I purchased a model 19 that I plan to give to my father for his 70th b-day. he sold his back in the day. ive heard many times how the model 19 is the best 357 ever produced by any manufacturer!!!! lol anyway I want to clean this one up a little, blueing is good. other than normal cleaning is there any thing I can do to the metal and grips to make it look a little better? not looking for reblueing or anything that dramatic. thanks joe

After it's good and clean go over it with some acetone (take the grips off first)or alcohol and then give it a couple of coats of Renaissance wax or Johnson's paste wax.It will look great.

A light, I stress light, polish with Flitz, then the ren wax as suggested by arjay. Much depends on the condition of the revolver. Easy to overdo. Grips can be cleaned with an old toothbrush, then light coat of ren wax. A quality paste car wax can be substituted for Renaissance Wax if can't find that product.

I agree with arjay and inusuit, Ren wax will bring out the blueing, and by the way, good on you for doing that for your dad, speaks highly of your character.

If you're going to use Flitz polish on a blue gun I suggest even lighter polishing than suggested by Inusuit. In other words a really light, I stress really, really light polishing with Flitz. Be very careful as it can remove bluing.

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Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

To clarify, it absolutely removes some bluing. I would avoid using a polish on a blued weapon unless you are getting rid of rust.

When I buy a new S&W revolver, I disassemble it, then immerse it and the parts in a sonic cleaner with a biodegradable degreaser (krud cutter, simply green, etc.) and set the timer and walk away. When complete, I rinse (hot distilled water in the sonic cleaner), then dry with a hair drier and towels. I oil/grease the action and reassemble, then wax the gun with johnson's paste wax. That's a bit much for most people.

More to your point, on the outside of the gun, I recommend cleaning with odorless mineral spirits (which work as well as acetone and are much kinder on your lungs and hands, and can be used on the grips, too, without damaging the finish if you don't let it sit) to degrease and clean, then I would use Johnson's paste wax, two or three coats, including the grips (and do the inside of the grips too, as it helps keep out water if the inside girps aren't sealed).

^^^That right there. Never use any abrasive polishes or steel wool on a blued gun.

I would agree with what has been said above. My only advice would be to use Renaissance Wax as opposed to Johnson's. Johnson's wax contains carnuba wax.

How, RENAISSANCE Wax,
the "Perfect Wax" was created:
Prior to 1950, the only polishes available were based on beeswax and carnuba wax. Unfortunately, these natural, saponifiable products could cause damage when acids arose spontaneously through oxidation or hydrolysis.
To solve the problem, a consortium of international conservationists directed a scientist from the British Museum to conduct research and find the "perfect wax." When he could not find any that met their exacting standards, he created a new wax in his laboratory. The revolutionary formula he invented is a semi-synthetic microcrystalline fossil-origin wax entirely free of, damaging acids.
It remains chemically neutral and is therefore completely safe, even on vulnerable surfaces.
The British Museum approved manufacture for its own use and for distribution to the public. That "perfect wax" is now available internationally under the name RENAISSANCE WAX.

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James Redfield
LM #497

I have Renaissance wax, but I tend to use it sparingly. I think johnson's works well enough for most of my purposes. I wouldn't buy a can just for a one time job.