I have a recently acquired 14-4 that has a binding hammer when the sideplate is tightened all the way down. The binding is occurring on the right side against the sideplate. From what I can see on the inside, I believe the problem is that the hammer stud is standing quite proud of the frame on the left side and there just isn't enough room on the right.

I'm thinking that my best option is to send to S&W. I'm fairly competent at some smithing tasks, but...

What say you, Forum Sages?

Thanks in advance!

Prodigal Son

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Could the target hammer be an "add-on", (not the original hammer) and be causing the binding? If you have the box, it should indicate whether the gun was originally fit with a target hammer.

The other possibility would be debris, or a burr either on the frame or hammer boss (raised circular profile at base of pin) under the hammer or on the surface of the sideplate itself. A good cleaning/flushing of the plate and frame interior might remove the debris causing the problem. You could also remove any burr you find at the "contact point" (rub mark) on the sideplate....if the area on the plate where the contact is occuring can be determined.

If the hammer boss at the base of the hammer stud is too high for the hammer, trimming this boss requires a special tool, and would require intervention by a qualified gunsmith or perhaps a trip back to S&W.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Your problem could even be a sear pin that's loose or too long. Without having the revolver to check myself it's hard to say. Armorer 951 is also correct, it could be a new hammer which wasn't fit properly. We would have to see if there are any rub marks on the frame or side plate to really tell what is causing the problem. My best suggestion is that you let S&W handle it, they have the experience and the tools needed to fix the problem.

Safety bar bent or not in place

Thanks for all of your replies. The box does indicate the target hammer and everything else looks to be right. I gave it a thorough cleaning so I don't believe it to be dirt or debris. I'm thinking hammer boss...looks like it's off to S&W.

Thanks again!

Yes, back to the mother ship asap. As Armorer951 said, odds are the 'boss' on the hammer pin is too high. You can see in the pictures that the hammer is off center to the right. Hardly anyone in the pistolsmithing business except S&W has that tool. It could be made by any competent Tool & Die man, but this job comes up so infrequently that the cost of the tool becomes prohibitive. IF I HAD to field correct this problem on this gun only, I would mill a recess on the left side of hammer for the proud boss to mate with using a carbide mill cutter of the proper diameter. Then I would polish the mating surfaces to a mirror like finish. .............

I just had a thought; I have some junk mill cutters of dubious origin (too soft) that I just might be able to drill a hole in the center of the cutter of correct size and depth to go over the hammer pin. I'm going out to my shop and look into that solution. .........

I think Power Customs Sells a Hammer Boss Cutter for about 25-30 dollars.

Good call on Power Custom...I snapped one up.

Thanks for the tip and thanks again for all of the replies.

Prodigal Son

Does anyone know where one of these hammer boss cutters can be purchased? Power Custom sells a trigger boss cutter but they don't list the hammer boss cutter; neither does Brownell's.

Is there a shim on the stud that looks like it’s a high boss? Shims have been used to center up hammers and maybe it was supposed to be on the other side of the hammer.

In my case, no. Can't speak for the other guy(s); this is a super-old thread, anyway, just looking for the tool.

Before shipping back to Springfield or doing any cutting/grinding perhaps it's time to try some hammer shims. Do a search for Power Custom S&W sideplate shims.

The hammer is already binding. Shims would just make it worse.

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protocalldesign.com

Woops. I should have looked at the date.