I have three J-frames: a Model 30, a Model 38, and a Model 642-2.

The 30 is a breeze to open. The latch doesn't take much effort at all.

Th 38 is tougher to open. I can open it but I've found that older women can't.

The 642 is a tough even for me to open.

Any way to make the cylinder latch "softer"?

Is the extractor rod screwed in all the way? My 625-6 and 625-9 were both like that. i just had to tighten the rod all the way.

There is enough variation in the parts involved in cylinder lockup to cause what you describe. Ideally all revolvers should operate like your model 30; perhaps a gunsmith can slick up the other two to match.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

First, you need to be specific about the problem. Is the "Thumbpiece" (There is no such part as a "cylinder release" on a S&W revolver) hard to push, or is the cylinder hard to push out of the frame once the thumpiece is pushed forward? These are two totally separate issues.

First, open the cylinder and look at the end of the "bolt". This is the pin you see in the center of the breech face. Is it flush with the breech, or is it below flush? If flush that isn't the problem. If it is below then the bolt (attached to the thumbpiece) isn't pushing the centerpin far enough to disengage the "locking bolt", the beveled pin in the barrel lug that engages the front end of the extractor rod, fully out of the end of the center pin. This could be the result of improper fitting of the bolt, or debris inside the action blocking the bolt from full motion. Remove the sideplate and clean the action and see if this fixes the problem. Be sure to get the area between the front of the bolt and the frame.

The other problem can be a loose extractor rod as mentioned above. Tighten it. The centerpin can also be short, or the extractor rod too long. If the centerpin is not flush, or slightly above, the end of the extractor rod then the locking bolt isn't completely disengaged and is catching on the locking bolt. The front end of the extractor rod needs to be shortened slightly to fix the problem. This is the most likely cause of the cylinder sticking when you try to open it.

To check the extractor rod length remove the cylinder from the gun and hold it vertically on a hard, flat surface to push the centerpin fully flush with the rear face of the extractor center bearing. While holding the cylinder feel the front end of the extractor rod. If you can feel the rim of the extractor rod when moving your finger over the end of the extractor rod it is too long. The end of the centerpin should be at least flush, and if it is you will not feel the rim of the extractor rod, but your finger will slide freely over the centerpin/extractor rod gap. The extractor rod needs to be trimmed slightly until yo don't feel the drag anymore. The extractor rod must be fit to work correctly, and even the factory doesn't seem to do a very good job of it! Hardly anyone replacing a damaged extractor rod even has the slightest idea the replacement needs to be fit and just installs it as received!

The extractor rod can be trimmed with a fine file or a stone such as an "India" in fine grit. Smoother stones, like "Arkansas", are simply too fine and will not cut efficiently. Best is to remove the extractor rod from the gun and either face it in a lathe or chuck it a drill press and place a fine file or piece of abrasive paper on the table. This will assure the end of the extractor rod stays square. Usually only .002-.003". rarely as much as .005" needs to be removed so don't get too carried away.

While centerpin springs vary in tension I have never seen one so heavy that it could be said to cause the thumbpiece to be so hard to push that it would cause hard opening.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

I know but I've given up worrying about the varying names from the different manufacturers.

The problem seems to be with the centerpin spring because it seems harder to push the centerpin in with that gun than the others.

Someone may have had the side plate off and got the screws mixed up. The screw that holds the crane in is different than the other screws and can easily be mixed up..That will cause your problem and easy r to remedy before you cause much damage....

I took the side plate off and I haven't mixed those screws up in 30 years. (But I did many years ago)

To sum up the observations in response to Alk's comments . . .

It's the thumbpiece. Once the thumbpiece is pushed forward, the cylinder flips right out with little effort.

Nice and flush.

It doesn't seem loose.

Centerpin protrudes slightly above the extractor rod.

Using the uncalibrated Mk 1 Mod 0 thumb, the 642 centerpin takes considerably more force to push in than the Model 30's. I have no problem opening the Model 38 but a 70ish woman in my last class did have problems. I'm pretty sure that she wouldn't be able to get the 442 open.

Anything to be done to make that spring softer?

ETA: I did notice that where the centerpin rubs the frame when the cylinder opens or closes there is a groove that is worn into the metal of the frame. Not just a bright area but a groove that can be felt.

take the cylinder apart from the ejector rod and extractor, make sure it is all dedurred, smooth, and the ejector rod, extractor ( ratchets) put together properly, the spring should not be that hard to depress that it is cutting a groove in the recoil shield. Can see this more often with steel parts, cutting, grooving alloy frames over time.

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dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

I did something crazy, I contacted S&W thinking that they might say something like "Send it back and we'll fix it." I used their online contact page and got an email back saying that they'd be in touch in three to five days.

It's been two weeks and no contact.

I have had a very few cases where the external thumb piece was not shaped properly on the back side or was not quite thick enough in the same area and this allows the thumb piece to be squeezed against the frame enough to cause binding if tightened very snugly. Turn the screw cap back about a quarter turn and see if it makes any difference.

Also check the internal piece that slides in the slot to make certain it is not slightly bent or has a burr on it or maybe a piece of debris in the channel that obstructs easy movement.

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So long ... Ken

I have a 340pd, 640, 640 Pro series, and 60. Every one of them take a lot of pressure to open. I have dismantled, polished, and cleaned them all, and nothing has made them open with any less pressure on the thumbpiece.

I've figured out that the centerpin spring is significantly stiffer than it is on my other J-frames. Stiff to the point that the centerpin is cutting a groove into the recoil shield.

Good news. I just talked to S&W and they are sending me a mailing label so ship it back to them.

Good luck! I hope they get it done right for you. I expect they will.

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So long ... Ken