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Old 05-09-2014, 11:51 AM
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Default Bead blast removal

I picked up a 64-2 snub and want to remove the light bead blast that was done on the gun. What's the best method, polishing with Mother's or another product, Scotchbrite, or some other way? I more or less want to return it to the factory finish.
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:39 PM
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BIG-O-CAN of Elbow grease Mike

(couldn't help myself and don't know answer)
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:20 PM
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VM, is REALLY close......... yes, you need to buff and polish, and something MORE aggressive than Mothers........get a couple of BRAND new 3MScothchbrite pads, the red or dark green, they are more aggressive...the key word is "light" bead blast, will determine "how hard" you gotta use that elbow "grit"....then blend in the finish with softer 3 M pads, and a lighter"hand pressure"..........time is your friend, and LOTS of it, go for it ...................
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:39 PM
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Finish off with the grey 3M Scothbrite pad, really close to factory finish, you can find the grey in most auto paint supply stores, around a buck for a 6x6 pad.

Take your time, it will come out just fine.

Last edited by JB4570; 05-09-2014 at 10:40 PM. Reason: opps, spelling
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:47 AM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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I would advise that you wet sand the finish and back up the wet sandpaper with something flat like a tongue depressor. The problem with going at it straight on with Scotchbrite is that you will round off the edges of any stamping. Wet sanding with a hard backer will preserve those edges.

As for grits, if it's truly a light bead blast then start with a 600 grit paper. Finish the sanding with a 1000 to 1200 grit wet paper and once it's completely even in appearance a bit of light work with the gray Scotchbrite will leave you a finish very close to the factory.
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:14 AM
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Mike,

You might consider returning it to S&W for a vibra-hone.

Might save you a case of Tennis Elbow.

Drew
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter123 View Post
I would advise that you wet sand the finish and back up the wet sandpaper with something flat like a tongue depressor. The problem with going at it straight on with Scotchbrite is that you will round off the edges of any stamping. Wet sanding with a hard backer will preserve those edges.

As for grits, if it's truly a light bead blast then start with a 600 grit paper. Finish the sanding with a 1000 to 1200 grit wet paper and once it's completely even in appearance a bit of light work with the gray Scotchbrite will leave you a finish very close to the factory.
Exactly. I have done a number of revolvers using this technique.
Never use any sort of power tool unless you want a ruined gun.
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Old 05-10-2014, 02:57 PM
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Thanks guys, just picked up some Blue Emu on the advice of Johnny Bench.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:09 PM
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Well here's the gun. It's a -2, funny thing it has an NY-1 stamp and bobbed hammer, though NY-1's didn't come out for another 5 years. More than likely faked.
The seller divulged all before hand, and never tried to pass it as a real NY-1. It's nontheless a good shooter and I got it for a good price.



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Old 06-14-2014, 08:29 PM
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Ladder13, I like those stocks. They have just the right amount of bark on them. It is a shame that someone tried to fake the NY-1. Not that Model 64s are particularly collectable (at least not yet), but that particular one never could be. It is a credit to the seller that he didn't try to deceive you.
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:34 AM
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Good job. Had one of those years ago. Was the most accurate snub I ever had.
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