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Old 05-27-2014, 03:48 PM
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Fla_Sun Fla_Sun is offline
625 JM and about to give up... 625 JM and about to give up... 625 JM and about to give up... 625 JM and about to give up... 625 JM and about to give up...  
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Default 625 JM and about to give up...

I am trying to lighten the trigger pull.
Some time ago I purchased the Wolff reduced power spring and got complete fail to ignite.

I then bought the Apex extra length firing pin (received the competition one with the cone tip even though I did not order that one) and still got a complete fail to ignite.

I then tried the Wilson reduced main spring with Apex pin and same thing.

I just tried the spent primer cup on the main spring tension screw today and got iffy single action ignition only ignition. Also a couple pierced primers with the pointy firing pin on the AR cases.

I still have a Brownell's extra length firing pin to try but I'm getting a little tired of another wasted trip to the range. I also have a Wolff regular main spring still on back order since at least 6 months ago.

These are 45ACP cases in moon clips. AR cases have about a 2 of 6 DA fail rate with the latest setup.

What other tricks can I try?
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:50 PM
jimintheburg jimintheburg is offline
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Default 625 JM

I don't know if this will help ( Think I'm right on this ) I am not sure what to call this part but if you remove the grips, since this is a j-frame like my 610 and should be the same, there is a piece of metal that is in the handle and there should be a tensoning screw that impacts the trigger pull. I was getting light strikes on my 610 and found that the heavy recoil on full velocity rounds, at least that is what I think, had caused the screw to back out and thus caused the light strikes. I screwed the screw in and found a place where the trigger pull was still good and no more light strikes. I think that you are to screw the screw in as far as it will go but it did impact on the trigger pull. Don't know if this will help or if this is the problem, but thought I would mention it. Good luck on solving the issue
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:57 PM
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Kurac Kurac is offline
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Besides using Federal primers, the only other things I can think of is to get a lighter trigger return spring and then grind the edges of the mainspring until you get the pull you are looking for. It might be that what you expect is not possible though and you may have to compromise.
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:58 PM
ken158 ken158 is offline
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Another reminder that the mainspring screw is NOT and adjustment... it is designed to be tight. A wider trigger will give a lighter feeling pull and there are aftermarket mainsprings available as you noted. I dont like the narrow trigger on my JM either but have not taken the time to remedy this as of yet.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:01 PM
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What happens when you go to the stock main spring. In my opinion smooth is way way more important the light. You could also go to the hardware store and get a socket headed 6-32 screw a 1/4" or so longer than your stock mainspring tension screw and use it. Keep tightening it up until you get 100% ignition. Then when you know how much you need sticking through the frame against the spring, shorten it so it is tight to the frame with that much stick in.

Are there any rub marks on the side of the hammer or firing pin that indicated it is rubbing somewhere? Probably just not enough spring tension to reliably fire. You don't need to make trips to the range, just use a bunch of primed cases to test for ignition. I would much rather have more than enough, than be border line. If your piercing primers with the pointy pin go back to stock one. What kind of primers.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:25 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Originally Posted by Fla_Sun View Post
What other tricks can I try?
No tricks, just a proceedure to get reliable ignition.

Firing pin. Make sure it's at least .492" long.

You've got a Wolff reduced power mainspring. Get a 1/2" long 8-32 socket set screw to use with it.

Use it as a strain screw. Adjust it in until you get consistent ignition.

After you get consistent ignition you can, if you feel a need, replace the socket set screw with a "proper" strain that can be "fully tightened down". Get the gun running reliably first.

The set screw will give you a measurement for how much strain screw needs to be sticking thru the grip frame pre-loading the mainspring. The Wolff Reduced Power mainsprings frequently need a longer than stock strain screw. It's purely a geometry thing because the reduced power spring has more arch.

Hand seat your primers.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:28 PM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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Stop fooling around with aftermarket main springs, you don't need them.

Items to purchase. 1) Cylinder & Slide extended length firing pin. This pin features a round tip and won't pierce a primer as long as you reduce the DA trigger pull to less than 10 lbs. 2) A brand spanking new Strain Screw. BTW I suggest purchasing the blued version instead of stainless because they are a bit harder and the tip won't peen over as quickly with use. I also suggest that you purchase at least 3 because if you go overboard it's good to have a fresh one on hand for a "do over". 3) A 14 lbs. Rebound spring and a tool to install it. BTW, I've heard a philips head screwdriver can be used but the proper tool is a huge timesaver and likely a spring saver. Because those springs are nearly as quick as a bullet when they pop loose. 4) Not a must but I also STRONGLY suggest purchasing the Lyman Digital Trigger gage so you know exactly what your weight is at.

Procedure. Install the 14 lbs Rebound spring and then the original factory mainspring. Take your first new strain screw and measure the overall length with some calipers. Now take a hand file or Dremel and shorten the tip to reduce the overall length by 0.020 inch. Note, after shortening the strain screw you will want to put a small chamfer all the way around the tip so it will start in the threads in the frame easier. I use a small diamond file to add this chamfer. Install this Strain Screw and measure the DA trigger Pull. You should see a reading right about 10.0 lbs. Now remove the Strain screw and shorten it by another 0.005 inch. Now install it again and measure the DA trigger pull. What you are looking for is a DA trigger weight of 9.25-9.5 lbs. This is about 3 lbs. lighter than the original factory setting and is heavy enough that you'll get reliable ignition with almost any pistol primer on the market.

Now, if you want to get the DA trigger down to 8 lbs. you'll have to do some shooting to leave some wear marks in the frame recess and on the sideplate. You may also have to remove the Lock, because they can drag on the hammer. Anywhere you see rub marks you are seeing the result of drag on the hammer and you need to address that. One easy way to clean up a drag problem is to install a small round shim about 0.0015 inch thick on the hammer pivot pin on the side where the drag is showing. There is enough clearance in most of these revolvers to permit some shimming of the hammer to get it centered perfectly. However, I would not install any shim thicker than 0.003 inch. You also want to keep the outer diameter of the shim at 0.25 inch or less, because small diameters create less drag than large. Finally, with an N frame it's been my experience that an 8 lbs. DA trigger requires the use of ammunition featuring Federal primers, if you try shooting Remington ammo you'll probably have issues with misfires. CCI primers at present lie between Federal and Remington for hardness and are a bit closer to Federal in ease of ignition. Use CCI primers and you'll probably find the reliable ignition point is about 8.5 lbs.
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