I have a revolver with a B/C gap that measures .010 and spits lead. The revolver was made in the late 70's. Will S&W adjust the B/C gap on a revolver this old? I would love to get it down to about .006. Any idea what the cost might be?

Thanks for the reply, Armorer. The revolver is a model 29-2. I understand that S&W has increased the allowed B/C gap in recent times to about .012.
Considering that, my B/c gap would be in spec. However, that seems a bit excessive to me but, they hold the cards. I understand that the barrel would have to be set back in order to reduce the b/c gap. Would S&W do this at my request regardless of the specifications at my expense? What is the spec. for rear gauge measurement? Is it measured from rear face of loaded cylinder to recoil shield at firing pin?
Cylinder take up is good and there is minimal end shake.

If I am not mistaken in the 1970's the MAXIMUM B/C Gap was .006" (not .0012" as it is now). Therefore (technically) the Revolver is NOT in spec according to the original set of specifications when it was built. So unless their spec's are retro, technically it is out of spec - but that being said, back in the 1970's S&W did NOT have a Lifetime Warranty. Bottom line here is I highly doubt if they will eat the repair work on this gun since it was prior to their Lifetime Warranty.

I don't believe S&W specs ever had a max of .006", only that .006" was considered ideal. To my knowledge, .003" to .010" was traditionally the accepted range. For a while, several members reported S&W customer service stating .012" as "in spec", but on a recent customer service call the young woman I spoke with -- who very much impressed me with her knowledge of their revolver line both new and old -- stated that max spec remains .010".

As to OP's questions: I believe S&W will reset B-C gap but you'll be paying out of pocket, and .010" seems a bit "soon" to do so (my gunsmith, who knows and works on S&Ws at the master level, just laughs when I look crosseyed at a .010 gap); and as armorer951 correctly notes, the lead spitting may have nothing to do with the gap, but is worth looking into mechanical correction for if a timing issue is in play.

What you might want to do is contact S&W about the spitting, let them know your concerns about the gap, and discuss sending it in for a complete mechanical refresh returning all specs to factory minimum. The Performance Center will completely inspect the revolver, determine what it needs and contact you with estimates; then you can talk about anything else you might want done. Your gun, your wallet.

Well let's not be to concerned with what the Calipers say and let's get back to the real issue of Lead spitting as the OP has stated. While I am sure we can ALL AGREE that .010" is definitely either at the high end of acceptable or just out of spec, but I would also be getting a hold of a Brass Range Rod and checking alignment of the cylinder to barrel indexing - another cause of Lead spiting. The other item you should check is weather or not the B/C Gap is even on all sides. In other words, weather or not it is cut on an angle. Last but not least is to make sure the Yoke is locking up true and tight.

Going back to the 1970's and early 1980's I got to know Fran Longton, up at S&W pretty well and he always told me that .006" was maximum B/C Gap - but that MIGHT HAVE BEEN HIS personal spec. - don't know as he has long since retired from S&W. I always have followed the .006" max theory and when I go to a gun show or LGS to purchase or check out a Revolver for a friend I carry a 2" x 1/2" piece of .006" shim stock (feeler gauge) in my wallet to check. Most of the vintage Smiths are good to go and the ones that are over the .006" are just barely over - maybe by a thousandth or so.

By Smith now accepting up to .012" says to me they just don't have the skilled labor force or don't want to fix as many guns that are out of the old spec. Easier and cheaper just to change a number I suppose.

Guess you did NOT read my last post very well since I did NOT state you were incorrect. Read it again and you will SEE what I said - MIGHT HAVE BEEN HIS PERSONAL SPEC.

No need for the sarcasm either!

You're absolutely right, I apologize.

This is 2016, and my revolver and semi-auto armorer training and recertifications took place from 1980 to 2000. I have no idea what the current factory spec is, so I shouldn't have put the pre-2000 data up in the first place.

Seems everyone has an opinion about what the correct gauge is, I thought the "from the horse's mouth" info might help.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

No problemo! Happens to the best of us.

it's likely spitting lead because the timing is slow, not a .010 b/c gap