Ok, this isn't going to be the standard question regarding strain screws and trigger adjustment. I recently purchased a 64-5, my first revolver, and proceeded to take off the Pachmeyer grips and noticed the strain screw had backed out. Thought it strange, did research and found out that they back out due to use. I proceeded to tighten it, but it still protrudes from the grip frame a little more than what I would deem acceptable. I tightened as far as I could without breaking my bit and/or marring the screw. I'm including a picture of the grip frame. Any advice is appreciated. As are any "it's normal, suck it up" comments. Just want to put my mind at ease.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429377749.750322.jpg

Some of them do protrude from frame and it's proper from the Factory. So proper that the wood Department would sometimes make a relief cut on the insides of Target grips.
The strain screw needs to be tight - I would take the 64-5 to Range and check function.

(my whole 2 cents worth )

But if it bothered me I'd file a little off the end of the screw. Is there any special tip on the screw that has to be there.

Warning - I have zero gunsmithing skils at all. Zip, nada...

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

This will not fix the problem.

The head of the screw is larger than the relief in the frame. The shoulder can be cut back (in a lathe) then the screw length shortened to same spec. But if it's under the grips. So what..

That looks normal to me, but it's pretty unusual for it to back out in use, in my experience. In any case, a drop of Loctite should fix it.

New to the OP.. First check up.. probably the original owner did a Bubba trigger job...back it out worked for him...

Vm, that's what I was figuring and, Bigggbbruce, that's kinda the conclusion I was coming to. I was wanting to go for a more classic look and put on some wood grip panels. Those Pachmeyer grippers are ugly. Not to mention that the finger grooves are wrong for my hand. I was "blessed" with smallish hands. Definitely loctite it when I get around to it, scattershot.

I'd skip the loctite.. this is not a big problem.. and as mentioned.. not a normal occurrence..

sounds like you have 10ft.lbs of torque already..

***you good***

According to Jerry Miculek, finger grooves fit 10% of shooters.

Do not grind that strain screw whatever you do. Replacements are hard to find.

The strain screw should measure .605" OAL and .480" under the head for sq. butt and .505" OAL and .380" for rd. butt

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Stang1911

EBAY has thousands!

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Stang1911

Thanks for the lengths, stang1911. Only thing I need now is a micrometer... Finally have an excuse to buy one.

Looks like bubba filed off .040". eBay, here I come.

Don't run out and get a new one just yet. They've varied a bunch for me and the guns pop all primers in double action (except one 10-6 if I remember correctly). I'd take it out and have some fun with it. See how it works, especially in double action as the hammer doesn't go back as far as it would in single action therefor it has less power.

I believe the factory fitted these back in the day. I've taken them out of one gun and had that gun stop working while the original gun never had a hiccup with said screw.

So go shoot it if you already didn't and see what happens. Especially if it's not a defensive gun. If you already bought a new screw, keep the original in the gun and try it but bring the other along to the range to swap out if there's issues.

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Jim

The mainspring doesn't look at full tension. Screw head too big for the hole?? Even if it has been shortened that would make it easier to screw all the way in. Check those measurements stang 1911 was kind enough to send. As for whether it will shoot, I'd bet lunch it WILL.

It does appear that the recess for the screw head isn't as deep as I've seen on other guns, but is probably within spec. There's a range just few miles from my work, so I had some mid-day stress relief. Wasn't able to shoot as much as I would like, as I had to go on my lunch, but I got to shoot. All the primers are dimpled the same and don't appear to have light strikes. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429576897.468094.jpg
Judging by the information you all have graciously shared, I would say the gun should continue to function fine. I would post my paper, but since I'm new to revolvers and have yet to get some grips that fit my hand, I was all over the place. It was quite embarrassing. I swiftly disposed of the evidence too.

I WISH THAT THIS INFORMATION WAS MORE WIDELY KNOWN ! ! ! IT WOULD BENEFIT SHOOTERS WHO LOVE THE TACTICOOL LOOK OF FINGER GROOVED GRIPS, AND SPEND A LOT OF MONEY TRYING TO FIND A SET THAT FITS THEIR HANDS, BUT FINALLY ARE FORCED TO ACCEPT REALITY…..

A COUPLE OF YEARS AFTER I WENT TO AHRENDS SMOOTH TACTICAL CONVERSION GRIPS ON MY ROUND BUTT S&W REVOLVERS, I CAME ACROSS JERRY'S STATEMENT. ANY FEELINGS OF INADEQUACY ABOUT MY INABILITY TO SHOOT FINGER GROOVED HANDGUNS IMMEDIATELY VANISHED…..

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I have a 64-3 that looks just like the photo of your grip screw and frame. Have never had any problems. Have also seen some other S&W that the screw protruded just a little like yours and they never had any problems either.

There is a reamer for making the strain screw hole deeper while maintaining the flat. I personally would never alter the frame of a pistol, just play around with strain screws.

As others have mentioned the screw should be bottomed out, fairly snug (torque anyone?) I've done many so I feel it snug and then mmmph, a little to tighten, not gorilla tight. The tip of the screw can be flat or slightly domed, no diff really. On the few screws that get shorter, either through wear (not often) or some guy filing it down as part of a yocky-dok trigger job, I have used a spent small pistol primer, cleaned out the anvil and all and slip it on the end of the screw, retighten and Bob's yer uncle. Wolff's replacement mainsprings either reduced power or standard is the only other variable for me. I am not capable of sear/ hammer dressing so I guess I am a change-out guy. I have always been able to reduce the trigger pull to my satisfaction. Oh, I do replace the trigger return spring with a Wolff's reduced power spring. They sell a set of three, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen pounds, IIRC. Thus ends my gunsmithing advice, grin.

Caution: a target pistol can have a lighter pull but for self defense I want positive ignition. Believe me, if you get into crisis mode you won't notice the pull, the adrenaline will be flowing. Heck, I've even lost round count while my ears were ringing.