the Lewis on the throats of the chambers in the cylinder.

I use the Chore Boy first on the bore and if it does not do the job then the Lewis tool.

If needed I follow through with Lead Out patches on the bore to remove traces.

DO NOT use the Lead Out patches on nickel, or plated metal, it will remove the plating.

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Have guns...will shoot'em.

I have a Lewis Lead Remover, but have not used it since I discovered M-PRO-7 gel cleaning solvent. I soak whatever needs a heavier cleaning, and everything comes out clean as a whistle. I have used it successfully in old military rifles that came to me with the bore coated in copper, and lead. Cleans it right up.

Best Wishes,
Tom

I had the opposite result with the MPro-7. Thought it was totally overrated and did no better than Hoppes.

I shoot cast lead extensively for competition & range work. If you hand load your lead, try Alox followed by mica to really minimize leading. As an answer, I use Hoppes "Overnight" overnight & it seems to make the smeared lead "bloom" & it pretty much brushes right off. Hope this helps

M-Pro-7 works fine for me. I use the spray, and let it sit for at least five minutes before I start brush scrubbing. It's simple. It's easy. Just follow the directions.

Yea, I use a .41 caliber brass brush on a cleaning rod. OR, you could put a brass pipe screen (as in a tobacco smoking pipe screen) over the end of a cleaning rod with a patch already on it - aka; "Lewis Lead Remover". I guess the 'Lewis' version has a rubber thingy instead of an ordinary patch over the end of the rod/tool. But my version doesn't cost $31 plus freight

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But then, what do I know?

^^^Chuck nailed this one exactly^^^^

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Soak the cylinder in Ballistol overnite. Then use the Lewis Lead remover. Clean the gun with Ballistol after shooting, and it wil get easier and cleaner every time you shoot and clean it. I have been using Ballistol for years and it works. It really cleans up black powder firearms. You can get Ballistol at Brownell's. Try it you will see! DW

I have had excellent results with Shooter Choice lead remover. Dean

Lewis Lead Remover will get the job done in a hurry and no messy liquids.
Only method I use now.

Kroil and 0000 extra fine steel wool wrapped around loose fitting bore brush. Be very careful around crown area of barrel. I insert brush from forcing cone then scub bore , then exit muzzle crown.

Yea, that will remove lead but that method will come back to haunt you in the future IMHO. In the Bore a softer than steel material and a non shredding abrasive should be used. That is why the Lewis Lead remover screen is NOT made of steel, but a softer brass material than the barrel, but STILL harder than the Lead.

The fine steel wool will also "lightly" polish the forcing cone area and bore of new guns. One recent magazine article recommended using it to remove leading from barrel.