I have put 200 rounds through a new Model 69. I have to admit, although I am old school, I am impressed with the gun. The only complaint is the 13 lb. trigger pull. I have read that lightening the pull, on frame mounted firing pin models, will create misfires. It is, also, my understanding that the extra length firing pins may pierce primers or stick in the pin bore.

I have done many trigger jobs on older models, however this is my first venture on a frame mounted pin model.

I have plenty of rebound and mainsprings on hand. The firing pin choice would be the issue. Apex, C&S, Power Custom or modding of the stock pin?

Does anyone have suggestions as to, pins, spring weights, etc?

Thanks in advance...

I’m not a gunsmith but I have the scientific method in my tool chest. I’ve had many many misfires in my new M69. I’ve chased lubricants, primers, cleaning schedules, brass, etc. I reload and can’t remember shooting a box of factory ammo to compare. Yes I’ve made errors in reloading but recognized and corrected them.What I see is varying depth of firing-pin pits on primers, even within a group of 5 rounds fired. Compared to my 3 Ruger revolvers and one Colt revolver, the hammer fall seems wimpy. I love the gun otherwise since I put BIG Hoague grips on it for max load practice. Unfortunately it’s intended purpose is as my “in-town” Alaska Griz gun which demands small grips. But, better lose my wrist than my life. Has anyone had a similar problem?

The first thing is to check the firing pin length. You want a minimum of .495. Most factory ones are less than that. I like the Power Custom extended ones the best, but they all work. I think the best length is .500 to .505.

Then back out the strain screw and start dialing it in in 1/8 turn increments until you get 100% ignition with whatever ammo you're using. Add an 1/8 turn for insurance. Use a trigger pull gage to weigh the hammer tension applied by the mainspring (hook the gage on the hammer and pull till it just lifts off the frame). Record the number of ounces and trim the strain screw till it gives the same hammer tension when screwed all the way in.

Find the lightest rebound spring that gives the best feel of trigger return.

This is the lightest trigger you will get with your ammo. Different primers make a big difference in how hard the hammer has to hit to set them off.
Federal is the softest, CCI is the hardest, Winchester is about 1/2 way in between.

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I have a new M69. Same 12+ pound DA trigger pull. Installed a 13# trigger return spring now DA is 8+ pounds and life is good. No fft. Super gun.

Oh man! I don’t know enough about pistol mechanisms to evaluate my experience. I loaded 25 hot rounds using new Federal Match primers. However I was using a new adjustable primer depth tool and they weren’t completely down but “looked” fine. I cleaned the Gun, paying attention to the space between the hammer and the hammer lock. I shot 3 sets of 5. In each set, the first 3 fired and the last 2 didn't. I set the rounds down in the order they were fired (or failed). The pattern was the same. The pits decreased in depth from the first to the last. The remaining 10 rounds I shot without fail from my Ruger Super Blackhawk. Once I realized the problem with the primer seater, I backed it out and used “feel” like I’ve done over the years without fail (for that reason). I pulled the 6 bullets that didn’t fire, placed new primers with the same bullet and powder. Cleaned the gun again. They fired. If all the pits on the 3X5 were the same, I would hope, “End of Story.”. I don’t see how a longer pin of fixed length would effect a decrescendo of pin-pit depth in 3 consecutive loads.