Cylinder drag ring

[3S16]

I have this model 36 no dash that is otherwise pristine, except for the cylinder drag ring. I contacted Smith & Wesson customer service to see about a reblue on the cylinder.
Whereas, it's a 1967 vintage gun, they said they are unable to match the re-bluing of the cylinder to the fame. I just want a clean gun for myself - won't be selling it.
Anyone know a company who can match the old bluing process?

[Gunsnwater]

Drag ring is normal, unless it's a trench. Learn to love it. Most have it from the factory. Very rare to not have one. Turnbul is the best restorer out there. He can match the blue.

[Fishinfool]

If the drag line bothers you, and you don't intend to sell or shoot the gun, then a re-blue might work. But if you intend to shoot it at all, a new drag mark will again form in short order. It is just the nature of how a DA S&W action works. Google Fords refinishing - they are well known for their quality work in matching finishes, as is Doug Turnbull up in NY.

Larry

[3S16]

Thanks guys. Guess I'll live with it and love it.

[tlay]

You can use a cold blue on the ring to make it look better. Use Brownells Oxpho bluing. Clean the cylinder with acetone and use a blow dryer to heat it up to where it is warm to the touch. Use a Qtip to apply the bluing to the ring. After 1 minute wype dry and buff with 0000 steel wool. Apply as many coats to match. Afterwards use a good wax such as Renaissance wax.

[Fastbolt]

Don't think of it as a drag line. It's not.

S&W calls it a "stop track", meaning it's caused by the ball of the cylinder stop rubbing against the cylinder's surface, leaving a track in the finished surface.

Shoot & enjoy the vintage J-frame.

[Jaymo]

I used to sweat things like this.
Not anymore. I just shoot them and enjoy them.

[chief38]

Show me a Smith without a Drag-line and I'll show you a Smith that has NEVER been shot!

They usually have a discernible drag line right out of the box - just part of the design and there is nothing one can do about it. If it makes you feel better, Colts will also do the same (although slightly less noticeable).

[gunluvver]

Originally Posted by tlay

You can use a cold blue on the ring to make it look better. Use Brownells Oxpho bluing. Clean the cylinder with acetone and use a blow dryer to heat it up to where it is warm to the touch. Use a Qtip to apply the bluing to the ring. After 1 minute wype dry and buff with 0000 steel wool. Apply as many coats to match. Afterwards use a good wax such as Renaissance wax.

+1 on the Oxpho Blue. I used it on one of mine and the line disappeared. I've used it to re-blue whole guns after glass bead blasting. It's all I use as far as cold blue goes.

[chief38]

Originally Posted by gunluvver

+1 on the Oxpho Blue. I used it on one of mine and the line disappeared. I've used it to re-blue whole guns after glass bead blasting. It's all I use as far as cold blue goes.

Quite temporary at best and will wear off the first time you shoot the gun. Any smith owner knows your revolver WILL have a turn line and most of us don't even see them anymore. It is what it is!

[Printer]

Cylinder drag ring? I'm assuming your talking about the drag from one cylinder stop notch to the next. That's a good thing. You can read a lot from that "ring" or drag mark.( it would take to long to explain it in here) But it tells you that your cylinder stop is doing its job.
Bob St.George (S&W ret.)

[Muss Muggins]

Originally Posted by chief38

Show me a Smith without a Drag-line and I'll show you a Smith that has NEVER been shot!

They usually have a discernible drag line right out of the box - just part of the design and there is nothing one can do about it. If it makes you feel better, Colts will also do the same (although slightly less noticeable).

Not only has it never been fired, but it's probably not fitted correctly. During the fitting and tuning, the cylinder is turned probably a thousand times in order to make sure the cylinder carries up and locks up and the hammer doesn't push off.

[Watchdog]

Originally Posted by 3S16

I have this model 36 no dash that is otherwise pristine, except for the cylinder drag ring. I contacted Smith & Wesson customer service to see about a reblue on the cylinder.

Why bother? The line will just come right back. Unless you plan on never turning the cylinder again.

Cylinder turn lines are in every revolver's DNA.

[03Fatboy]

If you like revolvers, you like drag lines period. It's not a negative, shoot it and enjoy it.

[exdetsgt]

I have a 642-1 I bought yesterday. I have not yet shot it (probably will Monday). Just looked at it. No drag lines. Should I be concerned?

[Hapworth]

Originally Posted by exdetsgt

I have a 642-1 I bought yesterday. I have not yet shot it (probably will Monday). Just looked at it. No drag lines. Should I be concerned?

They can be a little harder to see on stainless revolvers, but they're there.

If the 642 operates correctly during dry fire, you should have nothing to worry about.

[exdetsgt]

I have snap caps and during dry fire it operates correctly. Thanks.

[NJM15]

Originally Posted by Gunsnwater

Drag ring is normal, unless it's a trench. Learn to love it. Most have it from the factory. Very rare to not have one. Turnbul is the best restorer out there. He can match the blue.

I went to the Gun shop to see my new model 25 (Classic) I cant pick it up till I get a purchase permit , but it had a drag ring on it from the factory My Ruger GP 100 stainless doesn't show one after thousands of rounds through it, its 25 years old

[tomcatt51]

Originally Posted by NJM15

I went to the Gun shop to see my new model 25...it had a drag ring on it from the factory My Ruger GP 100 stainless doesn't show one after thousands of rounds through it, its 25 years old

So, you just "discovered" a S&W is (fortunately) not just like a Ruger?

[shawn mccarver]

Here we go again. The last word on "drag lines," from D. B. Wesson himself.