recently acquired a model 29 with issues. I knew they were there, so he didn't try to get one over on me. can any one recommend a good smith or would it be better to send it to smith and Wesson? the problem is with the yoke/cylinder. moving back and forth. thanks joe

Pinnacle High Performance Guns, Mark Hartshorne - Home - Pinnacle High PerformancePinnacle High Performance | Custom revolvers, revolver gunsmith

Or you can check with S&W. Even though you don't say anything about what vintage your 29 is, I'm sure they could fix it up for you.

__________________
Don't kiss smiling dogs!

Unless something is way out of wack that should not be a hard fix. If the yoke is moving back and forth while locked up a bit of peening on the yoke button where the frame screw engages it will fix that. The button is the end part on the piece of the yoke that goes into the frame after the cut for the screw that holds it. It can wear a bit. Peening the area where the screw meets it lightly will move metal back into the slot so that it rides tight against end of the screw. But before you do that, maybe look at fitting a new screw it the end of the screw looks work or deformed. If the cylinder moves while closed and the yoke doesn't, either stretching the yoke or shimming will fix it. These are relatively easy fixes.

Even if you do not want to do it yourself, knowing what needs to be done helps when you talk to the smith.

If you have endshake on the yoke itself, perhaps the crowned screws in the sideplate got switched. In the older design, the screw in the sideplate that secures the yoke was fit to the yoke button as the previous poster has stated. If they get switched, this can cause the out of spec condition you describe. If you have an older model 29, made before they introduced the new spring loaded plunger screw on the yoke, try switching the "crowned" sideplate screws.

Another option would be to install yoke/cylinder shims to repair the endshake condition. Very simple intervention that can restore the proper gauge both on the yoke and the cylinder.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

There is probably a lot you can do yourself before sending it off.

its a model 29-3, so newer. I have jerry kuhnhausens's book, the S&W Revolvers, a shop manual. but im still a little hesitant to mess with it. im mechanically inclined but I would really hate to mess something up.
iam going to go shoot it this weekend, start with some specials, then magnums see how it goes.

The new yoke retention system/screw design didn't come out until 1988, and the 29-4. Your gun should have the screw fit to the button on the yoke stem.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Yes, I believe the only substantive difference between the 29-3 and earlier dashes is that the 29-3 lacks the barrel frame pin and recessed chambers. I have a 29-3 which is a 29-2 overstamp, i.e., -3 is stamped over -2 on the frame.

so I shot it today. shoots fine better than I can. the 44 spl went off without a hitch, problem came when I fired the magnums. could not get them out of the cylinder. star ejector would get them about half way then stick could pull two out with my fingers but needed a screwdriver to get the other 4. any thoughts?

Most probably ammo related (reloads), or perhaps, dirt or oxidation inside the cylinder chambers.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Clean it well with some solvent and a brass brush that will wit tight in the chambers. Spend some time on each chamber. If they don't look good under a well directed light after that, you might try again spinning the brush for a bit with a drill motor. Check your brass especially if reloads sometimes a die will get dirty and scratch the brass and that makes extraction harder. A lesson I learned early in reloading. Keep the brass and dies clean just like the gun.