Someone suggested that I post this here, instead of in the Smith & Wesson Revolver Forum. I recently purchased a Spring Kit from Jerry MiCulek for my Smith & Wesson Model 66. All I did was remove the factory grips, the side plate, loosened the main spring screw, removed the spring, lifted up and replaced the coil spring and put everything back together. After tightening the main spring screw, now I can't even cycle the trigger, with-out first pushing the trigger forward some with my finger. I took it back apart, and put all the factory springs back in it. Now it won't cycle at all. HELP !

MrT182

The spring kit has to be balanced. You need to loosen your strain screw until you get good trigger release. I know, many people will not like to loosen the strain screw but that is the only way to make it work.

When you are done and have the light action you are looking for use some BLUE loctite on the strain screw to keep it from backing out.

Another method is to use your calipers and measure how much the top of the screw is now resting away from the frame. Next, grind down the stain screw to that size so you can keep the strain screw as tight as possible. ( It helps to have a second screw. You can also use an 8/32 bolt and do the same, Loctite or cut to length.

If the revolver won't cycle at all you have something mucked up. One thing we really need is detailed pictures of the lockwork with the sideplate removed. Otherwise anyone replying is just guessing. You may also find it helpful to simply observe the lockwork with the sideplate removed to see if you can spot a bind or something catching. Note, it's just a guess but I have a hunch that you may not have the stirrup on the hammer properly oriented on the mainspring.

I will also note that I don't advise using a glue to secure a Strain Screw that will stay tight when properly fitted. Properly tuning a S&W revolver is quite simple to do but it is more involved than simply swapping some springs. You also need some method of measuring the DA trigger pull with either calibrated weights or a trigger gage. Because I don't know anyone on the planet capable of actually measuring the real force by "feel". Some can get within 1/2 pound due to experience but when 1/2 ounce can mean the difference between misfires and reliable ignition accuracy does matter.

I just took it all apart again, the small part that the top of the main spring fits into was not in the grove. I put in back, retightened the main spring and replaced the side plate. Now the trigger works fine on single action when I cock the hammer back, but after it fires, I need to push the trigger forward a small amount for it to reset itself. Now what ?

Did you replace or alter the trigger return spring? That would be the little coil spring that is inside a sort of square housing just above and to the rear of the trigger. After rereading your post I think you did. Many of those kits come with different return springs of different strengths. I suspect you went too light and need to install the next heavier spring.

All good thoughts here. Beyond that, the safety bar /other part, could be rubbing on the side plate/ or otherwise improperly installed. Since you need to go in again anyway, take the side plate off and hold the frame sideways ( Gansta style :-) with the opening facing up. Then try slowly cycling the action to and watch closely what is happening.

ps. I've personally never had reliable operation with the JM kit mentioned. I generally leave the main spring as is and replace the trigger return with a 13 or 14# return along with a little polishing of the slide etc.

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Dave

The Part I ordered is MIC-625, Miculex S&W Revolver Spring Kit fits K,L, and N frame revolvers. I left the stock main spring in, and only replace the coil spring. When compared to the stock spring it is about an 1/8 of an inch shorter. I have a Lyman Trigger Pull Gauge, and I am getting 9 lbs 4 ozs. on double action and 3 lbs 1 oz on single action. Everything feels fine, except I need to push the trigger forward after every time the trigger is pulled.

That's your problem. I'd have done it the other way around. Changed the mainspring and left the return spring alone. I usually put in a little bit lighter return spring and polish the bearing surfaces of the housing. The one you put in is way too light.

epj has it correct, that small coil spring is the Rebound Spring in proper terminology but it's job is to return the trigger. That new spring of yours is just too short. So replace it with the original.

BTW, the Rebound Spring has little effect on the Double Action trigger pull but a large effect on the weight of the Single Action trigger. To lighten the DA trigger pull what you adjust in the Mainspring, either by replacing it or by grinding the Strain Screw a tiny bit shorter. Note, grinding just 0.020 inch off the length of the Strain Screw can lighten the DA trigger pull by a full 2 lbs. so it's advisable to keep spares on hand. If you want to lighten the SA trigger then what you do is replace the Rebound Spring with a lighter one, my preferred weight for a rebound spring is 14 lbs. made by Wolff Springs. Note the Wolff Rebound Springs are full length springs and I have no idea why someone with as much experience as Jerry Miculek would be selling a cut Rebound Spring, that method of modification went by the wayside when Wolff started winding springs with thinner wire.

Yep, it's properly called the rebound spring. Hadn't had my coffee yet. If you lighten the mainspring, either by replacement of the spring or shortening the strain screw, you need to thoroughly test the gun for light primer strikes, especially in DA. The newer guns with the frame mounted firing pins sometimes don't respond well to a lighter mainspring. I just put a mainspring in my 66-2 that didn't work with my 627 Pro. It seems so far to be ok in the 66, but I'm going to load a few pieces of brass with small rifle primers and make sure they will ignite.

I've had an aftermarket main (with a funky factory bend like the JM one has) pop off that link before. Another reason I use factory mains.

OK, assuming you can dry fire it say 100 times without the main disconnecting again, your likely looking at the small rebound spring as the problem. Try removing it and turning it around. Ive had the face of them deform a touch on install and want to bind/ drag within the rebound slide. If the spring fits backwards OK without dragging and the trigger still needs a push, replace the spring with the factory one again and retry. My guess is either way, your going to need to order another rebound spring.
I don't know the rating on the JM one but I'm betting it's light (12#?) and intended to be installed along with a good polishing of the action. If your not slicking the action a 14# is likely a safer bet.

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Dave

Thanks so much for all the info, tomorrow I'll take apart again and put all the factory springs back in it, then I'll report back here on how it went.

Thanks again for all your input.
MrT182

Just remember, the shooting Miculek does is without anyone shooting back at him. If his ministrations to his revolver(s) does not function properly,it's not a big problem ... just try something else. OK for a range gun, but not for one used for personal protection under any circumstances!

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So long ... Ken

When you put it back together be sure to thoroughly clean the rebound slide and lightly lubricate it so it slides freely in it's track. I like jut a very small dab of moly grease.

If your kit is the one with the bent mainspring, I recently installed one------the entire kit---BOTH springs---exactly in accord with the instructions.

It is merely fantastic! The DA pull is seven pounds (as advertised---and instructed)---and as smooth as warm butter. It runs perfectly.

Ralph Tremaine