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11-02-2014, 01:08 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Try it and let us know how it works out
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11-02-2014, 10:45 AM
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Member
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wyoming
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I've done a few guns at home with the older HVLP sprayer and had good results on an FAL rifle and a couple of handguns. Never done a revolver. The trick is patience and spray it on in very thin coats with plenty of time to dry between each coat. You don't have to bake it but you can cure it on low heat, and I think you get a more durable finish that way. Let us know how it turns out if you try it.
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11-02-2014, 11:56 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Looks to be a cheap & easy alternative to Bluing or Parkerizing. I just wish it were available in a finish to look like rust bluing and not a dull paint finish, but for $35 bucks I suppose it's a viable product.
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11-02-2014, 03:48 PM
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US Veteran
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
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I did, and I've been happy with the results so far. Here's the thread I did on it:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/firearm...coat-pics.html
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“What you got, ain’t new.”
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11-03-2014, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Buckeye, AZ, USA
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I've used Duracoat quite a bit and have learned a few things about it. First, the longer it is allowed to cure before you reassemble, the better. As an epoxy 2-part finish, it gets harder with time. I've had excellent results on rifles. I've found that if the prep work is done properly; degreasing and bead blasting, this stuff sticks quite well. A little low heat speeds the process, allowing faster coats. Just let the gun sit and cure for a week or so before you put it back together. I'd keep a handgun out of holsters for a while longer to ensure no immediate holster wear.
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Dave Frost
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