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  #1  
Old 05-12-2014, 07:51 PM
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perfectcircle1 perfectcircle1 is offline
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Default Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring?

So I have a 65-3 that I aquired recently and when I grab the cylinder when closed of course and move it front to back it actually moves the cylinder release button with it. if I hold the button with my thumb the cylinder barely moves at all. My other k frames do not do this at all and all I can think of its a weak spring that holds the cylinder release bar(if thats whats its called). Aside from this the gun functions fine and shoots fine. Anyone with thoughts?
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:10 PM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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If there's enough endplay the you can see the thumb piece moving, you have more serious problems than the thumb piece moving. The part the thumb piece is fastened to is called the "bolt". If you want to try replacing the spring, go ahead, but I'd get someone to look very carefully at the 65.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:17 PM
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Its just weird cause it doesnt feel as though it has any more play than any of my other k frames it just moves the cylinder release button with it
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:51 PM
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So upon closer inspection ive found that the endshake at the cylinder forward measurement is .004 and at the rear is .011. A difference of .007 which i remember reading .005 is the limit. At this point what are my options? How much will this repair be? The gun is really nice and i only paid $375 for it. The funny part is it looks like its seen almost no rounds through it. If i need to ship it out and get it freshened up i will.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:28 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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You can send it to S&W for a factory type repair, and while they have it they'll give it a 100% factory level inspection and cleaning.

You cna also send or take it to a QUALIFIED gunsmith who's trained to work on the S&W revolvers.

If you have nominal hand skills, you can even repair it yourself by installing hardened stainless steel end shake washers into the cylinder.
You can buy the special washers from Brownell's.

While you're there, buy a copy of the Jerry Kunhausen Shop Manual on the S&W revolvers.
This is a real gunsmiths manual on how to do FACTORY level repairs to the S&W's.

Also, buy the four Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits to remove the screws without damaging them:

End Shake bearing washers:

CYLINDER BEARINGS | Brownells

Shop manual:

THE S&W REVOLVER - A SHOP MANUAL | Brownells

Magna-Tip gunsmith driver bits. Use your own handle or buy a Brownell's "law enforcement" size handle. The handle shown with the bits is too big for good control:

S&W REVOLVER COMBO | Brownells

Law Enforcement size handle:

LAW ENFORCEMENT HANDLES | Brownells

Smart move: Send it in to the factory. They make sure it's in 100% order.
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2014, 08:38 PM
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perfectcircle1 perfectcircle1 is offline
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Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfariswheel View Post
You can send it to S&W for a factory type repair, and while they have it they'll give it a 100% factory level inspection and cleaning.

You cna also send or take it to a QUALIFIED gunsmith who's trained to work on the S&W revolvers.

If you have nominal hand skills, you can even repair it yourself by installing hardened stainless steel end shake washers into the cylinder.
You can buy the special washers from Brownell's.

While you're there, buy a copy of the Jerry Kunhausen Shop Manual on the S&W revolvers.
This is a real gunsmiths manual on how to do FACTORY level repairs to the S&W's.

Also, buy the four Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits to remove the screws without damaging them:

End Shake bearing washers:

CYLINDER BEARINGS | Brownells

Shop manual:

THE S&W REVOLVER - A SHOP MANUAL | Brownells

Magna-Tip gunsmith driver bits. Use your own handle or buy a Brownell's "law enforcement" size handle. The handle shown with the bits is too big for good control:

S&W REVOLVER COMBO | Brownells

Law Enforcement size handle:

LAW ENFORCEMENT HANDLES | Brownells

Smart move: Send it in to the factory. They make sure it's in 100% order.
Wow this is a great response. Although id like to fix ot myself on the cheap this is a 3 inch barreled gun that I waited for forever and id like to have it 100%....decisions decisions. Have any idea what an overhaul like that would run?
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:14 AM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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If your problem is a yoke barrel that's a bit short, the factory cure is generally to stretch the yoke barrel by swaging it. While this works, it reduces the cross sectional area of the yoke barrel, making it somewhat weaker. Obviously, the factory doesn't consider this a major issue. Some of us do.

Squaring the end of the yoke barrel and using the cylinder bearings/shims works quite well. The factory frets that the shims will disintigrate and bind the cylinder. They discourage use of the bearings/shims for that reason [Actually, they act like vampires faced with a cross.]. Possible (like the yoke wearing excessively from a reduced cross section) hasn't been observed that I know about. This doesn't mean it can't/hasn't happened.

You can get a very rough price quote from the S&W factory service folks. A recent time estimate on a repair on one of my revolvers ran something like 6 months.

I have to admit I'm puzzled by your endshake measurements. Am I correct in assuming that you're measuring the barrel/cylinder gap with the cylinder fully forward and fully to the rear to get that 0.007?

You could always try the bearings and see if it works. Run you maybe $20 for a pack of shims plus the book. Probably about what a decent armorer would charge.
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2014, 06:34 AM
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perfectcircle1 perfectcircle1 is offline
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Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring? Play in cylinder or cylinder release spring?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WR Moore View Post
If your problem is a yoke barrel that's a bit short, the factory cure is generally to stretch the yoke barrel by swaging it. While this works, it reduces the cross sectional area of the yoke barrel, making it somewhat weaker. Obviously, the factory doesn't consider this a major issue. Some of us do.

Squaring the end of the yoke barrel and using the cylinder bearings/shims works quite well. The factory frets that the shims will disintigrate and bind the cylinder. They discourage use of the bearings/shims for that reason [Actually, they act like vampires faced with a cross.]. Possible (like the yoke wearing excessively from a reduced cross section) hasn't been observed that I know about. This doesn't mean it can't/hasn't happened.

You can get a very rough price quote from the S&W factory service folks. A recent time estimate on a repair on one of my revolvers ran something like 6 months.

I have to admit I'm puzzled by your endshake measurements. Am I correct in assuming that you're measuring the barrel/cylinder gap with the cylinder fully forward and fully to the rear to get that 0.007?

You could always try the bearings and see if it works. Run you maybe $20 for a pack of shims plus the book. Probably about what a decent armorer would charge.
Yes you are correct, with cylinder pushed all the way forward its .004 then pushed to the rear its .011.
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