[IMG][/IMG][IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]started on the finishing of this critter. Hope to get to blue this weekend. I have so many of these projects, just cant find the time to finish. And then new ones seem to keep following me home. Will update when its colored and assembled. It was a 100$ model 10 from Illinois ,some agency. It was barreled with K14 6" and sleeved to 32 cal. Then a 32-20 cylinder was installed. the barrel was then ball milled on the rib to match the frame contour. Then the rib was cut down to match the top strap. It will be glass beaded to cut the reflection down. I will install S&W adjustable sights also. It has TT and TH. It was, what I would say, aggressively polished with a final 600 grit to remove all pits and rust. Requiring removal of most lettering. The caliber marking was removed intentionally. The cylinder was final polished with 1000 grit. Any flaws in the pics are just oil or lint.

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"I'm feeling MUCH better now"

[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]Fresh from the tank in the garage. Shiny. Understand this was a Nickel gun with sever pitting but at 100[IMG][/IMG]$ I couldn't leave her so I REALLY went hard to get all the pits out. So this would be classed as an aggressively over polished gun but now she's clean and at least presentable.

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"I'm feeling MUCH better now"

And leave S&W collectors guessing what this could be called and what serial number range this model should fall into. Keep them guessing. Frank

It was a model 10-7 ser. 8d88860 in very poor shape, so I took a 6" barrel off my 14-4 ser. 24k0730. Drilled it out and sleeved it to 32 caliber. Put a 32-20 cylinder I had around in it. Target Hammer, Target Trigger. Then ball milled the barrel to fit the frame profile of the 10. Tyler adapter and fake Ivory's in pre war shape complete the look. I intend to install a Gold bead front on it. Blued it with Oxynate 7 from Brownells . Did most of the polishing with 600 grit Polish-O-ray. then finished with grey SS hard polish. Glued the liner in with Acroglass. Was curious to see if the 285 degree solution would affect the glue but no problems. Hard to see but it actually came out pretty flat, but I did lose all barrel and frame stampings due to the pitting.

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Nice job of making a clunker into a nice piece. I love projects like this. I am currently making a messed up 1917 into a adjustable sighted 4" with a cut down 1950 barrel. I would like to find a junker K frame for a project I have in mind.

I was thinking about lining a barrel by drilling and reaming the original barrel then turning the liner down to .0005 larger diameter and then heating the outer piece to about 400f and soaking the over length liner in kerosene and dry ice (-100f) and quickly pressing the cold and shrunk liner into the heated and swelled shroud. Should get a tight shrink fit. Going to try it with some tubing first.

No collectable guns were harmed in this project.

The closer the fit the nicer it looks from the muzzle but I would be cautious as to the length being pressed in. The liners are aircraft steel tubing, the ones I have anyway, which are hammer rifled there are others that are different steels. Maybe a 32 barrel blank which might be stiffer. In the past most were soldered and you only see it from the muzzle, but I understand from a purely show of technical ability stand point. Have fun.

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Nice to see what projects people have and how they come together. Looks good. Thanks for the show and tell,I am going to have to find out more about barrel liners.

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Hue 68 noli me tangere

The gun came out nice, wish I had the ability to do some of the projects I see here. How hard was the blueing? I have a 34 with a 2" bbl someone started to sand and I'd like to refinish it myself. It's my woods gun while hunting. Larry

Redman's Rifling & Reboring: Gun Barrel Relining Barrel liners: breech loading rifle bore liners - Track of the Wolf Here are a couple of starters for you.

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I haven't had blueing tanks for 30 years so after adding up allthe guns that needed blue I decided it would be cheaper to set up again. I bought most stuff from Brownells including Oxynate 7 their proprietary salts. Having used it in the past I it was easy to start again. You needa well ventilated space preferably with nothing else in it, but I have to admit to doing it in my basement on and old gas range and only two tanks, this was before I knew it WILL rust any thing of iron or steel in the house. Presently I am using a pipe burner for the blue tank and two camp type stoves on LP. These stoves have two large burners and stand about 3 1/2 feet tall. Got them at Gander Mtn. for about 50 bucks each. They seem adequate for the lower temps for cleaner and quench tanks, boiling and 185 degree 1st and second.

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"I'm feeling MUCH better now"

Whoops hit the enter button. Also have blue remover solution to save time polishing. The blueing tank is your critical one you keep the temp at 295 by adding water or salts depending on if its cool or hot, not by changing the heat supply. You use about 1 and 3/4 bottles of distilled water to about 30 lbs of salts. Brownells has every thing you need and plenty of help also. OXY 7 gives a very black coloring and as good as factory toughness. I have not used any other brands so no info there. One nice thing is once you have the setup you will do very little cold blue, and then it will all match. Some cast mettles will come out red and you can get an additive or play with the temps. I have had some luck with leaving the part in during the cool down. And it is very pleasing to put in white and get out deep color....

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I've thought about re-lining a revolver barrel, always wondered how well it worked in a revolver. I know it works OK in semiautomatics with an integral chamber, but suspected that the liner might work its way out under firing in a revolver. I know some use Loctite plus setscrews to hold the liner in place, apparently it works OK. Just had a Lothar Walther liner installed in a .22 pistol.

Actually may be a problem with Hi Velocity rounds I don't know but 32-20 isn't really high pressure. Well see after I shoot it for a while.

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What kind of an end mill cutter are you using for the slot for the rear sight elevation stud? And where did you get it?

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S&WCA 1729

I have cut a couple of fixed sight guns for adjustable sights, I have never found a good factory cutter for the slot the little square nut for the rear sight elevation screw. I made one by carefully regrinding a small 2 flute endmill. I left about 1/16" of the end alone and used thin disks in a dremel tool to remove the area above it back on both flutes so I ended up with 2 cutting teeth and after a couple practice runs on a piece of junk steel I found it works fine. First use a small regular end mill to cut the center portion where the nut slides to the correct depth, then use the reshaped cutter to under cut the sides for the edges of the nut.

Redmans are button rifles IIRC.

The ones Track of the Wolf sells are actually made by TJ Enterprizes in VA.
They are excellent liners and used by many of the gunsmiths doing this work. Hammer forged instead of button rifled.
They even have the left hand rifling in the Colt SAA calibers.

Directly from TJ's they are a little less expensive than the price from TOTW.
No website, but you can call,,they are very helpful and have a great variety other than what Track lists.
My last contact info is:

"T.J.s Gateway Enterprises"
3652 Neltner Road
Alexandria , Ky 41001

(859) 635-5560 (Mike Sayers)

I use epoxy yet to install liners, but many now use Loctite. A shaft & bearing locktite compound is generally used, not one made for simple screw fasteners. Can't remember the # of it, but some searching on the subject will get the answers.

For a revolver bbl, I'd rather make a sleeved assembly. By that I take the old bbl and cut the threads shank off and bore it out to accept a sleeve. The sleeve is another bbl complete w/the threads (and a good bore of course!). The section from the frame forward is turned down to just slide into the old bbl. A small shoulder is left to butt against the frame and can be countersunk so it doesn't show.

2152hq thanks for the info I believe its the green Loctite. How about some pics of the next one you do. I know what your saying but there are others. Steeslaver. yes a home made cutter made from a dovetail tool. I have never seen a real cutter from anyone, probably longevity issues. Its a very easily broken tool.

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Yes I intend to cut this one for an adjustable rear sight also.

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"I'm feeling MUCH better now"