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Old 03-30-2014, 04:50 AM
BigBill BigBill is offline
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Default Main Spring & Rebound Spring reduced tention

I just received these new reduced power springs from Wolf gun springs. My question is, is there a setting on the main spring t
ention screw? Or do adjust it so it functions then readjust it at the range for reliability and dependability?

Are all the orginal main springs flat? My point if the spring I'm removing has the cupped center and it's similair to the wolf spring I'm about to install then this spring has been changed already?

I did notice when I cleaned and lubed my m27-2 I had the spring tention screw adjusted too light. The trigger used in single action made a hollow type noise just before the sear locked the trigger back.
I adjusted the tention screw a tad tighter and the noise went away. I figure the spring wasn't tentioned enough.

So is there a visual measurable setting on the tention screw? Or do we just make it flush to the frame.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:47 AM
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Mainspring screw should be turned tight. If the original mainspring you removed is cupped/ribbed, more than likely it is a Wollf. All S&W springs are flat.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:22 AM
michaelnel michaelnel is offline
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My 629-6 Stealth Hunter came from the factory with a ribbed mainspring, but it is heavier tension than the Wolff mainspring I replaced it with. The original spring may have been sourced from Wolff, but it was definitely heavier.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:30 AM
jack the toad jack the toad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLYDE View Post
Mainspring screw should be turned tight. If the original mainspring you removed is cupped/ribbed, more than likely it is a Wollf. All S&W springs are flat.
+1
I don't recall seeing a ribbed factory main spring and yes, the screw should be screwed all the way.
As am I'm sure you're probably aware, some will file the length of the screw once they've decided where it needs to be for lightened pull but still remain reliable.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:16 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLYDE View Post
All S&W springs are flat.
No they're not. Some S&Ws have Wolff reduced power springs as original equipment. I'm not sure if they're only in PC or Pro series revolvers or are used more widely. There's a S&W part number for the Wolff spring.

Last edited by tomcatt51; 03-30-2014 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:26 PM
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If you send a gun into the PC shop for a Master Action Job it will return with the ribbed Wolf spring installed. Possible that some new PC guns are coming so equipped. I don't know. On the MAJ I believe a longer main spring screw is fitted to insure reliable ignition. I've had a few done and this is how they were returned. Zero ignition problems and a nice smooth action. I don't know if the Wolf spring is utilized on the other action jobs offered by the PC shop. I keep the standard OEM springs, both rebound and main, in all of my other guns.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcatt51 View Post
No they're not. Some S&Ws have Wolff reduced power springs as original equipment. I'm not sure if they're only in PC or Pro series revolvers or are used more widely. There's a S&W part number for the Wolff spring.
Tom,
I posted prior to seeing your post. I'd say at this point you are most likely right. As I posted the Wolf spring is used in the MAJ by the PC shop. Surely not surprised if it now coming standard in some of the offered PC guns.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLYDE View Post
On the MAJ I believe a longer main spring screw is fitted to insure reliable ignition.
The reduced power Wolff spring can require a longer strain screw. They frequently get bad mouthed here (*** spring etc) when just a longer strain screw was needed.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:04 PM
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The reduced power Wolff spring can require a longer strain screw. They frequently get bad mouthed here (*** spring etc) when just a longer strain screw was needed.
Agree 100%. Quite awhile back when the reduced power Wolf's became available. Having to have the new improved fad gadget I installed using the same strain screw. Occasional misfire here and there. Ended up putting the OEM mainspring back in. The PC action job guns with the Wolf are 100% reliable with the longer screw.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:14 PM
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Tom,
I posted prior to seeing your post. I'd say at this point you are most likely right.
My S&W Parts and Accessory Catalog is a 2006 edition (probably time for a new one) and it has the Wolff spring under a S&W part number so they've been doing it a while. Guess it's just not commonly known...
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:37 PM
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Regardless of the spring, it must be "tight", and not backed off to reduce pull weight.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:31 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Regardless of the spring, it must be "tight", and not backed off to reduce pull weight.
Gee, my 8-32 socket set screws work just fine as strain screws without being "tight"...
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:13 PM
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Gee, my 8-32 socket set screws work just fine as strain screws without being "tight"...
I suppose that if you are going to modify your gun then that may work for "you" - but the mainspring screw is designed to be "tight".
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:10 AM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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I suppose that if you are going to modify your gun then that may work for "you" - but the mainspring screw is designed to be "tight".
Yep, and I suppose the gun should remain entirely original and never have the trigger pulled so it doesn't get a turn line on the cylinder...
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:17 PM
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IMHO the Strain Screw should be shortened if you want less tension on the Main Spring, because as others have stated, it SHOULD be tight and if not they eventually will loosen up. Not tightening MAY work short term, but I have seen fellas at my club have FTF when they have backed out a drop. Strain Screws are cheap and readily available so buy a few in case you shorten one too far.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:17 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Strain screws, if not loctited, will loosen even when "properly" tightened. The *** OE stainless ones being the worst offenders.

So, I loctite them and then they don't come loose. Be they "properly" tightened or not. Be they the stock strain screw or a much better quality (grade 8) socket set screw. I have no idea why that is made out to be such a big deal.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:51 PM
BigBill BigBill is offline
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I think I better test this one gun before changing the springs on two others.
I'm thinking since moly makes things move slicker with less friction between the moving parts the reduced power springs should work ok.

Between being lubed with moly and the reduced power springs installed the s&w action feels smoother than the action on my colt python.

Last edited by BigBill; 03-31-2014 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:05 PM
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The "Big Deal" is if you want a revolver that works reliably as it was designed by S&W.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:47 PM
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The "Big Deal" is if you want a revolver that works reliably as it was designed by S&W.
Mine do, with a much nicer trigger pull than they're delivered with...
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:06 PM
Bearbait in NM Bearbait in NM is offline
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I am new to S&W revolver tinkering, but not new to home gunsmithing. I recently purchased a 625PC and went through this process. Tom helped greatly.

With that said, I can add a couple of points. My gun from the PC did come with a reduced Wolff hammer spring. I was able to confirm by replacing with a purchased Wolff, and the trigger weight was identical with either spring. My gun is SS, and came with the tension screw backed out I believe from the factory, as the gun was new. My SS screw snugged will back out when firing, without loctite.

As to the question of design, I tend to think as a minimum the gun going bang every time is surely the base line. In my gun's case, I had significant hammer drag on the rear top left surface as the curved portion dropped into the frame while cocking. I also had a burr on the inside top edge of the side plate that was dragging on the upper right portion of the hammer. I was able to fix these things properly, with stones and hammer shims. Both were robbing my hammer of return speed. I feel confident saying that I am sure S&W did not design the gun to have these type of problems, new.

I can see the point of saying that the gun should be run just as delivered by S&W, but I would also say that to not look and correct problems, or live with a very heavy trigger pull for the sake of having to break in the gun, or have it be reliable, would be a mistake.

Craig
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