I just got a Model 10-8. No rust or pitting, but barrel is pretty worn. Cylinder a bit too but I can live with that.

This will be a shooter. So it doesn't need to look like a museum piece. I've been watching cold bluing videos on youtube. Brownells sells a product that gets rave reviews. IF I decide to go this route, should I strip the whole barrel of existing bluing and then do the whole barrel, or just use the stuff to touch up the areas that are in need? Problem with that is I am sure some bluing compound will get on the existing blue.

This is a gun made in 1980. I know the wear adds character, but it just bugs me to see streaks of silver along the barrel.

I don't feel like spending 300 bucks and sending the gun to S&W or Fords right now, and waiting 6 months to a year. Maybe if the project doesn't work out.

So, strip barrel and do the whole thing, or touch up the areas needed? I won't do a thing until I get firmly acquainted with the process. I know to thoroughly clean, degrease, and warm parts that are gonna be done. A few guys went through the whole process on youtube and the guns looked great and blended well. One guy did it to an old Remington pump and it looked new.

I use Oxpho Blue. Cleaning and degreasing is good, but I've never found a benefit from warming.

I'd leave the bluing be and concentrate on the worn spots. Apply sparingly, set briefly, give it a minute then wipe off. Agitate with 0000 steel or copper wool.

Repeat many times -- minimum six or seven, if not more -- to start to get a blended, decent look.

It can be done. It won't be perfect. If your eye doesn't like some honest wear, it might not like a cold blue covering of an honest wear, either, but nothing wrong with seeing if it's a shooter anyway. Bear in mind no cold blue is particularly resilient with use and cleaning, so if you don't like it it'll diminish with time anyway.

I have cold blued my rifle barrels to make them look better but...
as mentioned you can see the difference and it is not near to
a factory blue job but will cover up shiny spots and look better.

Give it a try........... I think you will be happy at the newer look.

However, blueing is really a rust process that in no way protects a firearms finish. Yes....you can cold blue a gun....if you spend a lot of time and are very careful. However, I've never seen a cold blue which holds up as well as a professional hot blue job. Actually, even a dynamite hot blue job doesn't hold up well unless you're going to leave the gun in a showcase and not fire it.

I have a gunsmith who swears by 44/40 cold blue. Brownell's carries it, but it's pricey. Just experiment, it won't hurt anything. Thorough degreasing is essential.

How long should I leave the oil on after the cold blue to prevent rust? And will the cold blue blend in enough so it looks better than the worn parts? I know it won't be perfect, but not looking to make it look worse.

There's no real way of knowing if it will look better until you're done -- too many variables, and too subjective an issue.

There should always be a light wipe down amount of oil on the revolver when it's not in use.

i did some bluing work with Oxpho Blue on my k22 recently. Try the bluing compound on a hidden spot first to make sure it won't remove the bluing already there.....then, if it doesn't, put some on 0000 steel wool after degreasing the gun, and GENTLY ( little to no pressure ) rub it as it does it's thing...that will help it blend better.....at one point it'll look somewhat close to what you have on there now, then wipe it off and oil it. Leave the oil sit for a few minutes to make sure the bluing compound is nullified. Repeat as necessary.

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