After resolving my lost yoke screw issue yesterday, I thought about using Loctite or Permatex when installing those side plate screws.

Any of you do that as a matter of routine with all of your S&W side plate screws?

Thanks,

Frank

No, I use a screw driver. I check them once in the while to make sure they are tight. Most gun guys are not fans of loctite on their guns. Don't be afraid to torque them down. I have never stripped one.

Not in over 45 years of owning firearms. Only firearm 'parts' I've ever used Loctite on were scope bases.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Would never dream of it. But I believe in free choice.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Never did it or ever found any reason to do it. FWIW took my first Smith apart mid 70S.

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

I have used Loctite on one or two screws out of about fifty revolvers. One of them was a sight screw, one a sideplate screw. There is also one cylinder latch that I keep my eye on. I think I stripped threads on one aluminum frame, many years ago. One can very easily have a screwdriver slip when overtightening, and I do not recommend overtightening. Better to use Loctite than torque. I'll let the police armorers who know about this stuff say it the understandable and technically correct way, but I guarantee you that that is THE right answer - don't overtighten.

I don't over tighten anything. If a screw backs out under spec torque, I use blue locktite.

My first 642 had one sideplate screw, the one behind the trigger, that would loosen after every range session. I always tightened it down with a proper screwdriver and it always came loose.

I used blue Loctite. I put a drop on a paper plate, touched the end of a toothpick to the drop to pick up a very small amount, applied that to the threads of the screw, screwed it down, and let it set with the screw side down to prevent anything from possibly getting into the action (I know it wasn't very likely, but I'd rather be safe than sorry). It never came loose again, it never caused any function/reliability issues, and was easy to loosen the last time I had to open the sideplate.

I do draw the line at the yoke screw, though. I'm not comfortable using any strength of Loctite there, even if others have done so without a problem.

NO Locktite for me on guns.

No. As a matter of fact, in almost 40 years of shooting and collecting S&W's, I have only removed several side plates. With the modern aerosol cleaners, there's really no reason to strip a revolver down for routine cleaning.

NO , never have and never will . It's like any other piece of equipment , check the screws occasionally , that's it !!!!!!

It seems to be a rarity on a S&W,,there are a few other brands that have problem screws that back out regularly.

If a screw keeps backing out when the gun is used,,even though the screw was torqued down to spec before hand,,then something has to be done.

One way ,,,You can walk around with a small screw driver in your pocket and continually look at the screw and hope it's still there. Checking and tightening that problem screw every time you think of it and then some.

One reason the screw keeps loosening even when tightened down correctly is that the threads on the screw or in the frame (or both) are loose spec. Easier said,,a poor fit.
Parts that flex during firing like the side plate add to the loosening effort and these can become undone easier than others on some guns.
Shotguns and some rifles with large side plate covers on the frames are subject to loosening from flexing while being shot. The Marlin hammerless pumps are bad for this. They added lockscrews to the second generation of them in attempts to solve the loosening.

Anyway,,
A second method to tighten the fit is to 'crush' the screw in OAL,,the threaded portion actually.
It's done simply by eye and feel and a hammer on a lead block.
A couple careful wacks to the threaded end of the screw to compress the threaded shank will take up the TPI by a .000 or 2. That will improve the fit of the screw threads to the frame threads.
No more sloopy thread fit.
Don't go too far as the thread on the screw will be too far compressed and will be out of the TPI spec of the frame and won;t thread back in. Out of luck now,,time for a new screw,,

It also works to retime screw (draw up) for bringing screw slots to the 12 to 6 position on high grade guns. You can gain about a 1/4 turn this way but you can also ruin the screw if you over 'adjust'.
Touchy work,,yes, But I do this all the time .Customers love 'timed' screws on their high grade and even low grade guns.


The third method is to get the blue loctite out. Carefully clean the screw and the frame threads.
Apply the minimum amt necessary w/a toothpick and tighten the screw home. When cured,,it'll stay put during any normal service. You can leave the screwdriver at home and not worry about looking to see if 'that' screw is still in the frame or not.
The thread locker is just taking up the poor fit between the threads in the frame and the screw that already exist.

If you need to you can easily remove it with a screwdriver and normal torque with the correct Locktite .

With all that said,,it's a rarity that Locktite has to be used. I would not use it on screws on a gun as a normal re-assembly routine just to 'make sure' they didn't back out.

I noticed my new S&W 686SSR already came with a tiny drop of loctite on the cylinder side plate screw when I unscrewed it to take out and clean the cylinder. It was red, definitely not blue or purple. Also, had to use quite some force to unscrew it.

I put a tiny drop of Loctite back on it when I screwed it back in. I probably should have used blue.

Also, if you search for any yoke screw, every image I see shows it with red locktite on it! (e.g. Smith & Wesson Yoke Screw Assembly S&W K L N Frame Blue)

S&W uses a thread locker but it's not the usual red Loctite, it's a pre-applied thread locker that happens to be red.

Red Loctite is a MUCH stronger thread locker than you want. Purple Loctite 222 is more appropriate.

S&W uses thread locker on yoke screws, and I have S&W side plate screws that came with the same red thread locker applied. Guess our "purists" need to inform S&W that this isn't appropriate...

I can honestly state that I've NEVER had a side-plate screw just loosen up by itself in over 40 years of handgun shooting. HOWEVER----- when I acquire a new handgun (new or used) it gets totally disassembled, gone over and inspected, cleaned, lubed by yours truly before it ever gets shot. Screws are properly tightened (but not Gorilla tightened) and I have had zero problems. They stay tight until I disassemble again for a thorough cleaning the next time.

NOTE: Each time I clean a Revolver the Yoke screw comes out so I can remove the Cylinder for easier cleaning. Because I routinely do this to Revolvers, it routinely gets tightened on a regular basis. No issues, no Locktite and always a clean Cylinder.

And I shoot revolvers for USPSA and bowling pins and PPC and Steel Challenge and whatever else. I have watched other revolver shooters drop the cylinder assy and yoke on the ground during reloads because the yoke screw came loose.

I read on forums how folks shoot thousands of rds of (insert your favorite) 22 LR without a misfire too...

MOSTLY due to improperly tightened screws, not paying attention to details and a lack of maintenance I'd suspect. I have seen numerous Revolvers that have loose screws (or barely tightened ones to be more P/C) that are a screw waiting to turn out. I have also shot many revolvers that friends own with grip screws so loose the at the grips are moving around in my hands - improperly tightened.

A gun is like anything else that vibrates, shakes, has recoil or violent forces acting on it and screws are specifically made to be tightened to certain amount of foot pounds or inch pounds. IMHO Locktite is not a substitute for regular attention to detail and maintenance. Just saying........... YMMV

I bought a new 625 for myself and new 986 for my wife. Both had red Loctite or something like it on the yoke screw right from the factory.

Purple Loctite is made to allow screw removal without heating, i.e., a weaker bond. I'd think that would be the one to use on sideplate screws In any event, I have never felt the need to use anything like Loctite on a revolver sideplate screw. Just check them occasionally. I have a Winchester M94 that has one receiver screw which is prone to backing out after 20 or so rounds, but I am well aware of that and just retighten it frequently. I am never too far from a suitable screwdriver.

My colors aren't so good anymore so it probably is purple. Some guys use the purple stuff on the loading arm of the repo Colt Walkers as they work out pretty easy. ( sorry I used the C word)

I have found that thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the hole and the screw threads and then putting the screw in snug eliminates the vast majority of problems.
In the rare instance that Loctite is justified, I have used the blue formula only, on a degreased screw and degreased hole, and then just a mere trace of the compound on the threads. I'll put just a fraction of a drop on the screw and then touch a piece of paper towel on the Loctite to wick most of it away. You don't need much on tiny gun screws, you're not trying to keep a 1960's Triumph Bonneville from shaking every screw on it loose every time you ride it.

Does that Screwedriver Have Orange Juice In It ??
COWBOYUP57 ..

Tequila and grenadine instead of red Loctite... but then it's not a screw driver.

Never

-don

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SWCA LM#2190 SWHF#414

If you do decide to use locktite on your screws, please use a dremmel engraver and write on the side plate that locktite has been used. Will save future generations some headaches.

We are talking past one another on this topic. Tomcatt51 and I are competitive shooters in action shooting sports where stopping to tighten a screw isn't feasible. Yes, S&W has been putting a red threadlocker on yoke screw since the advent of the spring-loaded screw. I have lost a complete yoke/cylinder assembly during a speed reload. We have a great video of one of our very experienced shooters having it happen during a stage.

I don't quite get the apparent righteous indignation against locktite. Is there a chapter in the bible? Thou shalt not ever use locktite on a gun!!

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

I use a screwdriver and screw them right down. I do not over-tighten. I have never lost one yet. They are long enough that you can see one starting to come out long before it falls out - if you look. Please save yourself the trouble. Get a correct screwdriver for gun screws and look. Snug down as required. You will be happy. And so will your revolver!

Same here. Seems the only problem with Loctite is the users that can't seem to grasp the concept of using the correct type of Loctite for the application. One size doesn't fit all in spite of what some seem to think...

Oh my... PROPERLY TIGHTENED SCREWS DON'T COME LOOSE... clearly you weren't PROPERLY TIGHTENING THEM. Or has that morphed into PROPERLY TIGHTENED SCREWS DON'T FALL OUT, IF YOU CATCH THEM IN TIME?

In spite of my sarcastic nature I have to applaud your honesty about them coming loose.

I shot my K 38 for 10 years in competition, earned my life time master classification. Never, not one time - did I loose a side plate screw. I never used loctite. How a serious competitor could loose a yoke cylinder assembly is beyond me.

Bullseye?..

Bullseye and PPC, mostly PPC in formal competition.

Whoever thinks that Loctite blue should be used on gun screws really needs to go to the Loctite web site and do some reading. I don't think I've ever seen a S&W revolver that has a 1/4" screw which is the lower limit for BLUE.

Stu

Thanks for your comment on this and advice. I'll probably keep an. Eye on it next time I take the cylinder back and the screw back without using anything. If it would ever go loose, I'll try the purple from then on.

I'll try to explain it so you can understand. The gun in both instances was a 625-3 5" bbl. being used in a USPSA action pistol match. During a stage, it is quite common to need to do several reloads on the run. If the spent brass fails to drop out competitors may hit the ejector rod a bit hard, which has caused the entire cylinder/yoke assembly to exit the gun. I have not seen this kind of thing in slow motion but I believe the spring-loaded yoke screw is the culprit.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

It may be that someone did some "custom" work on that 625. I have seen some competitors do some goofy stuff to the frames of their revolvers.

I just took the yoke screw out of my 625-6 and tried to knock the cylinder loose without sliding the yoke forward. I shot 100 rounds and ejecting and reloading ammo and no problems.

Let my friend shoot it without telling him about the missing screw and he had no problems.

You did give me the opportunity to shoot one of my favorite target pistols.

The only custom work done on the two guns was chamfer of the chambers and trigger jobs to lighten DA trigger pull. Neither of us who experienced this can explain how either. Glad you got to do some shooting.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

Short Answer, "NO". Never! Not a recommended preventative for a problem that doesn't exit. I carried and depended on my S&W revolvers and never experienced any need for "Loctite".
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Sam
S&WHF 333 S&WCA 2198