Unless there is another list somewhere I'm hoping that next guy is me

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Oops sorry Kerry. Looks like the tracking puts the reamer in Elizabethtown last night. Larry

I took the easy way out and sent my 351C back to the factory for them to exam and fix whatever might need fixing.

It's there, but I have no idea when it will be done or sent back. Since it's a plinking gun, more or less, I'm not in a rush.

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I used the clymer reamer on 617, very easy with brownells Do-Drill work s like it should now. only had one gun to do so I sold reamer to forum member .

have also done the 11 degree forcing cone to stop the spitting of lead. works great now and will be getting rid of that tool soon as well.

S&W should start selling a revolver kit similar to a 80% AR since you have to purchase all the tools to make them right. A box of parts and you finish it your self. Its only old Smiths for me from here on.

Old Smiths can have all the same problems.

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How many guns can done with a reamer before its dull and can they be resharpened? Assuming no one abused it.
If feasible add me to the list.
My Mod. 17 is bad.

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At this point I think I'm next after Kerry (kraynky), then looks like I'll be sending it to you.

So right now unless I've missed something the order is

kraynky
BC38
Acorn

My 34 isn't as bad as the Rossi 70.
I did this once before on a High Standard Double Nine. Made a world of difference.

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Well that's odd, I just now looked it up & it said delivery expected on July 6th. Oh well, it'll get here when it gets here I suppose.
Kerry

Tracking service says it arrived at 11:30 today Larry! Depending on when I get released from work, I don't expect it to take anymore time than yours did. Then it's off to BC38.

I don't know how long one should last, but I've never been one to be shy on using cutting oil when drilling or reaming. I think most 22's just need a tick of cleaning up and truing out, so I'd say that one should last a good while. I only have a 17-2 to clean up, so I doubt I hurt it any.

Thanks again to "Joe K" for being so generous! I'll be shooting my 17 once again!

Now if we could just find someone willing to donate a reamer in .452"

Yeah as long as everyone is generous with the oil I would expect one reamer to do dozens of cylinders.

On the High Standard I reamed the "cuttings" literally looked more like filings and there really wasn't even much of that. Collected all together for 9 cylinders it might have been a pile of filings about 1/4" in diameter - maybe a couple of grains worth, max.

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I’ve had my K22 since early 60s, got it NIB on a trade. It has extracted hard ever since. The K22 impressed a lot of guys with its accuracy. Not many had a handgun and if they did it was a H&R, IJ or such. The only time I shoot enough that extraction is a problem is targets. I wouldnt ream my cylinders and chance loosing accuracy. I keep it clean and put up with it.

Reaming the chambers to SAAMI specs won't change the accuracy. Recutting the forcing cone and muzzle crown is likely to increase accuracy.
Can't hurt, might help. Your gun, your call.

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BC38, is the reamer gonna go to acorn? Want to keep it going to who ever needs it.

Yessir it is.

I just finished doing both my cylinders.

BTW, I thought about doing the cylinders on my M43 (aluminum) but I'm thinking that might not be a good idea. Seems like it would be too easy to take off too much material.

Anybody ever reamed an aluminum cylinder before? Good idea? Bad idea?

Acorn, PM me your address so I can get the package headed your way.

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You won't take off too much material, but if the alum. is anodized (very likely) it would remove the coating and may dull the reamer. Anodizing is aluminum oxide, which is a very hard material.

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The cylinder bores wouldn't be anodized - would they?
I know the exterior of all the parts are, including the cylinder, but I wouldn't expect the bores to be.
I suppose they could be though.
I probably shouldn't risk it.

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Please add me to the list. Both my K22 and model 18 could use a touch up.

Thanks.

I heard from Customer Service today on the 351C I sent back about a month ago. It has been determined to be unrepairable and they will be sending me a replacement under warranty. I just have to designate a FFL to take delivery and they will send it along in a couple of weeks.

An interesting note in the email was that if there were any aftermarket items, such as grips or sights that I wanted from the old guy to let them know and they would send them to me.

It's probably still prudent to remove any of those items before sending a gun in for evaluation and repair, but it's good to know that they acknowledge that people do add items to their guns sometimes.

I'm really surprised that they are replacing the firearm. I expected that they'd ream the chambers or maybe replace the cylinder if it was some other sort of issue.

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I am surprised that they are making you go to a FFL to pick up the replacement. They are allowed by law, to send the replacement directly back to you, as you are the original owner. In my personal experience, in your situation, they destroy the original receiver, and put the same SN# on the new replacement receiver, which allows them to do this. The only reason I can think of involving a FFL, is they picked a new revolver from stock to send back to you, and need a 4473 form, to reconcile the different serial numbers.

It's the same thing they did back in 2012 when the replaced my original 442 in Satin Nickel with a 642 due to a frame crack. Brand new production gun with a new SN. In that case, I don't think that they could transfer the SN because the guns were not identical.

In this case, I think they are picking one out of stock. The email included a SKU number which I forget off hand.

Either way, a brand new gun is good customer service.

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Can open, worms everywhere.

A new serial numbered gun must go via FFL. If not the law it’s S&W policy afaik. . I’ve had it done that way.

Get a receipt from your FFL for any transfer fee, S&W will pay for that.

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Sure you did

Well after a very busy summer I am finally getting around to giving a report of how it went when I reamed the cylinders on a couple of my K22s. I have four of them but only 2 had problems of fired cases sticking in the cylinders. Oddly enough it was the oldest one, 1952, and the newest, 617-1, that needed the reaming. My 17-2 works perfectly fine with all ammo that I have tried as does the 4 screw that I have so no work was done on those. I mentioned earlier in the summer that after I reamed the stainless 617 that I was still having some problems with ejection with some brands of ammo, in my case it was anything made by RWS. While all brands dropped in easily the RWS just didn't want to eject without a fight. At that time someone mentioned that it could be the way the brass was annealed, with some brands being harder and some softer allowing for differing degrees of expansion and contraction which would determine whether the case would stick or come out easily. Well, in my not so expert opinion, I think that is exactly what the problem was. After reaming the 617 and still having the sticky cases I used a 22 bore mop loaded up with Meguiars Mag polish to polish each chamber for about 30 seconds each. After doing that I had no trouble whatsoever with extraction of any brand of ammo I have tried, whether or not the cylinder had any oil in it. The amount of oil, or lack thereof, in the cylinder seemed not to make any difference. The '52 K22 that also had problems with brass sticking exhibited the exact same scenario as the 617. I reamed first, extraction was a little better but not great, then I polished and everything worked just as it should. Both of these guns needed the exact same procedure to get the best results. So, I don't know if there may be some other reasonable explanations as to why my guns acted this way or not, but it seems to me that with both doing the exact same thing with the exact same ammo that the problem was with the ammunition as much or more than with the guns. Whatever the reason for the sticky ejection I am happy to say that I can now go out and shoot any amount of any brand of ammo and not have any problems! Thank you to all who have posted information in this thread! It certainly has helped me to enjoy my S&W K22s even more since reading it.

There should be no 4473 needed. Even though it'll have a different serial number. It's just a grab n go. I had a ruger that was replaced by the factory. No paperwork, nothing.

Sorry I never came back and posted that I decided against reaming the aluminum cylinder and sent the reamer on to Acorn, so if anyone else needs it he's the man to contact - unless he's already sent it on to the next guy.

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If they offer a hone I’d rather do that

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Offer on Use of Reamer Still Stand? would Love to use it on My 17-4 thats been sitting in the safe due to sticky extraction

Acorn? Where is the reamer? I picked up a K22 that needs some attention, so now there are a couple of us who need to use it...

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On a related note, I bought a second cylinder for my New Model Ruger Bearcat and re-chambered it to .22 Magnum. I rented the reamer from 4D. Everything went well, except that my tap handle didn't fit. If you rent from 4D, rent their handle too.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Whoever is Next in line feel free to PM Me, I did My 17-4 & a Colt Diamondback & ready to send it to the next person in line

It's on It's way to BC38

Cool! I'll do the old K22 I picked up recently and then on to the next guy!

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I have a 1952 K-22 that is mildly tight but useable. My problem child is a 4-screw M-48 that is unusable after 2-3 cylinders of ammo, at best. I suppose the .22 mag would be a different, longer reamer, eh?

Yeah, the 22 mag is a longer reamer, just as you suggest.
I'm not familiar with the M48 - is that a K-frame?

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Interesting thread and very informative.

I had both a Model 17 and a Model 18 in my LEO career. I thought that they would really be good practice guns to simulate my Model 19 belt gun. Both would become unshootable after 30 rounds or so. Both went down the trail. I wish I would have known the above info 45 years ago.

I recently bought a virtually unfired Model 17-3 circa 1971 and guess what? It is a dream to shoot. No issues at all with easy extraction after close to 100 rounds. Wish I would have had this one back in the day.

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Yes, the model 48 is just a K-22 in .22 WMR chambering.

Too bad. I have a couple of 6-shot 22WMR speed loaders I don't need, but they are for a J-frame. They won't hold 22LR due to the slightly smaller diameter rims.

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I love this thread and everyone sharing and passing the reamer on along to whoever needs it. Great team work!

Is the reamer accounted for? I used it and sent it along.
Just don’t want anyone thinking I kept it.

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Yes I used it & sent it To BC38

Glad to see the reamer is being passed around and somehow keeps going. Hopefully it has a lot of life left, Larry

FYI, the Brownells forcing cone cutter handle is a perfect fit for the mentioned Manson .22 reamer. I found that I saved about $40.00 by not having to buy a new reamer handle.

I've got a question here. I've got a Model 17-5, 6" barrel. After cleaning, when loading, all six rounds drop in effortlessly, and eject easily. After loading four or five times, I notice it is more difficult to eject.

As a test, yesterday, I ran a brush through each chamber, and the gun was good as new, for a while.

I cleaned it last night, ran the brush, then patches through the cylinder, and earlier this morning I ran a "foam pad" with a few drops of Hoppe's oil on it, then took a photo. To me, visibly, it looks like the chamber has one diameter for the length of the case, and perhaps has a tighter diameter for the rest of the cylinder - but this might just be an optical illusion?

At any rate, if when the gun is clean, new rounds drop in with no effort, I don't think I would want to use a reamer on my cylinder. It sounds to me more like a dirt/debris problem, which is instantly fixed by running a wire brush through each chamber, bringing things back to the way they were after cleaning.

This has happened with CCI ammo in the past, and with Eley bulk 22 ammo yesterday - but again, I had no problems shooting, just running a brush through the chambers if things started to feel "tight" again.

I'll post a photo of the back of the cylinder after cleaning.

Attached Images

IMG_4026.jpg (51.2 KB, 28 views)

Not all guns are the same. Some need a reamer, some need a brush.

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I had the sticky chamber problem and bought the reamer from Brownell's a few years ago. No keeping my shop well organized I ended up buying another reamer for my next revolver. I highly recommend this solution.

Lots of cutting oil and go slow. Proof is in the pudding as they say. Today I shot a Steel Challenge Match that requires 39 reloads. Not once did I have a case stick in the cylinder.

It's been working like that since I did the job.

It also helps to find the right ammo. I use Federal HV and even though it's lead with lots of wax on it I have no problems. I also use CCI BYOY which are plated. They go in and come out even faster.