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Old 11-25-2016, 06:16 PM
GunnerMichael GunnerMichael is offline
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Default SS Cylinder Cleaning - how to get rid of residue caused by cylinder gap

I got a M69 recently. First time I went to the range I only had time to put 50 rounds through it. That is all it took to turn the front of the cylinder and the area around the forcing code completely black. I tried soaking it in different gun cleaning products with no luck. I tried Hopes #9, Gunslick, Ballistol, even using a harsh cloth for rough polishing with the Gunslick cleaner, still no luck. I went to one of the local gun shops, Canyon Sport In Martinez, and one of the staff recommended the Pro-Shot Lead-Clean Gun Cloth. 3 or 4 minutes of rubbing and the cylinder and forcing cone area looked brand new. I imaging the more you have shot since the last time your cylinder was shiny, the more you will have to rub and rub and rub. I ended up using it to clean the cylinder bores as well.

So if you are asking yourself, how do I get lead and powder fowling off my SS revolver? The answer is "Pro-Shot Lead-Clean Gun Cloth".

(I am not associated with Pro-Shot or Canyon Sports. I am just passing some cleaning tips hoping to help someone who was having the same issue I was. In fact, would bet there are other brands that offer the same product and presuming thy use the same solvent, I recommend those as well.)

Attached is a picture after about 30 minutes of meticulous cleaning using the cloth. I really could have spent less than 10 minutes but I was being OCD. Unfortunately I did not get a before picture, but I am sure those of you who have a SS revolver know what that looks like.
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:40 PM
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I use a lead away cloth also but only do it periodically because next range trip the residue is back.
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnerMichael View Post
...I was being OCD...
Yes.

With therapy you'll get over it.
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:44 PM
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Use caution and follow label directions carefully.

Some of these products, like the Birchwood Casey Lead Removal Cloths, contain abraisives like aluminum silicate, and ammonium hydroxide and can cause harm when used on blued or nickel finishes.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:40 PM
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I just use Break Free CLP and a brass brush with good results.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:51 PM
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I use MPro-7 with a brass brush or well-used copper bore brush (careful not to scuff with the steel end). I have a metal polishing cloth, but am worried that I'm taking off some of the actual cylinder (yes mere millionths of an inch, but still).

For blued guns I still use Mpro-7 but rub with a regular cotton cloth. Doesn't take off nearly as much, but no way am I scrubbing with a copper brush!
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:03 PM
ken158 ken158 is offline
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Pencil eraser works good
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:38 PM
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x 2 on the lead away cloth. I wrap a patch of it around a Popsicle stick to keep it flat and taught. Then a couple of swipes across the face of the cylinder and the leading is gone. Amazing results fast.
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:54 PM
Steve_in_PA Steve_in_PA is offline
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Lead Away Cloth. I've been using them on my stainless Ruger Super Redhawk for over 20 years. Looks good as new.
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:38 PM
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Gun cleaning solvent and a brass brush or bronze wool. I don't go nuts trying to clean the burn marks off, just the powder/lead deposits.
You can scrub 'til you're blue in the face to get all the burn marks off, but there will just be fresh marks next time you fire it, so I don't see the point in putting in that much effort. The burn marks don't hurt anything or have a negative effect on function. But then I'm not much of an OCD type....
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Old 11-26-2016, 01:13 AM
GunnerMichael GunnerMichael is offline
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SS Cylinder Cleaning - how to get rid of residue caused by cylinder gap SS Cylinder Cleaning - how to get rid of residue caused by cylinder gap SS Cylinder Cleaning - how to get rid of residue caused by cylinder gap SS Cylinder Cleaning - how to get rid of residue caused by cylinder gap SS Cylinder Cleaning - how to get rid of residue caused by cylinder gap  
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2 points that were risen that I forgot to mention:

- The label says it's okay to use on SS and Nickel, but DO NOT use on blued guns or casehardened surfaces, however, from just a few quick internet searches I might stay away form this if you have nickel plating. Nothing specific to this product but it sounds like if you have a scratch in the plating you need to be extra careful.

- If you plan to go to the range soon you might as well wait and clean it after a few rang trips. If the gunk starts to freeze the action then obviously you need to clean it. (I wish I had that much extra time and money.)

But for me, if I clean it after every shoot, I figure it will be that much easier to clean next time.

And I am a little hesitant to hit the gun with a metal brush, especial on areas where the size of the gap matters o the faction of a mm.
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Old 11-26-2016, 11:30 AM
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Cleaning the Carbon Rings off a Revolver Cylinder is almost the same as raking the leaves off your lawn in the Fall. No matter how clean you get your lawn, one gust of wind and your new leaves will arrive from either your neighbor's property or a tree that is not done shedding yet.

If you have a Revolver that is gonna be a "Wall Hangar" or "Safe Queen" then I can understand wanting to get the Cylinder face spotless. HOWEVER for a gun that will be routinely fired it simply does not pay. Not only doesn't it pay, but more than likely you will be causing more harm than good if it is routinely cleaned after each shooting session.

Almost any process you use to do so involves some sort of abrasive action. Weather it's the Lead-a-Way Cloth, Brushes, Erasers, etc. as mild as they seem, they're STILL abrasive.

My routine is after a shooting session I use Rig #2 Oil with a soft nylon toothbrush and what ever comes off - comes off. It will usually remove the caked up Lead & Carbon but the "base" ring remains. Basically all I want to do is prevent the lead/carbon ring from building up height and binding the Cylinder - but that's about it.

If and when I decide to store the gun up for an extended period of time I will use a pencil eraser or Lead a Way cloth but I do not do that on any routine basis. The other thing is that after using ANY kind of cleaning product on the Cylinder Face, FLUSH-OUT the Cylinder Ejector Rod tunnel with Rig #2, Remoil or similar that will NOT attract dust, powder residue etc. gunk up or clog things up. You will be surprised how much stuff gets in there that can bind up the ER. Fill up the ER tunnel with your favorite potion (like Rig #2 or Remoil), work it gently a few times and dump onto a paper towel. Repeat until all the fluid comes out clear and there are no remaining pieces of debris coming out anymore.

After you are at this hobby for a while you will view TWO things on revolvers as being "normal or acceptable". Those are the Cylinder rings and the Cylinder turn line. When you can deal with those two items then you have become a seasoned Revolver shooter........

Last edited by chief38; 02-15-2017 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 11-26-2016, 01:08 PM
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As long as the build up of any residue is removed the black burn ring doesn't hurt a thing, and will return the next time you shoot it.
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:24 PM
GunnerMichael GunnerMichael is offline
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Default "How to clean" not "how oftern to clean"

This post was supposed to be about "how to clean the front of your SS cylinder" not "how often should you clean the front of your cylinder".

However, for those of you who think you should never clean the cylinder front to a shine, we will have to agree to disagree. I got my first revolver almost 20 years ago and am well versed with cleaning guns. This is my first SS and it seemed to be more difficult to get the residue off the cylinder front. I always clean my guns to "as clean as I feel necessary" depending on when I plan to shoot it next. What I consider necessary will differ from someone else. But the lack of effort it takes to use the Lead-Clean Cloth, I am going to clean mine to a shine more often than not. I promise, my OCD will not go away or it would have a long time ago.
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:54 PM
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The trick is removing the cylinder from the gun and scrubbing the front of it with a copper brush, like the ones Kleanbore makes. I have great success with Slip 2000, and Hoppes 9. I think the brush does most of the work. ATF would probably work well too. People here have suggested a leadaway cloth. I found the copper brush to work much faster, and it doesn't remove metal.

I like to place the back of cylinder on the edge of my desk with the ejector star hanging over the edge. This gives a firm support surface on which I can firmly scrub the face of the cylinder. I don't do this often, but when I do it's usually a 5ish minute job till zero burn rings.
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:11 PM
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Brushes and erasers will wear a stainless steel cylinder? What kind of wear are we talking about? As in wear out...i.e. open the bbl to cylinder gap? Make the surface of the cylinder uneven? The interference fit of a copper jacketed slug going through a stainless steel barrel past the speed of sound with hot burning propellant behind it doesn't wear out the barrel too quickly, so I'm rather skeptical that a copper brush applied with hand pressure will damage a cylinder made of the same material...let a lone a rubber eraser.

I don't really bother removing burn rings anymore because I shoot way too much to deal with it. Nonetheless, I'm skeptical of how much damage can be done to ordnance grade stainless when met with a copper brush, or a rubber eraser with some elbow grease.
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:50 PM
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Iosso Bore Paste. This stuff REALLY works.
Iosso Bore Cleaning Polishing Compound Paste 1-1/2oz Tube
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:06 PM
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This topic comes up every few weeks but I'll repeat my procedure for GunnerMichael. First, get the face of the cylinder as clean as you can using any of the above mentioned methods. Then, before shooting, put a light coat of Corrosion-X on the face of the cylinder. This seems to do a good job on keeping the burn marks from sticking or getting into the pores of the steel. I find that the majority of carbon residue will then wipe right off with a few patches wet with good ol' Hoppes No. 9. Anything remaining will come off IF you have the patience to dab some solvent on the carbon and give it a chance to work. Like overnight. A little brushing with an old toothbrush will generally get any remaining residue after the solvent has been given a chance to work.
If your are STILL OCD about removing that last 2%, a little Flitz on a cotton swab will do it. It is very easy to maintain a clean cylinder face this way. Some of you guys are working way too hard at it. Let the solvent work. MPro7 is also very good on carbon.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:15 PM
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Note to self: Wear darker shooting glasses, shoot more, don't look at front of cylinder.

Be happy
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:36 PM
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Sorry about being late to the party, but I've found that Mother's Wheel Polish or possibly other metal polishes and a cloth work in a matter of 1-2 minutes. No elbow grease or bronze brushes required. Almost too easy. In fact, here's a short video. You guys are working way too hard. This morning I cleaned the cylinder faces of both my 500 S&W and 627 PC in 2-3 minutes, without changing the original finish of either revolver. Hope it works as well for others.

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Old 02-15-2017, 05:03 PM
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The cylinder face doesn't have to be shinny. Clean it good; get the lead that seems to hang around the forcing cone. Clean, nice. Shinny: anal.
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:25 PM
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I don't polish my cylinder faces, I just clean them to factory appearance. Using Mother's Wheel and Aluminum Polish achieves that goal with no scrubbing. I remove the powder residue with Hoppes and then lightly rub with the Mother's and soft rag. Takes a minute and looks new.

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Old 02-15-2017, 07:39 PM
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The cylinder face doesn't have to be shinny. Clean it good; get the lead that seems to hang around the forcing cone. Clean, nice. Shinny: anal.
So you are bashing on people who like to keep their guns clean? Well, in my first post I did mention I have OCD a little bit (undiagnosed). But I don't see why getting your gun as clean as possible without damaging it is a bad thing. Hickock45 even keeps his revolvers sparkly clean. If your opinion of how you store your guns differs from others it does not make them wrong. In my opinion any one who leaves powder residue and other contaminants on their firearm is doing it a disservice and eventually you will end up with corrosion. I would rather wear microns of a millimeter off the cylinder and forcing cone area over 10 years than risk getting rust or pitting. Once you find the right tool it doesn't have to take very long to make it shiny. But I have seen surfaces get scratched from cooper/wire brushes, I don't use those on anything other than barrels, and that's only for scubborn cooper residue
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:56 PM
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I don't bother with it. I shoot my guns too much to worry about it.
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Old 02-15-2017, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnerMichael View Post
So you are bashing on people who like to keep their guns clean? Well, in my first post I did mention I have OCD a little bit (undiagnosed). But I don't see why getting your gun as clean as possible without damaging it is a bad thing. Hickock45 even keeps his revolvers sparkly clean. If your opinion of how you store your guns differs from others it does not make them wrong. In my opinion any one who leaves powder residue and other contaminants on their firearm is doing it a disservice and eventually you will end up with corrosion. I would rather wear microns of a millimeter off the cylinder and forcing cone area over 10 years than risk getting rust or pitting. Once you find the right tool it doesn't have to take very long to make it shiny. But I have seen surfaces get scratched from cooper/wire brushes, I don't use those on anything other than barrels, and that's only for scubborn cooper residue
I'm basing this on supposition, but I imagine a shiny cylinder face would actually be easier to keep clean, as there would be less abrasions for powder residue to adhere to. We need someone to polish half a cylinder and test this.
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