It is my hope that this question is in the proper location! If not, could a moderator please move it to an appropriate location?

In a number of posts, I have seen respondents comment about waxing stainless steel handguns. Just this morning, I saw reference to waxing a blued revolver in order to "preserve" the finish. I have been around guns all my life, and never heard of this being done to firearms.

Could someone please briefly explain the rationale, and advise what type of wax would be used?

Thanks!

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Judge control not gun control!

I'd be interested in hearing more about this too, since I don't even bother to wax my cars anymore.

Renwax is considered by most to be the best. I've used it on both stainless and blued guns and it's amazing. You'll get other opinions I'm sure but I know it works.

Lot of people do it, and it sure does make them look nice. The best pictures you see here are of waxed pistols. I don't have the time or the inclination to get it done, but I admire those with the time and patience, like I admire most everyone who is in to detail work. I'm more of a rough in guy. Renaissance Wax seems to be popular. I'm sure several practitioners will be along to explain in more detail . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

waxing protects from moisture and fingerprints, and yes stainless guns can rust. i waxed a colt commander 45 that i carried for years as an investigator.
back then i just used what ever type car wax i had, never had any rust .

Thank you for the rapid input of information. Does waxing do anything to help slow the wear of bluing if you are carrying a blued handgun in a holster?

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Judge control not gun control!

as long as the "barrier" provided by the wax remains between the holster and the gun - yes.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Never been to Alaska, huh? That's where I learned that wax lasts 3X longer than oil or grease in the wet coastal areas.

For routine use, I use Johnson's paste floor wax instead of oil or grease on the non-functional external parts of all my firearms. A can lasts for decades. Renwax is harder and more expensive.

Nothing stops holster wear on a blued gun except not putting it in the holster. Some holsters are better than others and wax helps maybe a little. Mostly wax helps prevent rust. Ever see a blued gun rust in 3 days of carry?

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Science plus Art

I use renwax on all of my guns now,on the wood and steel.Works great and it's really no harder to do than wiping a bit on with your fingers and buffing it with an old rag.

I've waxed all of my firearms for many, many years. I have a shotgun as well as a couple of .22 rifles that I used for hunting in my youth that still look good, and no trace of rust nearly 40 yrs. later. I always used whatever car wax was in the garage - usually Turtle Wax.

Regards,

Dave

I quit oiling and started waxing about seven years ago using plain old Johnson's Paste Wax in the big yellow can. Also, Flitz Gun Wax (not the metal polish). The wax really does a much better job than oil or silicone and makes the metal a bit easier to clean.

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Virtue,Liberty & Independence

I'm with you. They sure do look purdy, but I can imagine that doing it right is pretty time-consuming, especially if you shoot those guns a lot. I've gravitated to using One-Shot as my day-in, day-out cleaner and rust protector of choice. I've been told it is a wax-based product and does a great job protecting against moisture on my carry guns.

It makes a blued gun look like you spent an hour with a microfiber cloth,removing all the oil and fingerprints.

If you want your guns to be Purdy, protected and to not show finger prints use Renwax it is a great product. Easy on with your finger and buff off. I use it on Blue, SS, wood grips, stocks etc

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Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda

The key to a good wax job is getting all of the oil and cleaners off first.That takes awhile,waxing only takes a few minutes

Renaissance Wax. Try it, you'll like it! Just saying

I use Acetone for this purpose before waxing. It does the best job of removal that I have found.
Jim

I learned to use wax, whatever car wax was around the house, on my service weapon. It was exposed to the elements and came in and out of the holster often, most notably at the beginning and end of every shift in the locker room. The wax worked very well, my 15 year old Model 15 looked almost new when it was traded for the stainless replacement.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

I bought a 200 ml can of Renaissance Wax but have not tried it yet. Folks say it does the above, however, unlike car waxes, it does not have any additives (so I was told)... Additives could harm the metal or perhaps just make it less shiny, I am afraid I do not know.... Although you can also google it and see what others say

I'm also a new "believer" in Ren Wax. I spent twenty years in the Marine Corps, including time in Southeast Asia (extremely high humidity). We were always taught (and expected) to use a light coat of oil. Up until recently I had been using Rem Oil for all of my firearms. However, I began to notice a somewhat oily film and uneveness in the lubrication.

After reading many forum posts on this subject I started to use Ren Wax, initially just on my Goncalo Alves grips, and then I have expanded the use to include the exterior surfaces on all of my firearms which have various finishes other than the traditional blue, nickel, and stainless. I still use Rem Oil for the internal components.

I have read forum posts which indicate that there are primarily two different wax options: 1) Johnson's Paste wax (petroleum base so you still receive the benefits of the oil), and 2) Ren Wax - "Renaissance Wax is based on more stable microcrystalline waxes refined from crude oil. Renaissance Wax also contains polyethylene waxes. Some other microcrystalline waxes intended for conservation use (e.g. Cosmolloid 80H) do not contain these.

I first use isoprophyl alcohol (70%) on a cotton rifle patch to remove all of the existing exterior oil, then wipe the alcohol off with a soft cotton tee shirt. Apply the Ren wax (like Brylcreme, just a little "dab" is all that is needed) with either your finger or a soft cloth. Allow it to dry for five minutes and then buff it off with the same soft cotton cloth.

"Wax coatings for conservation are most widely, and least controversially, applied to metals. This has several objectives: to produce a barrier that excludes moisture and oxygen from the metal surface, to ensure against further introduction of contaminating elements by handling, and to provide a protective layer over anti-corrosion under coatings. Waxes are not permanent, though, and will attract dust and lint over time, necessitating removal of the dirty wax."

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That's what we do!

I've used J&J paste wax on my hunting rifles for years. I've never had a spot of rust anywhere.

I used a urethane clearcoat sealant. Works really well.

Renaissance Wax is easy to use. Apply with your fingers and buff with a clean cloth or paper towel. It takes no more time than oiling and wiping off fingerprints. The wax is mixed with a solvent, but a very mild odored one, and is snow white. I don't remove oil first. Any oil mixes with the Ren Wax and buffs off well enough for government work.

The effect on an older blue S&W with the deep finish is stunning. Like the night sky in a remote camp. It shines stainless a bit, but the best feature is that fingerprints and dust don't stick.

That 4 oz jar is two years old and barely touched. At this rate, there'll be some left for my grandchildren.

Urethane sealant? Shirley you jest.

I don't go crazy cleaning oil off either. It's in the wax and after a few times of doing it, its been pretty much buffed out or in. Either way won't hurt a thing.
It does make a good gun look great again. Plus it doesn't harm the wood stocks. In fact it helps them also.
Try it. If you don't like it, it will wear off in time.
By the way, a soft bristle tooth brush is good for getting wax build up out of corners and stamped lettering/ numbers.

My experience with oil or grease left on guns to be waxed is when wax is applied over it guess what it streaks. Buff some more and it will continue to streak. Why fight this when a simple application of Acetone removes the oil or grease and makes waxing an easy task!
Jim

Does it make sense to wax frequently used handguns?
After firing, for routine cleaning does it have to be "stripped down" w/acetone to bare metal and then rewaxed?
Tks, Kevin

I've noticed that a waxed gun can just be wiped off with a dry rag after shooting.The innards still need a proper cleaning though

The rationale behind waxing guns is because wet oil attracts dust. When the oil dries up the dust is left behind and the dust attracts moisture. Obviously, moisture on a metal gun is not good. Most tiny freckling on guns was caused by oil, dust and moisture. When you wax the metal, you create a moisture proof barrier between the metal and the surroundings.

This process is recommended by the curator of the Springfield Museum and if its good enough for a museum collection of very old and priceless guns, then it is certainly good enough for me.

Set up a TV tray the next time you are watching the Charlies Angels reruns and before you know it you will have waxed a dozen guns or more.

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James Redfield
LM #497

I'm another fan of Renwax. I buy a fair amount of 20-30year old guns, Renwax makes them shine and brings back their original charm. A can should last longer than I will.

To each their own Waxing ? what ever happened to proper care, The Range I go to Charges $25 to clean a Pistol with a method that leaves them bone dry and becomes in need of some lubrication. I have firearms over 200 years old. from Iron, Damascus, Steel. they see nothing but Hoppes and proper care. If you have an S/S pistol with rust shame on you. My guns have been used from Saltwater Hunting to Alaska where my brother has lived for 60 years and laughed at the thought of waxing. their take on it put them on your car roof run it thru a carwash that uses RainX and your good to go. Do you also wax the Bores.