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Old 09-15-2014, 10:53 AM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Default M60-9 TRIGGER PROBLEM

A year ago, roughly, I had took the side plate off and replaced the rebound spring. I didn't like how light the reset was so I reinstalled the factory spring and lightly touched a stone to the surfaces of the rebound slide, like shown in so many videos. I've had no problem till recently when I dry fired it and noticed it catching occasionally in DA and hitting a hard spot when cocking the hammer for SA. Sometimes the trigger would stick and not reset. This is felt even worse when the gun is held sideways or facing down. I was going to remove the side plate and see what is sticking but now my grip screw is stuck to the bushing and the factory rubber grip won't come off. I don't want to destroy the screw if I don't have to but how can I get the grip off? Any ideas on what internally is wrong?

I am standing by, thinking of superglue to lock the bushing so I can unscrew the grip, will that work?? Or should I just drill out the grip screw?
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:21 AM
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You should be able to put a little penetrating oil on the grip screw, (Kroil), and let it settle in a little. That should loosen up the screw. I have never heard of a grip screw that couldn't be removed. Be sure t use a correct size screwdriver tip.
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:55 PM
ghstrydr164 ghstrydr164 is offline
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If you are saying that the bushing is turning with the grip screw and you need to secure the bushing so the screw may be backed out?

Maybe you could run a very fine pair of needle nose pliers into the hole of the rubber grips and hold the bushing while you backed the screw out. May have to grind a pair to fit the hole.
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:15 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Yes, the bushing just turns with the screw. I'll try to get a better pair of needle nose to grip the bushing, been unsuccessful so far.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:18 AM
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Default model 60

Reference the action problem and to help isolate the cause....when you get the grips and sideplate off you might try temporarily removing the hammer block, then replace the sideplate and try the action in the positions you describe...."sideways" and "facing down". I've had instances where the flag on the hammer block interfered with the trigger return when the flag at the top of the block lightly touches and drags on the hammer as it (the block) is trying to interpose between the hammer face and the frame during the trigger return phase. If this is what's causing the problem there is a relatively easy fix.
I have read threads on the forum where members describe broken hammer blocks in this model...not sure of the cause. I've never seen one break in 40+ years.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:27 AM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951 View Post
Reference the action problem and to help isolate the cause....when you get the grips and sideplate off you might try temporarily removing the hammer block, then replace the sideplate and try the action in the positions you describe...."sideways" and "facing down". I've had instances where the flag on the hammer block interfered with the trigger return when the flag at the top of the block lightly touches and drags on the hammer as it (the block) is trying to interpose between the hammer face and the frame during the trigger return phase. If this is what's causing the problem there is a relatively easy fix.
I have read threads on the forum where members describe broken hammer blocks in this model...not sure of the cause. I've never seen one break in 40+ years.
I got the grips off, ruined them in the process.

The hammer block is the issue, removed it put the side plate back on and the trigger is smooth and no binding. I'm not sure stoning it would help, I think that would make it smaller and maybe make the fit worse, yes?
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Old 09-16-2014, 03:18 PM
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Default model 60

Bobafett.......
The block in the attached photo is from a K-frame gun but it will illustrate the flag of the hammer block. What you want to do is "break" the sharp corners on each side at the top of the flag. This can be done with a medium grit stone or a small file. You are only breaking the corner and not removing material from the body of the flag itself. Crowning or breaking each of these sharp corners should remedy the problem.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:10 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951 View Post
Bobafett.......
The block in the attached photo is from a K-frame gun but it will illustrate the flag of the hammer block. What you want to do is "break" the sharp corners on each side at the top of the flag. This can be done with a medium grit stone or a small file. You are only breaking the corner and not removing material from the body of the flag itself. Crowning or breaking each of these sharp corners should remedy the problem.
I gotcha, Thanks for the tip!
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:05 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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These MIM hammer blocks, are they hardened throughout? Where the chrome or nickel plating is worn off it's proving a chore to get it polished enough so it doesn't drag in the channel. I've taken rouge to the channel and am slowly making it smoother. At the start of this, the hammer block was dragging like it was catching burrs in the channel. I still have a ways to go before I'm satisfied.
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Old 09-19-2014, 02:15 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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I'm about to give up, I polished the living **** out of this block and reinstalled it. Side plate screws on finger tight and it binds. I'm about an inch away from calling S&W and asking for an RMA for repair.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:20 PM
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It's not binding on the body of the block but at the top. You might try putting some Dykem on the flag, or marking it with a black Sharpie then running it in the action to see where the contact point is. It's most likely rubbing on the top edge of the flag that faces the hammer. (the top edge facing to the right in your photo)
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:24 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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I now wish I never opened it up.

I polished the blasted hammer block to the point the nickle coating is half worn off. Now I have an intermittent trigger won't reset, with or without the block. I called S&W, they sent me a call tag but the lady said if they see I've tampered with it then the repairs would not be under warranty.

What's their warranty dept like? I've never sent a gun back to S&W before.

I did polish the hammer block, the rebound slide, and the trigger/cyl. stop interface.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:39 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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okay, no bad vibes fella's

I'm shipping it back to S&W tomorrow.

I'll bite the bullet and see what S&W says when they look at the gun.

I cleaned it out with Carb Cleaner and lubed the internals. It's smooth now without the hammer block installed but with it in the trigger won't reset often.

I can't in good faith run this gun without the hammer drop safety installed, one day my son will inherit it and I wouldn't want him to experience something caused by my negligence.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:21 AM
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I have seen the rebound spring break in two and cause that problem. Check to see if it is still intact inside the rebound slide and change if broken.
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Old 11-02-2014, 05:42 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Got it back, fixed and free of charge!

They replaced the hand, cylinder stop, rebound spring, and the hammer block.

Now I need to look for a new set of grips.
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