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Old 02-04-2015, 09:43 PM
vetteracerx vetteracerx is offline
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Default 686 timing question

Hey guys I just got a stainless 686 no dash 4" revolver. I have noticed that one chamber will not totally lock up when I cock the hammer slowly. If I work the hammer quickly or cycle it DA the cylinder locks up fine. Am I being too picky or is there a problem? Is the solution an over sized hand? Or a new extractor? Thanks
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:04 PM
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How is it if you cycle the DA ultra-slowly?

If it locks up on ultra-slow DA every time I wouldn't worry about it, personally. Slow cocking SA is a bit of an abnormal situation but could feasibly be caused by dirt.

I don't think you are being too picky.
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:22 PM
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If when cocking the hammer slowly it does not lock up your timing is off and should be corrected. Not a real big deal and any competent GS should be able to fit an oversized hand.
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:25 PM
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First, in spite of the nearly universal mis-use of the word "timing" in this circumstance this is not a timing issue. It is, possibly, a "carry-up" issue. Timing refers to the relationship of the charge holes to the barrel bore when "in battery". Carry-up is how the cylinder is advanced relative to the cylinder stop notches when the gun is cocked.

You need to check carry-up correctly, and cocking the gun slowly isn't it. While applying very light pressure to the side of the cylinder with the opposite hand to slightly retard cylinder rotation pull the hammer to full cock, hold the hammer to prevent it falling, and pull the trigger completely. If, while being retarded, the cylinder stop correctly falls into the stop notches then everything is good. If it doesn't drop until you manually turn the cylinder slightly then the gun doesn't carry-up. The only way to correct this is to fit a new hand. A new standard hand may be adequate as there is slight tolerance in thickness. Otherwise an oversize hand is needed.

Note: Be sure you have cases in the gun when you check it, this can make the difference between full carry-up and not.

In addition to an oversize hand you will need a "Hand window" file, in case the hand window is not wide enough for the oversize hand. A small "barrette" file, to file the ratchet lugs as needed. And, finally, a thorough understanding of the proper relationship between the ratchet and hand and how the hand acts on the ratchet, the manual dexterity and patience to do a workmanlike job, and the skill that is necessary. Even with the correct tools a single incorrect file stroke can ruin a ratchet beyond repair and totally defeat the repair effort.

In other words, find someone who already knows how to fit a hand and pay them to do it. This is assuming that a correct check for carry-up reveals that a new hand is needed!
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:21 PM
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WOW thanks for all the quick responses. I did check carry -up as described by Alk8944. With slight drag, the cylinder will not lock up consistently. Its hard for me to have any credibility as no one here knows me. I am not a gunsmith by trade. I do enjoy learning and I have a fully equipped shop. I am not a hack and understand how to safely repair/build firearms. I will be trying to do this job myself. I purchased this 686 cheap so I have no issues trying to fit new parts. The reason I do this work myself is because I paid a good amount of money to a local gunsmith to correct my model 29 that I got used. Long story short he made it worse and I was able to correct it. Thanks
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:49 PM
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Open the crane ...Is there a letter "M" stamped between the serial and model stamp ???



If not you can send it to S&W for the free hammer nose mod upgrade and they will usually put it back to factory original specs free of charge.

Last edited by Engine49guy; 02-04-2015 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine49guy View Post
Open the crane ...Is there a letter "M" stamped between the serial and model stamp ???



If not you can send it to S&W for the free hammer nose mod upgrade and they will usually put it back to factory original specs free of charge.
Yes she has that M what does it mean?
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:39 AM
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Ah I did some research and found the answer on the "M" Maybe I will call S&W and ship this old girl off to them. The more I look at it the more ugly I see. The yoke barrel has some pretty strange marks on the sides.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:43 AM
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It means you're good to go. Lacking an 'M' stamp means a trip. To the factory for some work involving the firing pin bushing.
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:48 PM
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Default 686 lock up

Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteracerx View Post
Hey guys I just got a stainless 686 no dash 4" revolver. I have noticed that one chamber will not totally lock up when I cock the hammer slowly. If I work the hammer quickly or cycle it DA the cylinder locks up fine. Am I being too picky or is there a problem? Is the solution an over sized hand? Or a new extractor? Thanks
I can help you with your problem. I am in Clinton,N.Y. , and a retired armorer from Utica pd... I have the parts and gauges to do the necessary work on your gun .. I did work for S&W for their call back on the n frame and k frame rev. for the police agencies in this area. I replace the parts needed and test fire the gun to insure that it functions as required then affix my stamp to the frame of the gun to show the work was done.
Let me know if I can help.
Ted
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:37 PM
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I think I found my problem. When I look in the window with the cylinder out i see the hand travels about .030 less in single action vs. double action. Must be an issue where the trigger and hammer meet. Seems like the hammer does not push the trigger enough.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:56 AM
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OK fixed. I studied how the hand rides on the ratchet. There was some slop between the hand and the window. I didn't want to file out the window for an oversized hand. So I put a slight bend in the nose of the original hand. It is perfect now. Thanks for the information guys.
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Old 02-24-2015, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteracerx View Post
WOW thanks for all the quick responses. I did check carry -up as described by Alk8944. With slight drag, the cylinder will not lock up consistently. Its hard for me to have any credibility as no one here knows me. I am not a gunsmith by trade. I do enjoy learning and I have a fully equipped shop. I am not a hack and understand how to safely repair/build firearms. I will be trying to do this job myself. I purchased this 686 cheap so I have no issues trying to fit new parts. The reason I do this work myself is because I paid a good amount of money to a local gunsmith to correct my model 29 that I got used. Long story short he made it worse and I was able to correct it. Thanks
vetteracerx, YOU HAVE CREDIBILITY WITH ME. I'M A CORVETTE GUY MYSELF. I GIVE YOU A GREAT DEAL OF CREDIT FOR TAKING MATTERS INTO YOUR OWN HANDS, AND LEARNING WHAT YOU HAD TO KNOW TO FIX A BOTCHED JOB. . WITH PROPER TOOLS, THE K-BIBLE, PATIENCE, YOUR PROVEN SKILL AND ATTITUDE, I THINK THAT YOU WILL BE SUCCESSFUL. GOOD LUCK…..
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:47 PM
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Thanks one eye joe!
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:20 PM
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Thanks Alk8944, tried your carry up test, worked great...........
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