I'm hoping somebody might be able help me. I purchased a cheap model 15-8 police trade-in "as is" off gunbroker. The finish and timing are actually better than expected, but there's a weird issue. If I pull the trigger, everything works fine. But if I try to cock the hammer, it goes back about half an inch and then stops cold. If I then pull the trigger back a little, it's like the hammer gets over this block, and I can then pull the hammer the rest of the way until it cocks. I'm baffled how the hammer can freely move if I pull the trigger, but not if I try to cock the hammer itself.

I don't know much about s&w revolvers (that's why I got a cheap beater gun- to get acquainted with them), but I've opened the sideplate and don't see anything obviouly broken or out of place. If anyone has any suggestions I'd be grateful.

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Sounds like the cylinder stop might be "late". Can you check while cocking the hammer back to see if the cylinder stop is being pulled down out of the stop slot in the cylinder before the cylinder starts to rotate?

Also, check to see if the action cycles normally without the cylinder in place. With the cylinder open, hold the thumbpiece back and cycle the action SA and DA. Does it work normally with the cyl. out?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

When cocking the hammer, the hammer is stopping before the cylinder stop moves at all. However, with the cylinder opened and the latch back, the gun does indeed cycle normally, both pulling the trigger and thumb-cocking.

Sounds like an issue with either the bevel on the cylinder stop or the hook on the hammer. Could be wear, or altered or damaged parts, or combination of both.
Due to your statement in your OP, "I don't know much about S&W revolvers", and the fact that these are not "drop in" parts, I would recommend a trip to your trusted local gunsmith, or a call to S&W Customer Service for an evaluation.....1-800-331-0852.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Ok, thanks for your help!

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I developed that exact issue when I went to replace the trigger on an early 70's N frame. Discovered,the replacement trigger was from a newer model and did not fit the thinner diameter trigger stud. Replaced with original trigger and all was fine. Just a thought if someone me one recently replaced the trigger before it came to you. Though the -8 may use the thicker trigger stud.
Good luck.

The cylinder stop is not dropping down soon enough in single action mode. To advance the timing of the cylinder stop, you can remove it and file in the front part of the slots where it fits on the pivot pin with a rat tail needle file. The object of the game is to allow it to scoot back a little closer to the trigger. If you do this, check the other end where it goes up through the frame and make sure that end isn't catching. If it is, you can shorten that part a little to provide clearance.

Your gun needs to go to a gunsmith. There are a number of things that could be happening here and a proper diagnosis is needed. I would never advise someone that is not familiar with the operation of a gun to take it apart and start filing...

Thanks all, I'm going to check with my lgs to see if they know a decent S&W smith around here. I knew I was taking a risk, it's just annoying because if I have to spend money just to get it functional and safe, I would have gone ahead and spent more on a better quality gun. Lesson learned -You get what you pay for.

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The OP asked for help, and I made a contribution. No need to be snarky about it.

Ok, that was unexpected. My local gunsmith took it apart and said everything was fine except that the trigger pivot pin had sheared into two pieces. So now I need to see about getting a replacement. Does anyone know if I can get such a part from S&W or Brownells?

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If it's the frame pin the trigger hinges on that is broken, the gun will need to go back to the factory for repair. I believe the gun will have to be refinshed after the pin is replaced.

Customer Service # is 1-800-331-0852

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Not a picture of my gun, but its the pin with the red arrow thats broken.

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Yep- if the trigger or hammer pivot pin breaks, (I've seen both) it needs to go back to the factory. That's one of the few things I won't work on with my guns.

that ole trigger pivot pin problem will get you every time

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Mike
S&WCA #3065