Can anyone venture a guess as to how many chambers the Brownells finish reamer can do before it should be replaced?
I would guess this depends on the skill of the user.

I expected a much smoother finish than I have been getting even when the reamer was new.

Thanks,

Frank

I've done more than 10 cylinders, most 10 shot. Surface finish is shiny and smooth.

What are you using for cutting oil? Good cutting oil is essential.

I use Sears Craftsman cutting oil only because it's convenient and comes in small bottles since I don't use much. So far, it's kept my various reamers nice and sharp. I've cut a handful of various cylinders and rifle/shotgun chambers. Haven't had to have a reamer resharpened yet.

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

Using brownells do-drill universal cutting oil.

I am using a 45 dollar Manson reamer, I noticed a clymer for 88,
Maybe I should be using the clymer?

I have the Manson reamer and it's just fine. I have a Clymer reamer for .45 acp revolver (think 625-8) chambers that I'm also happy with.

Are you clearing chips frequently enough? If you don't clean often enough you'll get a lousy surface finish. On 617's I'm cleaning the reamer flutes (clearing chips) at least twice per chamber. They fill up fast.

You did get the finishing reamer , right?
Because they also carry the roughing in one.

When you pull out to clear chips should you turn the reamer as it comes out? I know it should never be turned backwards.

I will need to check the part number on my reamer.

Yes. I turn the reamer pretty much like I do going in, but pulling the reamer out instead as it's being rotated.

Its standard best practice in any machine shop to continue to turn the reamer as you pull it out. You are correct to never turn it backwards.
The question about the finishing/roughing reamer is the most valid one; did you inadvertently purchase the roughing reamer?
If you didn't, it sounds like you dulled it. I bet Manson will resharpen their own reamers and perhaps other makes as well, for a nominal price. If there is a shop in your area that resharpens end mills and cutters they can do reamers too, but it would be helpful to tell them the dimension you want if you know it. They can then tell you if they can sharpen it and meet that dimension. Regards, Bill S

Turns out the edges of my reamer were rough.
Took it to a tool maker friend who showed me the problem under a magnifier and stoned it for me.

I had lent to it my smith who only used it on one revolver, other wise it was new.

Dont know what happened but it is bit of a concern because the cylinders are impossible to find.

I have a couple of no dash guns,one 18,one 17 that are a little sticky on certain ammo.
The one done with my rough reamer works well, it just looks bad.

Hope you aren't still calling him "my smith"...

It's not easy to find guys who work on your guns the way you want them to.
I have learned why it is best to do as much as possible yourself.

Do you think doing the job in a milling machine would be a good idea?
I think a steady flow of oil would be a good deal.

I wouldn't. It's easy to go slow and be carefull reaming by hand. In a verticle mill even a little oops is a trashed cylinder... I've never had a problem reaming chambers or throats by hand. Just clean the chips regularly and make liberal use of the good cutting oil. On the 22s I'm coming out and cleaning the reamer twice plus once more after the final cut before starting in the next chamber.

None of the 22 chambers I've done have looked like they needed polishing. Smooth and shiney surface finish. On the 625s you can see where the reamer cut and didn't cut. On the first one I polished the chambers then I stopped doing that because the surface finish was very good and after a couple a couple cylinders full had been fired you could no longer see where the reamer had cut and not cut.

I have done 6 guns within the past 30 days, and my Manson reamer is as good as it was to start with. Cleaning out the chips two and three times for every chamber is essential as well as Brownells "Do Drill" cutting oil. I use an old toothbrush to clean the cutting residue from the cutter and make sure it is clean, the re-oil with Do Drill before proceeding again. Always turn the cutter by hand and keep turning it always in the same forward direction even while withdrawing it. Blast the cylinder out with gunscrubber or other alternate cleaner, then run the cutter back through the chambers for a final check. Don't lean on it too hard cut in, must medium pressure and let the cutter do the work. And, be sure to blast the entire cylinder and then re-lube it before re-installing it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I called Manson they said 20 or more cylinders before resharpening. Proper oil will help.

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The roughing reamer doesn't have anything to do with surface finish of the chamber...it's a smaller dimensioned reamer than the finisher.