You can come close to simulating the original finish with various grades of "Scotchbrite" with gray and white usually being recommended. Green is entirely too coarse!
But, you cannot "re-finish" the gun like a factory finish unless you have the knowledge and equipment to "Passivate" the parts after you get done polishing with the Scotchbrite. Passivation etches out free Iron molecules that are left exposed on the surface by polishing. It is these free Iron molecules that are exposed and cause stainless steel to be susceptible to rusting! It is the passivation which leaves the metal with the slightly cloudy appearance that almost looks like a coating on the metal.
Unless these are safe queens, they will soon re-acquire minute scratches and handling marks. Your guns, do what you please, but I would shoot, carry, clean, use the things and not worry too much about a pristine appearance. As others have noted, it is difficult to achieve the look of the factory original finish with any method you can use at home.
After many years of a M60 no dash riding in an ankle holster I decided to Flitz it using nothing but an old Tee shirt. No power tools and no Scotchbrite pad. I checked the results often and decided to stop when I reached a high satin sheen. Not ultra shinny like Nickel, but a nice soft sheen.
I can't show a picture since I sold it 22 years ago and bought a M60-7. Came out very nice and did not really look like it was refinished.
I'd suggest trying the Flitz before going to Scotchbrite - which you can always do if you don't like the Flitz results.
Advise needed on S&W stainless steel finishing
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