Looking for an easier/better way to get the burn rings off instead of using scotch brite.

Best way is to use a proper firearm cleaning solvent, let it set briefly, then gently agitate with a bronze, brass or nylon brush. This will get rid of most of the carbon; what remains you should learn to love -- scotchbrite pads, polish or Lead Away cloths with some aggressive use will remove all the carbon, and some metal, too. This is fine for that one perfect, pre-sale cleaning, but regular removal of metal from the face of your cylinder for purely aesthetic reasons is not advised.

I agree with Hapworth and and EVEN IF YOU DO remove the cylinder marks the very next time you shoot the gun they will return after only ONE cylinder full of ammo.

An actual benefit from the build up on the cylinder face is that on modern S&W Revolvers that have a Barrel / Cylinder Gap of more than .006" the build up could actually increase velocity of bullets because in effect the Gap has been decrease. I know that's not the intended purpose or affect, but it is what it is..........

When the build up becomes just too much, a pencil eraser (in a pinch) will also be an efficient way to remove the carbon & lead build up. Just take care to wash out (with solvent) any eraser shreddings that might fall into the ER Spring housing in the Cylinder. Works best with Cylinder removed from Revolver.

Soak the cylinder in M-Pro 7 for a half and hour and then use a cloth to move the carbon off. Repeat as needed. This stuff really works.

I use the lead away cloth. It takes everything off but the rings are back as soon as I shoot the gun again. Honestly I hardly ever use it anymore unless I feel like it. Really just cosmetic.

If the rings don't come off my guns with a brass toothbrush and solvent, they don't get removed.

Another vote for the lead-away cloth. One lasts forever. If you cut a patch from it and use a brass jag it also does a great job getting lead out of your barrel without scrubbing forever.

Kleen-Bore Lead Away Gun Cleaning Cloth

I use a lead away cloth wrapped over a small plastic laminate sample. An old credit card would work too. Cleans way quicker than wrapping the cloth around your fingers.

Please don't use a Scotch-Brite! Too aggressive and abrasive. Use the Birchwood-Casey Lead Away cloth and patience.....

Stop using abrasives! This stuff works

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Stang1911

Besides the 'lead away' cloth, I have some stuff I bought as case of years ago-- I find it works wonders, but I think the maker didn't have their marketing in order. Be that as it may, I have plenty, but as with lead away, do not let near any bluing.

+1 on lead away, works great

I use CLP and a bronze brush with good results.

I use the lead away cloth. Not good on blueing, but good on stainless.

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Kevin in Oregon

The answer to the OP's question is "you don't, and you certainly NEVER use scotchbrite or any other abrasive on your guns." Ever.

If you don't want burn rings, don't shoot it.

That said, if you just have to have a SAFE way to remove them, buy the Jerry Miculek video where he shows what he does when he cleans a Model 64 that has had many thousands of lead bullets fired since its last cleaning. The revolver looks so dark all over its surface it could pass for dark gray or black. In just a few minutes, the whole revolver was clean, and no more burn rings. And no voodoo either - no scotchbrite, sand paper, steel wool, electric drills or any other nonsense that you typically see recommended for this job.

Abrasives remove metal - perhaps not much with each use, but it adds up, and why would you want to knowingly increase the barrel cylinder gap so that your revolver appears to be one that has had 100,000 rounds fired through it by use of an abrasive that is not recommended.

Sorry, but a revolver which has had that "one perfect, pre-sale cleaning" is easy to spot.

Seeing a revolver which has had that one perfect pre-sale cleaning does not cause me to think "wow, an unfired revolver worth the price." Instead, it causes me to assume the seller is trying to cover something, even if it is just the firing of many, many thousands of rounds, rather than the usual gun show refrain of "this revolver has only had a couple of boxes of ammo fired through it."

In most cases, a revolver that has been cleaned in such manner is a "deal killer" for me.

Who said anything about passing it off as unfired? I was talking about cleaning something nicely before a sale.

Agree 100%. The C4 Carbon Remover is awesome and it takes the rings right off my 686.

I make sure there is no residue left and ignore the burn ring, it will just return the next time you shoot it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

On stainless guns only, I have occasionally used 4-0 steel wool. Cuts the crud right off.

But, I'll have to try the carbon remover that others have recommended.

I use the brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. Quick and easy.

Blitz cloth is amazing stuff and takes care of those rings with little effort. I've never understood why it's not better known in the gun community.

I would never advise using steel wool on a stainless steel firearm. Plenty of info on it out there if you're interested.

I was fussing with trying to get the stains off and my wife gave me a Shaklee product to try that is used to clean burned crud off kitchen metals, stainless, copper, etc. It is very mildly abrasive, but you just have to rub it a few seconds and the stains are gone. Put your finger in a cloth, dampen it slightly, put some cleaner on it and rub gently and the stains melt right off. It's had several names but the latest is I think, "scour off". Don't let the 'scour' name put you off. The stuff is amazingly gentle and made for metals like stainless.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Flitz.....

Why do people obsess over this?

Buy another revolver in blue. The mix of colors adds character.

Only reason I can think of is they are obviously not shooting it enough.

Nevr-Dul and KG-12.

Bruce

On stainless revolvers, I use the C4 carbon remover and one of the stainless toothbrushes made for cleaning guns.

Flitz....Great and it comes off easy

I use J-B from Brownells. Just dip a Brass Brush in it and the carbon comes right off.

My feeling exactly. On my guns it is just going to happen again so I don't worry about it.

I have found that after getting the face of the cylinder spotless, it is easy to clean after firing if it has a light coat of Corrosion-X on it. Most residue wipes right off and what doesn't comes off with some Hoppes No 9 ~if~ you give the solvent a few hours to act. I don't like to use abrasives, even something like Flitz. If you don't get in a hurry you'll be surprised at how many popular solvents will work if you give them some time.

I wish I could remember the name, but in the mid-90's there was a cleaner you could get by the tube (the foil metal kind like super glue comes in, just much larger), its consistency was somewhere between a paste and a cream, and had an off white, slightly pink color. I used it frequently to clean the rings off of a S&W 657 4" I had back then. When used with a stiff toothbrush, it did a pretty decent job of getting the carbon off. I just wish I could remember the name of that stuff....

Don't laugh, just try soaking it in rubbing alcohol, then a light buff with a paper towel.

The only cleaning solvent I use any more. But I still like the smell of Hopies!

Call me OLD school, but I always used a pencil eraser. I did see some good ideas in reading the previous posts and will give them a try.

A nylon brush and chrome polish removes them with a minimum of abrasion. I never use metal brushes on guns any more.

because we can....

I don't.............They are just gonna come the next time you pull the trigger.

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S&W Accumulator

Lead Away is pretty abrasive. I used it twice and was not impressed.

I use a two-step process:

1. Use Hoppe's "Elite" Gun Cleaner (pump spray - no ammonia) with a medium tooth brush and a reasonable amount of "elbow grease".


2. This should remove most of the carbon. If any carbon remains, then use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish with the medium tooth brush. Be sure to run a patch down the cylinders several times to remove any residual polish.

Works every time.

Now the bad news - just as the other forum members have already mentioned, the next trip to the range will bring you all the way back to Square #1. Kinda makes you cringe a bit when that first round goes down range with that spotless cylinder face.

I also have a brass tooth brush, but it is very abrasive and is by no means the best or even preferred solution for me. I rarely, if ever, use it. The two steps above should work just fine for anyone.

Note: After cleaning that cylinder face and the cylinder bores I always dry off the cylinder, the area under the extractor star, and then add two small drops of oil on the extractor rod at the bearing point just in front of the face of the cylinder.

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That's what we do!

I found a really mild cleaner for kitchen metals that comes from Shaklee. I'm not worried about removing metal because it works so quick and easy that it doesn't have a chance to harm anything.

I have an idea. We know before we go to the range that the stout loads are going to burn the front of our cylinders. Anybody ever try putting something on the face of the cylinder like a little wax or maybe petroleum jelly? Teflon spray? Pam????

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

...I don't. What won't wipe off with a good solvent, stays...

Exactly! There is no reason to worry about these rings unless there is significant buildup. When you clean the gun, dab bore cleaner on them and let the cylinder sit for awhile. Rub the cylinder face with a cloth and any excess material will be removed.
No need to obsess over the rings. They are normal.

Semi Chrome -- It removed the blue discoloration off the exhaust pipes of my 1967 750 CC Norton Scrambler!

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S&WHF 366

Ed's red and the "free" toothbrushes my goofy dentist gives away.

The best way is a lead cloth. It really is like a miracle from the heavens. Its 8 bucks, and it will take the toughest, oldest lead and debris off. Use a bit of elbow grease and small sections of the cloth as you clean each part of the chambers. No other tricks needed.

They're great, but best for only occasional use -- they remove metal, too; and of course, never use one on a blued gun.

I guess i would only deep clean that part with that cloth for long term storage, if youre going to sell it, or every few months so no damage gets done, if any. Not daily or weekly though.

KG-1 Carbon Remover is one of a few very aggressive carbon removal products and what I use when standard solvents aren't getting the job done.

Bruce