To remove pins, is it left to right or right to left?
I can not remember. I know, use the factory con-cave drift pin drivers. I have three sets. Best, Mike 2796.

I always go left to right on pin removal.

I have always wondered this myself so I want to get in here and show my dumbness. Is it left to right looking from the muzzle end or left to right from the grip end?

If you are looking down the barrel, go right to left. The best way is to use cup punches. They are shaped like the pins. This is to prevent flattening your round pins. Brownells sells them. Make sure to put the pins back in the way they came out. If you look at the pin when it is out one side is a bit smaller, push that side in first. If you can't tell then before you remove the pin, mark one side with a marker. Or don't drive the pin all the way out.
Looking down the barrel is starting from the barrel end. The easy way is to drive the pins towards the side plate side.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

Thank you for explaining the correct procedure.

When I asked the question of a S&W armorer I was told it makes no difference as no pins on a S&W are tapered, they are all straight pins. Since then I have removed many pins and they have all been straight. Be sure to use a cup head punch for the older round head pins.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Well, when you consider lanyard pins on AirLite guns there is no problem

The pins fall out on their own whenever you change grips and get lost.

The pins are all straight. But one end is almost always ground down a little smaller to help start the pin when it is put in.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

Very few tapered pins used in gun assemblys,,it's just to costly to fit.
One place I have run into them is on some ejector forend assemblys on a few German and Austrian shotgun and double rifles. Why there and not elsewhere, I don't know.

Straight pins are mostoften driven in from the right side (looking from the rear of the gun assembly). Same with a dovetailed piece like a sight.
Drive them out from the left to right,,especially the dovetailed pieces as they are fitted with a very slight taper in many cases if any hand fitting is involved.

If they are stubborn in coming out,,always keepin mind that someone before you may have used loc-tite or something similar to really make sure the pin or part stayed put. Take a careful look to see what you're up against. Resorting to driving it out the 'opposite way' can many times be the answer on a straight dia pin that is stubborn.
Don't immediately resort to the 'Mr. Big Hammer' or 'bash-em' method as that can quickly result in riveting the part into place even more securely.
Drilling out a small dia pin is not a job for a hand held Black& Decker.