Trigger won't always go **Update post 9**

[S&W Fan]

I was out with a 67-1 at the range. Hadn't shot it in a few years. Every 20-25 rounds the trigger wouldn't go all the way through to cycle the gun. I would release the trigger which in turned lowered the hammer, open it, turn the cylinder by hand one chamber, close it and go on as if every thing was normal for another 20 or so rounds. then repeat.

I've ordered a couple standard weight Power Rib mainsprings from Wolff (originally for the wayward 19-5 I recently bought) and now thinking I should have one put in this gun. Should that take care of the issue or is there something else going on?

I'm of very limited knowledge of the inner workings of S&W revolvers and I'm going to have a local smith I trust look at it but he's away for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[BruceM]

Have you done any "kitchen table gunsmithing" to the M67, ever?

If no, remove the sideplate, clean all old dirt and goo, relube and try it again.

This may be a dumb question but if you know little to nothing about the mechanics of Smith & Wesson revolvers, why are you ordering aftermarket parts and installing them?

Bruce

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by S&W Fan

I was out with a 67-1 at the range. Hadn't shot it in a few years. Every 20-25 rounds the trigger wouldn't go all the way through to cycle the gun. I would release the trigger which in turned lowered the hammer, open it, turn the cylinder by hand one chamber, close it and go on as if every thing was normal for another 20 or so rounds. then repeat.

I've ordered a couple standard weight Power Rib mainsprings from Wolff (originally for the wayward 19-5 I recently bought) and now thinking I should have one put in this gun. Should that take care of the issue or is there something else going on?

I'm of very limited knowledge of the inner workings of S&W revolvers and I'm going to have a local smith I trust look at it but he's away for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for any suggestions.

A stronger mainspring is likely not the problem. Has the gun been modified before?

[scooter123]

I suspect that the cause of your problem is simply a bad habit in regards to ejecting your fired cases. It's a bad habit I've been "fighting" since the mid 70's. That habit is to NOT turn the revolver so the barrel is pointing straight up and giving the ejector a tap but to instead open the cylinder and push on the ejector and pick out the empty cases. When you do this it is a near guarantee that you'll get a bit of stray powder particles under the ejector that will then cause the cases to rub on the recoil shield. As for why the jam isn't immediate when you fall prey to this bad habit, I'm no sure but suspect that the vibration from firing sometimes allows those stray powder particles to get turned just the "wrong" way. As for the solution, it's real simple. Turn the barrel vertical and pop those empties free.

[Pisgah]

Firing double action? I can't tell for sure from your description. If so, make sure you are allowing the trigger to go fully forward after each shot. Failure to do so can result in a tie-up similar to what you report.

[jimmyj]

1. Check the hammer/sear engagement
2. Check the hammer and trigger studs that both parts swivel on.

[S&W Fan]

Sorry for the incomplete post. Yes, double action shooting mostly though it will also occur more rarely on single action.

No modifications of any kind, got it from the original owner 9 years ago, older gentleman that barely ever shot it.

I'm not comfortable getting into the inner workings, not ignorant of how they work. The mainspring on the 19 has some rust issues so replacing that, figured I'd order a spare at the same time.

I used to race motorcycles, didn't rebuild the motors, left the difficult things for the mechanic. Doesn't mean I don't know how they work, just the limits of my mechanical skills.

I don't think I've been doing anything weird with my reloading method, learned a long time ago in 1978 with the method scooter mentioned, got it reinforced at Gunsite that same year.

I'm waiting for the armorer to get back from his vacation and will be taking it in. Curious what could be causing this.

Thanks jimmyj, appreciate knowing that.

[Nightowl]

This can also happen when there is an endshake issue and the cylinder is too close to the barrel so that firing debris sticks between the two. It takes very little to make it difficult if not impossible to pull the trigger. Once the debris is gone, everything returns to normal. Check the endshake by pushing the cylinder toward the back of the barrel and measure with a feeler gauge, then push the cylinder backwards toward the hammer and remeasure the barrel cylinder gap. You can also look at the front of the cylinder after firing for scratch marks. This is a sure sign of barrel/cylinder interference and a minor correction is necessary.
Do not remove any metal from the back of the barrel to increase the gap. Don't ask how I learned this!!

[S&W Fan]

Here's an update. At breakfast today one of the guys is a retired pd armorer. We talked about it and he said to bring it over to his place. I just got home after bringing him the gun.

He opened the sideplate, everything looked good according to him, he popped in the Wolff standard Power Rib spring, cleaned things up, lightly lubed the internals and we ran 50 uneventful rounds through it.

Go figure. Thanks for all the suggestions, they were appreciated.