Is it OK to use WD40 on your weapons ?

It's probably good first aid if your weapon gets wet, but there are better products for lubrication or long-term rust prevention. Of course, you should unload your weapon before using it, so that you are not spraying it on the primers.

For long-term preservation, I prefer RIG. For lubrication, I prefer very sparing use of RIG +P Stainless Steel lube on high-pressure locations, any decent gun oil, probably CLP, elsewhere. However, there are many other well-founded opinions, particularly on lubrication.

I use Hoppes No 9 as a solvent where appropriate and Break Free CLP for lube, and for solvent in those instances when Hoppes No 9 should not be used.

WD-40 attracts dirt and gets gummy. OK to wipe the outside of a gun with, however Break Free, Weapons Shield, and many other newer formulas are much better for firearm mechanisms. Even synthetic 0W20 motor oil is better than the good old WD.

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Virtue,Liberty & Independence

I've used it for what seems like forever. It lubricates and protects. It is also fairly inexpensive compared to all the "miracle" gun products. It certainly won't harm your gun.

Plus, it has the second best smell in the industry (Hoppe's is #1 in the smell department).

I use WD-40 for washing out crud.
I use Wal-Mart 10w30 synthetic for lubrication (so I get good performance in winter and summer)

I have been using WD-40 for cleaning since the mid-90's. There was a thread back when on rec.guns about how using WD-40 on your guns would cause them to stress crack. Knowing that was complete urban myth BS I started using WD-40 for cleaning crud off my guns and never looked back. For a brief time I used brake cleaner but that stripped the metal too raw and I would have to follow up with WD. I finally just stopped using the brake cleaner and used just the WD with some follow up drops of oil in the proper places. Now I use the Wal-Mart branded WD because nothing is too good for my guns.

It should be amusing to see all the people who post saying there guns were completely destroyed by being touched by a single drop of WD-40. Heck if you use WD-40 on some stainless it will stress crack and turn to a pile dust by the time you go to get it out of the safe again. In order to keep your guns safe from the destructive effects of WD-40 you should make sure your firearms are never in the same room with a can of WD.

And remember, never let anything touch your firearms that hasn't been properly rebranded by a gun products company.

While were at it, maybe if we work really hard we can resurrect the argument as to whether top posting or bottom posting is proper netiquette and that you are a noob if you do the wrong one.

Whatever you do, do NOT use WD40 on guns that have been reblued. It can remove some of the bluing especially if any cold bluing was used.
Back in 1980/81 I worked at an aerosol plant in Houston Texas that made WD40. Some of the chemicals used in it would remove paint! It made a great insect killer!
Also don't use it on items that have an O-ring. It will swell them up.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

It's like the windex in the movie "My big, fat Greek wedding" - it's good for anything. If it doesn't work - 3 in 1 oil will - gotta be true - my Great Grandpappy told me so!

WD40 will attract dirt, crud, bacteria, and lots of rumors. However, I've been using it in moderation for 30+ years and haven't had any of these problems.

Way back when, I carried an M36 in an ankle holster, in my boot, and in South Texas. It may have been the extreme humidity or just the smell of my feet, but I couldn't go 24 hours without rust forming. Nothing worked until I soaked a little piece of chamois in WD40 and used it for a quick wipe down every night. The gun got cleaned regularly so there was no chance of it building up, but it has worked well for me for a long time.

I wouldn't use it on a nickeled gun either.

WD40 should not be used on an area of the gun that can't be wiped, and it is not a substitute for lubrication. Left to build up, it forms a varnish-like residue.
WD stands for "water displacing" and it works well as a cleaner and water displacer. On some things, it works TOO WELL as a cleaner and solvent.
There are dozens of better lubricants for guns.

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Science plus Art

As have all of us, I've used WD-40 for years (here in these parts, it's a popular spray on salmon lures. No one knows why; supposedly, one of the secret ingredients is fish oil. Nonetheless, no self respecting salmon fishing boat is without a can or two.)

It's also useful for spraying on primers to make them inert (silicon will do the same). So I've always been reluctant to use on my firearms, thinking that in some mysterious way, WD-40 will weep its way into my cartridges and make them ineffective.

Thus are urban myths created.....

Yep, fish oil:
What is the main ingredient of wd-40? | Penetrating Oils/Cleaners/Solvents | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Or not?
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp

What I've seen first hand is that if you have used a good lube, like CLP or other gun lube, and then spray WD40 into the innards to get rid of moisture, the result is something that looks like whale snot.

(I'd say gorilla snot, but not on this forum, ya' know? )
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ETA- I avoid it's use on firearms for same reasons as WAMike- I know it can kill primers, and it's a good perpetrator. So, why chance it? I will use it for water displacement if need be, but that's then followed by brakleen and CLP. ymmv.

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

I have a gallon can of the stuff in the shop.
Old timers use it on arthritic knees.
Cleans, lubes a little, and displaces moisture.
It is a dielectric solvent, and will clean oxidation from electrical connections.
My regular go to lube is Ballistol.

It may be good for many things but not for my guns. I buy it and use it for nuts and bolts only.

When younger I used to repair electronics items for Pawn shops that failed to work when they came out of pawn. I traded into a full choke Model 12 Winchester and was looking for a 2nd BBL to convert to Cylinder bore.

I inquired at all the gun shops and asked at every pawn shop. One Pawn shop gent said I have a BBL in the back. It's yours free. I took it apart and was going to put the pieces in the trash. He brought it out, dang, it was a Model 1200 vented rib one. I told him it won't fit. He said it's yours. He then said you can have the rest too. He firmly believed the gun was bad.

He brought out the other 1/2. I looked at it, the action was gummed up severe with dried out oil and had had so much lint it looked like fiberglass matting. I told him I could fix it. He said no, the guy claimed he never shot it but sprayed it down with WD 40 and kept it in the closet. I took it in on trade and now the action barely works. He insisted and I took it for free. I used alcohol to clean it, used break free for lube and it was slicker than a new one.

I have seen it gum up the works, I will not use it. All guns need wiped clean and lube kept to a minimum but for me it is REm oil, Break free and several others that are marketed for guns.

At one time WD-40 was not recommended to be use on colt Pythons because something in the mix caused the high luster blue to cloud.

There are two great chores I use WD-40 for. One is to clean Tar and road dirt off of things like car wheels, machine parts, and garage door tracks - etc.

The other is to clean the finger prints off the Stainless Steel Kitchen Appliances along with a Micro-Fiber rag. It's the best appliance cleaner I have tried for stainless.

I do not use WD-40 on any Firearms or on anything I want to stay lubricated or protected. In my personal opinion WD-40 is best used as a cleaning agent - that's it.

If I can find it I remember reading an article back in the 70's that the Illinois State Police used that product on their S&W model 39's and also had problems with the firearm afterward.

You would not believe the horror stories I've heard about WD-40 from instructors, gun "experts" etc. you would think you were spraying sulphuric acid on your gun. I've been using that stuff for 30 years and it works fine. I suspect most of those horror stories were started by salesmen pushing their product that cost 3 times as much and doesn't realy do that much more.

On my stainless 1911, if I am out of carb cleaner I substitute WD40. I break down and then hose down everything with it, scrub well, hose down some more and then blast it all out with an air compressor. Then lubricate. Obviously I do this outside. Messy messy. It's a good cleaner, not a lube.

IIRC, it was developed as a spray on protectant for aviation parts left outside in the weather. Works pretty good in that application.
As a lubricant for firearms, no. As a cleaner and water/ humidity chaser, it is fine. Left alone, it will form a weak "grease" over time as the solvents evaporate. Past a certain point, that "grease" will dry to what people call "varnish". It's not "varnish", and a re-spray of WD will dissolve it. It is a very good solvent to loosen up old lubes and crud in a weapon. Spraying it down into the action of say a revolver is not the way to use it unless you have no other choices. And then you should have access to a good compressor to blow it out. As a matter of fact, I always blow it out of anything I use it on. It does leave a small trace amount of very light oil, and this hurts nothing. Using it a gun lube is a mistake. It will penetrate cartridges and render them dead, and it is way to light to be a good lube. It does penetrate the pores of the steel/ aluminum and keeps them fairly waterproof for a time. And it's solvent properties will pull cold blue, and once used on a weapon, you cannot cold blue over it w/o properly cleaning and de-greasing the metal. Used as a cleaner and waterproofer, it is pretty good, just know it's uses and limitations.

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LEO, Instr, Armorer, Gov's 20

I was told recently by a condo maintenance man it is great for getting rid of carpenter bees.

WD-40 then motor oil and Ballistol here...WD for me is great for cleaning and short tem but it will gum up in time!

"Yep, fish oil:
What is the main ingredient of wd-40? | Penetrating Oils/Cleaners/Solvents | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Or not?
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp"

Apparently not. And yet you'll still find WD-40 in all those tackle boxes.....

When it first came out, WD-40 was all we used for guns. Guess what? I still have those same guns. They were sprayed LIBERALLY inside and out, then left to drip dry barrel DOWN. Then put in a wooden gun cabinet.

A while back I pulled a 870 Rem shot gun that hadn't been removed from that cabinet in 15 years.....I wiped the gun down and looked it over. The gun looked every bit as good now as it did 15 years ago. Action was slick as greased snot.

I do not use WD-40 now, and haven't for a LONG time, but that doesn't mean I never would again. Sometimes I wonder if going to these "gun lubes" was a good thing or not.

Where most people mess up is mixing WD with other gun products on a gun and ending up with a mess ....wondering why.

WD is not so good for wood stocks, I'd keep it off the wood, we always did. It climbs and gets into the wood softening it some over time.

DR

I used in my .22 rifle that my dad gave me when I was 12. I sprayed it down the barrel for long time storage as I do not fire it anymore. It gummed it up so badly that I almost never got it clean. Never used it again on a firearm. I like M-PRO7

From what I have read (roll eyes here) if WD-40 ever does gum up, you can re-spray the gun and the fouling/old WD/old oils melt away instantly.

Since I have never seen WD gum up, I cant attest to that statement.

DR

The WD in WD40 is for water displacing. WD40 is a petroleum distillate. It will evaporate. You cant mix it with other oils. The "gum" that is left is when the WD40 evaporates and leaves what is left of the oil that was on the object. So, you cant put it on over other oils. The WD40 will displace the water in the oil to the surface of the metal and it will rust under there.

The WD40 will act somewhat as a solvent. If one of my guns gets wet, I give it a spray with WD 40 and let it sit a while. Then use brake cleaner to remove the WD40. Then clean and lube with CLP. No rust so far.

Been using WD40 since the sixties.

I used WD as a chief long-term lubricant for years. Then I noticed the actions, especially on my '92 Winchesters, were "sticky" (technical term). On closer inspection, I noted the WD had turned "gummy" (another tech term). A thorough cleaning returned them to their original condition. I now use RIG for long-term storage.

WD-40 is the only product to earn a "fail" rating on my firearms. I used it to wipe guns down as a protectant. One day I went hunting in a light snow fall, so I wiped my shotgun down with it. Thirty minutes into the hunt I had rust spots appearing all over the barrel.

I switched to gun oil after than and never had another rusting issue. WD-40 never touched my firearms again.

It will make certain types of O-rings swell up like doughnuts. Some guns do have O-rings such as a Remington 1100 shotgun.

I would not use it on my guns. There are much better products; however, many believe it will relieve pain and swelling if rubbed into arthritic joints our joints with a mild strain.

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Can my S&W Mdl 10 shoot +P

Many years ago I went out of the gun hobby. I liberally sprayed my Remington 1100 with WD-40 inside and out. After about 7 years locked away, I got it out , and could not move the bolt handle. It was glued shut and would not move at all!!! I had to soak it in kerosene over night,and even then it was still gummed up and hard to move. I have not put WD on any guns since then.
It is good for cleaning the stainless steel cook stove though.

A long time ago, I used WD40 on some of my guns. It gummed them up so much that they would not work. I learned my lesson about WD40. DON'T USE IT ON FIREARMS. It will ruin your ammo too.

I don't understand why people spend hundreds of dollars on a nice firearm and then skimp on the cleaner/lube. CLPs are great products. They may seem a little costly but you don't use much to clean and lube a firearm. Therefore not really expensive.

"varnish-like residue" best friend is in autobody, has been since the 70's. Hes always called it the "locksmith's best friend" as in using it in internal mechanisms gums them up. Then again its almost all I ever used on guns in the late eighties and early nineties.

My 625 gets hosed down with it every 1k rounds or so. Seems to take burn marks off like nobodies business, until the gun melted.

It doesn't stay in place over long times and runs off easily, so if you use it, make sure to use a little often to keep it 'wet'.

I have heard people say that with excessive use it can dry and gum up a gun pretty bad. I never saw this. If you spray a lot in a gun and leave it several years, yeah, I can see that happening. I just think if you use it, use a little often.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I don't have any experience using WD 40 myself but by coincidence, today I read a post about a major grease build up in a handgun and the topic of WD 40 came up as a big no no.

The grease build up in the original post was a different issue but I thought it might be of interest.

Have you ever seen this much grease?

I'm cheap, I use 100 percent synthetic motor oil or ATF as a clp for my semi-autos and wheelguns. A friend cleaned his model 36 with WD40 regularly. It swelled the stocks impinging the mainspring / strut.

WD40? Back when I was a maintenance tech at the Rubbermaid factory in Winchester Va, I'd use it as a cuttin' lube for drilling out stripped manifold threads and tapping them for a hardened steel insert on multi-ton plastic molding presses.
Another thing I used it for was on the seams on the bed of my '87 Toyota 4wd truck to try to prevent rust. Delayed the inevitable but it rusted anyway.
I never came near a gun with it.

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Keep on Chooglin'

I have used WD-40 for the past 51 years for firearm maintenance and have yet to have a problem of any sort with my guns. Cleans, lubes, and prevents rust. No gumming up either.

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Lost in Penn's Woods

I've had my fair share of pristine looking pistols brought to me by academy cadets (who fear "white glove" inspections), reporting assorted malfunctions experienced during their live-fire range sessions. Sometimes it's happened when academy graduates returned and experience malfunctions with their "clean & lubed" pistols when attending their first agency qualification session.

The common denominator has often been along the lines of, "But I used WD40 to clean and lubricate it!?!" When pistols start to heat up after a mag or two, clean/dry guns don't seem to run as well as clean/lubed guns ... or even dirty/lubed guns. Go figure. I cleaned and lubed the guns using one or another of the normal gun products that rotate through the bench ... and the guns suddenly worked as intended.

I use WD40 on some car parts, gardening equipment and door hinges.

Lots of good products being sold for use on firearms. Nice to see some being offered that are less toxic, too. However, you still need to read the labels. Not only for potential safety precautions, but to make sure whatever product you want to use is appropriate for the materials on your firearms (steel, aluminum, wood, plastic, etc).

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

No . . . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

Considering it was developed as a water displacement and used to prevent corrosion in nuclear missiles I feel pretty confident it's not going to destroy my guns, if it does we're in a heap of trouble with our nuclear deterrent.

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Back to back World War Champs.

I've used it from time to time. Never had a problem