There has been a lot of conflicting discussion about use of Hoppe's on the newer blued S&W revolvers. Rather than rely on hearsay reports I looked at the S&W owners manual and the Hoppe's MSDS sheet. The owners manual does indeed warn against ammonium solvents. It does not single out blued guns in this warning. However the Hoppe's MSDS states that the content of number 9 is 1-5 percent. That is not a lot as compared to a solvent such as Sweets 7.62 that has a much higher content.
So the question is has anyone out there specifically asked S&W about Hoppe's? Has anyone actually damaged a newer S&W revolver through the use of Hoppe's number 9. I and others are interested in actual use experiences not what allegedly happened to your brother in laws second cousin.
As a long time Hoppe's user I am searching for the real truth here.

Comments and real life personal experience requested.

I use Hoppes #9 on my 642 without any problems. I clean the barrel and cylinder with it, and a fair amount gets on the frame. I wipe it down with a clean rag when I'm done and there doesn't seem to be any ill effects. I wouldn't let it soak in the stuff, but I've let it sit around the forcing cone and it doesn't seem to hurt.

I did call Smith & Wesson Customer Service about three years ago when I bought my first nickel revolvers. The representative did recommend that I avoid using solvents containing ammonia. I have always used Hoppe's #9 and don't plan to change. Hoppe's now has an "Elite" product line that does not contain ammonia.

I use regular Hoppe's for my blue steel and stainless steel firearms. For all of my nickel firearms, and those with the newer finishes (Armory Kote, Armor-Tuf, etc.), I use Hoppe's "Elite". No problems whatsoever so far.

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That's what we do!

I witnessed first hand a recent factory re blue dull and spot the finish by using Ballistol wipes.My friend had just gotten this gun back from the factory the day before. I am not really sure what is going on with the factory Blue these days. I believe the problem is totally on the new Bluing process,and not any of the solvents out there.

As you can probably imagine, as a result of serving as a police armorer, I have considerable first hand experience (40+ years worth) with the use of Hoppe's #9, both as a user and a witness.

First of all, the Hoppe's web site does confirm that the #9 solvent contains ammonia, so there is no dispute about that. Whether or not it qualifies as one of the "harsh chemicals" as S&W puts it in the manual, that is to be avoided is personal choice. Most dedicated #9 users are adamant about the fact that in their experience, the product has caused no harm to their firearms in terms of finish or otherwise. I think this is because most people are using the product according to the label directions, which state that residue and excess solvent should be wiped off of the metal surfaces after cleaning has been completed.

Although I have used Hoppe's products over the years, including the #9 solvent, I've never used any product containing ammoniated solvents on nickel because the ammonia can damage the nickel finish, (reason below) and because there are so many other products that do not contain ammonia that work just as well, if not better.

In terms of eyewitness accounts as to damage....during my work as one of my local department's armorers, I saw many examples of damage from the ammonia ingredients in this product, on both S&W and Colt nickel plated revolvers. The damage usually manifested itself by causing the areas affected on the surface of the gun to turn "cloudy", and have a dull appearance. Sometimes the damage could be mitigated by careful polishing, sometimes not, depending on the severity of the damage. This dulling, or cloudiness damage of the finish did not ocurr quickly (exception below), but was caused by years of misuse of the product. I have no first hand knowledge of Hoppe's #9 harming bluing.

My other experience is still quite painful, even though it happened more than 30 years ago to one of my fellow officers, and a member of our pistol team. In an attempt to clean the cylinder of his beautiful nickel model 27, the officer in question placed the cylinder assembly down into a wide mouth Mason jar containing enough of the #9 to cover the cylinder portion with the liquid. The assembly was left in the Hoppe's overnight. The next day, when he removed the assembly from the jar, the cylinder came out, but the plating that was formerly on the cylinder was left in pieces inside the jar.
The damage was remedied by sending the gun back to S&W for re-finishing. Obviously, this is an unusual circumstance, and was clearly contrary to the manufacturer's directions printed right on the bottle, but an important lesson was taught nontheless.
This post is not meant as an indictment of this particular product per se, but as a warning to use Hoppe's #9, and all gun cleaning/maintenance products according the label directions.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

With so many better products now available, I'm amazed that so many steadfastly keep using great-granddad's old favorite.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

The "reason" is blatantly obvious-it works as intended.

As to S&W's new bluing process, they can keep it.

Changing from the Carbonia Bright Blue to the hot salts Bright Blue was a step backwards but at least it tolerated commonly manufactured and used gun cleaning product. This stuff quite frankly stinks and Smith & Wesson can pack it. I would never recommend it (factory refinish) to anybody.

Bruce

I'm glad all my guns were made prior to 1990. No need to worry about good ol' Hoppes 9 being a problem. If a gun can't handle Hoppes 9, then it isn't a gun I want.

Better than Hoppes #9 say it ain't so. Sorry I could not resist, and I have know idea if it is a problem on newer S&W finishes. Happy Thanksgiving everybody.

I have used Hoppes #9 as long as I can remember. No problems.
I have tried other brands a few times, but found nothing as good.
Always go back to what works best.

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In Omnia Paratus

Let me preface this by stating I own no S&W made after 1995 so I can only comment on guns made prior to that date.

I've used Hoppes #9 since 1965 on all types and brands of firearms with excellent results and NO harm at all. I have even use it many times on Nickel plated Revolvers that I NOW know I am not supposed to, but did not know back then - NO harm ever done. I've soaked blued parts in full strength Hoppes over night with NO harm done.

Sooooooo,
If people are encountering damaged blued parts NOW, I can only conclude that the Bluing process has somehow changed. That would not be a surprise for several reasons. Company's are always looking for a way to save a buck and environmental restrictions have gotten much stricter resulting in less durable results.

The bottom line here is that if NEW S&W blued product instructions state that ammonia based solvents will harm their bluing then find something that does not contain Ammonia or is "S&W approved".

Rig #2 Oil is what I use on ALL my firearms. It has a low odor, low toxicity level, cleans, lubricates and prevents rust and is reasonably priced. It will NOT harm wood, plastic, Nickel, bluing, paint, or anything I have ever encountered. I use the 4.5 ounce can (sold by Midwayusa and many others) for around $5 bucks or less.

I still use Hoppes from time to time when a gun is really dirty from a long day at the Range (cleans terrifically) but I now use it outside as my wife doesn't think it smells quite as good as I do. Hoppes has never a problem for me - but again my guns are all at least 21 years old and most older - none newer.

ANY doubts use something milder than Hoppes. If you clean your firearms after every shooting session and keep up with maintenance, the Rig #2 or Remoil will work just fine and you will not need the more aggressive cleaning power.

I used to use Hoppes, but found that odorless mineral spirits (OMS) works just as well as a solvent, and is cheaper and widely available. I've also used Ed's Red, but can no longer find kerosene cheap in the area, so just stick with the OMS. M-pro 9 would be my favorite cleaner, but it is way too expensive.

Blasphemy!

I like Hoppes cuz it smells good

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JR

I'm with you. We were playing a game one time. My sister asked
us what was our favorite smell. Didn't take me long to answer:
Hoppes #9. My younger brother said diesel. My dad answered
White Shoulders.

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In Omnia Paratus

Tried a dozen of other products and while they work, I have yet to find one that works any better. I did buy a huge bottle of MPro 7. But that stuff is very expensive. I had a 642 once that i sent back for refinishing twice. Hoppes ate the clear coat off. The second time, I wasn't directly using it, but some from the rag got on there. I only switched to MPro because of the cancer warning on the Hoppes bottle. But either way, I always follow up with a soaked patch of Hoppes. Guns just don't feel clean if they don't smell like hoppes.

Real men use Hoppes #9. Real guns can handle it.

Now, get off my lawn.

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Just Say No - To Social Media

I am also in the camp as being a lifelong Hoppe's user/fan. I do not own any post 1980 S&W's to compare.

I am actually on my last 3-4 ounce (label long gone as I have refilled from an approx quart size bottle for years) Glass bottle of Hoppe's #9. That is the really pleasant smelling, and as a gun writer long ago wrote: "not too bad tasting with your burger if you have any on your fingers", great cleaning original formula. I am dreading the day this one goes empty.

Is the current (Uncle Mike's???) Hoppe's #9 much different performance wise than the original.

I do have to digress to my pre-teen years and make a correction/confession. I was not always a Hoppe's #9 user. When I was young the only gun cleaning solvent I had at my disposal was a small case of little green cans, of USGI surplus bore cleaner that was probably at least 50% ammonia! It was dark brown and kind of thick. This would be the stuff from WWII or possibly WWI, long before the the RBC we had in the Army along with LSA durings the 1970's.

I've used Hoppe's exclusively since 1958.
Revolvers, pistols, rifles, shotguns.
Blued, stainless, nickel.
Never, ever, had an 'issue'.
I always wipe the guns down immediately after cleaning.
The formulation was changed years ago (and that explains the minor change in smell)...something about possible damage to your innards, not the gun's.
Greatest cleaner there is, IMHO.
Don

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OGCA Life
NRA Life

Me, too!

I always blow the whole residue away with Gunscrubber, anyway. Then they dry nicely and I oil lightly and I'm done.

This assumes I'm cleaning guns, which is not something I do often - but that's a whole other discussion.

YMMV.

But there is cleaning and then there is the need for cleaning, and using modern smokeless powder obviates the ancient traditions of cleaning guns after each use. I know, lots of y'all are fastidious and clean after every use and think I'm a Luddite and an idiot. I can handle it. An old cowboy once taught me to clean my guns every February - and if I miss it, then there is next February.

I avoid lead bullets for this reason - lead fouling demands earlier cleaning than required with jacketed rounds.

Again - totally personal, and I don't mean to hijack the thread, but Hoppes comes first when I clean guns, and I have used it for decades, so I am not totally at a loss when it comes to gun cleaning.

From the standpoint of a S&W factory armorer, I find it interesting that despite the fact that S&W warns users in writing not to use ammoniated solvents and other harsh alkaline solvents, and the fact that there are many, many safer alternatives, gun owners use these products anyway.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

My newest blued revolver was made in 1956. I use old #9 for removing powder and lead residue almost exclusively and it has never harmed the finish. It also tastes great with a splash of soda.

Funny thing is I have been doing this so long that I no longer read the dam* labels.