Went to a local range with my wife this morning to shoot her little Sig P238. Set up on lane 9, she loaded a mag, lined up to shoot and "click". That's not the sound I was expecting . I got the person out front and we looked at the gun, took it apart, re-loaded and "click". He said the firing pin was sticking, so came home and disassembled and cleaned/oiled. I had read that Frog Lube was causing this type of failure, so I quit using it. I had previously thought the stuff was great, but after reading several similar stories I decided to check the rest of my guns, starting with my Maverick 88 pump shotgun...it would not even pump! Long story short, I spent the better part of the day cleaning seven firearms. I don't want any of my friends on here to mess up their guns. Your results my vary, and yes I followed the instructions, and yes I know not to put stuff in with the firing pin. I know, I know. This is free advice so take it for what it's worth...but please check your firearms if you have ever used Frog Lube on them. Mine had set for about six months in a safe so I'm sure that didn't help. I wish you guys all the best! B

Was going to order some tonight but now I probably won't. Been using CLP for years and I like it. Use M-1A lube all my auto slides and does a good job. Stays put. And I don't put no stinking motor oil on any firearm that I own. Too many additives. Motor oil is for motors-not guns. JMTCW.

SSG Ret.
USA

I had the same problems as bassonear

Thanks for the info!

I have heard that it still makes a good salad dressing.

Frogs is for EATIN'
everyone knows that I thought,
and PIG FAT is for Lubin'

__________________
NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

M PRO-7 is what I use on everything including my sharpening hones.

__________________
S&W Accumulator

I think you are supposed to wipe the excess off of all the parts before you reassemble the gun.

You know what? I've heard lots of people raving about Frog Lube this and Frog Lube that...like it's God's gift to shooters.

I look at it this way. It's just another product by just another company that claims to do everything better than every other similar product...but I freely admit I've never tried the stuff. Never felt the need to, that's all.

Is Frog Lube going to improve my accuracy? In a word, no.

I've been using Hoppe's since 1969...both the solvent and the gun oil. Never a problem, no matter how long the guns sat up. Revolvers, semi-autos, shotguns, rifles, whatever...no problems. Is Hoppe's going to improve my accuracy? Of course it isn't. But it damn sure keeps my guns clean and in working order. And Hoppe's has been around since when...1903 or something like that? I figure they must know a little something about cleaning guns. And I'll bet they have a customer base that's unrivaled in the industry. Let me know if you ever find a gun shop that doesn't sell Hoppe's.

After forty-five years, why change from something I definitely know works? If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Besides, I like the way it smells.

But my great Grandfather said he used Frog Lube on ALL his guns...

Oh wait... no, it was regular old Motor oil. Scratch that.

All these "special lubes" are snake oil.

I've shot so many tens of thousands of rounds and do not use anything "special"

I'm glad you got your stuff all straightened out without any huge issue. Like NEEDING the arm to fire and it wouldn't.

I'll stick to what is tried and true.

When you show me an oil that has been used a hundred years, I'll try it.

The rest are overpriced snake oil.

Thats scary to hear, glad you were not "in need" when it happened. I stick to Hoppe's & LCP. I also forgot I use a little Remington Oil form time to time.

What part of the frog do they use to make this elixer anyway?

I have had similar luck with FrogLube.

In short, it is terrible in cold weather and gets very gummy and sticky --- pretty much the opposite of what you want. I got it in the trigger group of a shotgun and it robbed enough momentum from the hammer to cause frequent misfires. It got in the striker channel of my Kimber Solo and caused light strikes and other problems. I did follow directions and heated the parts, applied FrogLube, and wiped clean. Still didn't work right.

Got it out of both guns with brake cleaner and went back to CLP, Italian Gun Grease, and MPro7 for pretty much everything. Little bit of synthetic grease on pistol rails.

Been thinking of trying it-- now now, will stick with my BREAKFREE

Add me to the bunch you will stick with CLP. Works well in all temps and no rust problems either. Use other stuff for most cleaning though.

Long about 1982 I was at summer camp at Camp Shelby and was told to clean up the motor pool before we went home. We'll guess what-gallons of Breakfree CLP. The sweet smelling kind. Still using it. Oh happy day.

TOO much of a good thing? over lubed IMO. I'm a believer it doesn't really matter, as much, what you use as how you use it. A little goes a long way, 2-4 drops on a patch down the bore, then the patch does the rest of the gun. Another dry patch down the bore & a dry rag to remove the excess from everywhere else, will leave a fine film that works well & doesn't attract much dirt/dust. Long term storage gets a heavier dose. BUT I haven't tried it either.

I used FrogLube on my Kimber 1911, with in a week barrel had rust stains. I then noticed rust stains on the slide where it has been handled mostly. FrogLube is in the garbage now.

I was an armorer in the army just when they started getting into the Breakfree thing. It was a very poor lube for machineguns, and we went to the motor pool and got moly grease to lube the locking lugs and bolt raceways on our belt-fed machineguns. Now a whole generation of shooters think that Breakfree is the only thing you can use. Quite frankly, its not a bad lube, but it started the whole "magic oil" movement. These days, as before I use either a 30 or 90 weight synthetic oil depending on the application, or GI rifle grease. Oil is oil.

Take my word for it, you don't want to know.

What's the difference between a frog and a toad, and who cares, anyway?

__________________
Why, I aughta.....

FrogLube has treated me well for over a year, but I apply sparingly to any parts that can get gummed up. I have even applied it to antique firearms with great results in terms of cleaning gunk from 70 and 80 years ago.

I will not say it was operator error and I also will not fault the product for the above negative results, but too much of a good thing can be bad. Hope you enjoy what ever you decide to use and it treats you well.

__________________
US Army 1997-2003

I like CLP but I also use Hoppe's. I also enjoy RemOil and have had good success with good 'ole Lubri-Plate in the silver and black tubes.

Lots of good stuff out there.

Kinda like what's the best bottled water? In the end its all water.

__________________
Un-Reconstructed Southerner

I posted in another "lube" thread that most of the USMC machinegunners ended up buying LSA on their own, or used automotive grease on their guns. CLP burned right off.

Just goes to show ya......... some of these new fangled things are just not good. I stick with the tried and true with just about everything.

Good storynce upon a time....blah blah blah....froglube.....blah blah blah.....problems......then used eezox.....blah blah blah......happily ever after.the end

I switched to FrogLube for the WAF, she did not like the smell of anything else. So far I have not had an issue and the first holster I bought dropped my pistol in the snow and I picked it up and it sill shot fine, cold and snow.

I have a friend who has been singing the praises of Frog Lube because a "Navy Seal invented it and it's all natural". I was just nodding my head and not excited enough so next thing I know he gives me some Frog Lube and Frog Grease(?) plus some eye dropper things to apply it. I have used it on my Glock shooter that gets used regularly. I only put a bit on rails and barrel exterior....glad I use it that way. No problems so far.

Most of us tend to over-lube our semiautos, then shoot the excess off. I definitely won't be frog lubing safe queens!

__________________
Bob.
SWCA 1821

I don't get excited about gun oil at all. Really don't care however it's far from "snake oil". I use CLP just because that's what I paid for. In the past I have used Hopes and Frog Lube and never had problems with any. I even used trans fluid. Motor oil and trans fluid works but it's not a great idea. They get thick in the cold and attract dirt and dust. They also tend to flow easier. No matter how much I wipe off, at the end of the day of carrying a firearm I can see and feel streaks from where it slowly started to run.

The funny thing is I've heard people say how terrible CLP is. That it gunks up and permanently binds to the inside, destroying barrels and everything else. I have never seen that but i have never had this problem with frog lube either

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I used frog lube and did not like the results. As they say, it penetrates the pours of the metal and when applied to a warm surface, does a better job. Well, my experience is that when the gun heats up after firing 100 rnds or so, it begins to oose back out and collect carbon etc.
I now use to coat my garden tools. It does clean them up and keep them rust free.
For my guns I am back to Breakfree CLP.

Mil-Comm TW25B-If it is good enough for the Germans at Sig sauer it is good enough for me.

Tri-Flow-On all my Revolvers,Never had a problem.I also use the Mil-Comm on sear surfaces and on the Hammer/Trigger pins as well as the Rebound slide.

I used frog lube on my model 36 and it got warts.

M&P22/Frog/lube

....not surprised

Never had any problems with Frog Lube. Best bore cleaner for copper hat I have found. Results,like opinions, will vary.

Hmm...doesn't do that if you clean it all off and keep it out of the striker channel...I have never had any problems with it on any of our glocks, sigs, S&W or STI. But everyone has a different experience

I use and recommend BreakFree.

I have been using it for many, many years.

I still have a couple of competition guns that I used in 1967. I have not fired them since around 1976.

Every few years I take them out and "change their oil".

Never any rust, never any thick, gummy residue.

The only time I have had trouble with ANY oils is when I have used TOO much or if I used WD-40 for long term storage OR if I used an oil or grease at a temperature LOWER than its specification recommended.

Use the product in the amount and in the application it is spec'ed for.

Not for nothing, but I personally find that a lot (the majority) of so called "GREEN PRODUCTS" don't work nearly as well as the old "BAD STUFF" does ,weather we are talking guns or anything else. Once in awhile there comes a real good one, but most are probably just trying to capitalize on the GREEN thing.

I use slip2000 with great success.

froglube is a great protectant, horrible lubricant. it gets sticky when it gets cold, or when you run your guns hard.

The whole CLP thing came about as a result of the military switching from the M-14 to the M-16. Originally we used LSA which turned out to be too thick for the M-16 and caused many malfunctions. CLP was placed in use as a light weight lubricant for the tighter tolerances of the M-16. It was not designed for machine guns which require a much thicker lubricant like LSA.

__________________
Retired Marine Gunny

Ballistol has been around a long time and does a fantastic job cleaning and protecting. Wouldn't use anything else.

Last night I kissed my 4 oz bottle of Froglube, which after 4 months use still has about 3.5 oz remaining.



Dang if this morning it didn't turn into a bottle of CLP-4. WOW!



JUST KIDDING!

__________________
Take your time, fast. J.Hughes

Like another poster said - try Slip 2000
I use the standard Slip 2000 on my guns for its non-attraction to dust/sand and water displacement. It works well for me from Sigs, to AR15s.

And, it mil-spec requirements, I dont know if Froglube does...

I have used frog lube on the rails of my semi autos works very well may be slickest lube I have used. But I am careful not to put too much on too much of anything except money is not always a good thing.

__________________
Len

For the life of me, I just do not understand what is so wrong with Hoppes No. 9 solvent and Break Free CLP. They are long proven, don't gum up actions, and these new "miracle" potions do not save any time or effort in the cleaning process.

I learned my lesson with WD-40 back in the 70s, when it had become a popular solution for LE armories who had begun using it as both a cleaner and a lubricant. The Missouri State Highway Patrol had an incident where a trooper, lucky to be alive, attempted to shoot a suspect and his Model 66 went "click" instead of "bang."

Test results showed the WD-40 had gummed up the action, thereby "cushioning" the fall of the hammer enough to prevent ignition of the primer. MSHP put an article in its little newsletter/journal instructing all personnel to cease use of WD-40. I went to check my revolvers, and sure enough - it took a considerable effort to clean out the gummed up mess.

I went back to ordinary Hoppes No. 9 and the old can of "real" gun oil (you remember when it came in those little rectangular cans with the little red swivel applicator on top and the can made that little clicking/slurping noise when you squeezed it, don't you?).

I was so alarmed by that experience that I waited 10 years after Break Free was adopted by the military before giving it a try, and only did it then after making sure there had been no complaints of gumming up the actions.

Attached Images

Gun oil - Outers vintage can.jpg (4.3 KB, 242 views)

[QUOTE=shawn mccarver;137802856]For the life of me, I just do not understand what is so wrong with Hoppes No. 9 solvent and Break Free CLP. They are long proven, don't gum up actions, and these new "miracle" potions do not save any time or effort in the cleaning process.



No question sometimes the old ways were better but if we stick strictly with that logic we would still be using a bow and arrow!

__________________
Len

Frogs is good eatin'. Toads, not so much.

Russ

Right now I'm using Slip 2000 EWL for oil to try it out. I'd like to try their grease in my M1s but my local purveyor can't get the grease. I guess I'll have to break down and order some from the Amazons. This is in lieu of Remoil, Hoppes or 10 weight non-detergent motor oils and wither white lithium grease or an ancient tube of Shell brand all-purpose grease (when I can find it here in the house. It seems to move and hide now and again).

Russ

Been using Hoppes for over 40 years without any problems. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. No reason to change.