Ok, here's my first newbie AR gun smithing question...

Ref: AR 15 Sport II

I'm looking at scope mounting tool kits. I need a torque screwdriver, levels, and some sort of bench vice/mount. I notice that Wheeler and Weaver are the two names that pop up most frequently via my searching. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on the best brand in terms of quality and workmanship + longevity. I would like to stay under $150 for the toolkit if I can.

Secondly, any ideas for a "practical" bench vice/mount to perform the scope adjustments? I won't be doing this very often so I don't believe I'll need anything high end. I'm saying that now. Heaven knows what will happen in the future.

And third question, is a lapping tool something I should be looking at or concerned with? I have a Vortex Crossfire II CF2-31037 scope at the moment.

Purchase the Weaver professional scope mounting kit. Every thing you need is contained in the kit with a DVD on how to mount a scope and fully detailed instruction . I purchased mine on Amazon for less than $100.00 with free shipping. Well worth the money for the professional mounting and money you will save not having a gunsmith install the scope. It is not very hard and a novice can accomplish the installation by following the guidelines.

Nick

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NRA Instructor\GCA Gunsmith

GF: you don't specify what type of mounting system you are using. You did mention an AR15, and if it has a picatinny mount already mounted on the receiver or rail, you are overthinking this. Using a good set of rings, the only thing you need to be concerned with is proper torque on the rings.

Gun vices are nice for holding the firearm when working/cleaning one and leveling the scope but they aren't mandatory and I've done many using my bean bags and a rest. Nor have I ever needed an actual level to tell when a scope is turned properly. Your eye's are pretty good for determining that. Not I'm not saying I don't have a vice, I do - it's a pretty old one Midway offered at a reasonable price, and it replaced a hand made one I built eons ago. On the other hand, if you are mounting a set of bases onto a receiver, then adding rings, you may need more equipment such as scope ring bars used for lapping and a vice.

One item you didn't mention that I highly recommend is a bore sighter. It slips into the bore of the rifle and when you look through the scope, it will give you a good idea where to move the cross hairs or aiming point. Proper use of one should put you in the black at 100 yards, or very close to it. Bushnell and others make them (it's the only Bushnell product I will ever own). Here's an example. Laser bore sighters are the rage and are cheaper, but they have to be used at close range, which will require adjustment at longer ranges. I have also done the old method of bore sighting where you literally look down the barrel, centering on a target, and adjust the sights accordingly. Done properly, this too will at least get you on the paper at 100 yards.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Thanks Nick. I'll check into the Weaver kit.

Tom, many thanks for your suggestions. If I don't have to spend money on something that isn't necessary then that's fine by me. I'll check out the bore sight and the bean bags. I've tried to "eyeball" the alignment but the Engineer in me wants to know it's level. Maybe a bit of OCD on my part but taking away the guess work will make me feel better. Yeah, probably overthinking it.

Edit: I'm using the cantilever mount from Vortex; Vortex Optics - Cantilever 30 mm Mount 3-Inch Offset and it's on the factory top rails.

That's a good looking mount and outside of a torque wrench, you should be good to go. And I will add that torque wrenches are nice, but I mounted scopes for nearly 50 years without one until I bought one this year. It is handy though and nice to know I'm not over tightening screws.

On the bore sighter, if you plan on doing more scopes, it's a very nice way to get close without expending a lot of ammo, but even it can be left out if you start at 25 yards with a large sheet of paper (or 4 regular targets clustered together), and work your way out from there. The only thing that will change from 25 yards to 100 will be elevation.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

GF:

While I am not Professional GS, I have mounted at least 20-25 scopes over the last 35 years. Just did one last Sunday! These do include centerfire rifles and handguns but most of them were done on Rimfire rifles.

I have no "official scope mounting kit" but I do have a complete set of Apex and Brownells bits and 3 different size handles for them. I also have a few small levels that I use to level the stock and the scope at the same time. A rifle cradle does help in holding everything steady while doing the work and I've never found the need to use a torque screwdriver although I do own a couple. After using tools almost every day of my life I have no need to use torque tool for most jobs as I have become quite familiar with what size screws should be tightened to what amounts. I also have a set of 3 torque wrenches that I very rarely use for the same reason. The only time I use them is on critical torque settings which again is extremely rare.

Last but not least it is important to use a high quality torx bit when tightening the scope ring screws. The last thing you want to do is ruin the job by bunging up the screws on a new mount job. I never use the cheap L shaped ones they usually give you with the scope rings. Always tighten the screws a little at a time and keep the space between the top & bottom rings equal. Keep going back in rotation until all screws are tightened equally and evenly.

IMHO I think that the Burris Signature Scope Rings and Adjustable shims are the best system there is. Not only does it allow almost perfect alignment and zeroing in before you even adjust the knobs to move the cross hairs, it allows complete protection of the scope against getting marked and or dented and scratched by metal rings of other brands and models. It takes a little longer, but IMHO it is the BEST way to do the mounting job.

PS: DO NOT GET SLOPPY leveling BOTH the Rifle and the Scope simultaneously!! It is quintessential to have them perfectly level and parallel to make sight alignment and precise adjustments after the scope is mounted!

HINTS:

PRIOR to mounting scope get the crosshairs PERFECTLY centered. Count TOTAL number of clicks from one end to the other, then cut that number in half and that is what you have to center the crosshairs on. Then you KNOW your Crosshairs are perfectly centered to start with. They are NOT necessarily centered ( they rarely are ) at the Factory so don't take that for granted!

When Focusing the scope, look up at the blue sky for short 2 second intervals, then adjust the focus in or out. DO NOT adjust focus while starring into scope - your eyes will auto correct for the blurriness and you will never get it adjusted properly.

When setting scope for eye relief make sure you get rid of all the "black" and have a full view through the scope. You also do not want to be too close - or you will look like a Tarryton Smoker -LOL. Refer to the scopes spec's as far as eye relief spec's go.

Wish I could give chief38 two likes! I will only add; IMHO, for any AR type rifle one does not need a bore sighter. After plumbing up the rifle in a padded vise and installing the scope properly, remove the upper and place it in the same vise aimed in fashion that with the bolt removed you can see a target spot about 30 to 50 ft. away. Yes, I open my shop door and look thru the barrel at a spot I placed on a concrete block wall. Then look thru the scope and adjust the cross hairs to be correct windage and slightly high for elevation. That will put any AR in a 4" target at 50 yds. It is a simple field adjustment to fine tune the point of aim after that. ....

Also, If you feel the need to lap scope rings just use a piece of 1" dia. precision ground steel rod and a small amount of fine valve grinding compound. Loosely fit the rings with the small amount of valve grinding compound rubbed inside over the steel bar. With just hand power rotate it. When you are satisfied clean everything up. Do not tightly clamp the rings down when doing this procedure. Doing that will open up the rings to a too large of inside diameter to hold the scope under heavy recoil. ............

That's how I was taught to sight in bolt action rifles (we didn't have any fancy semi autos or lever actions), even for rifles with adjustable iron sights. It's not a method I use any longer though unless out at a range and have to help someone out. The bore sighter never fails to get me on the paper at 100 yards, and more often than not, in the black on the first shot. And it works no matter what type of action. Many AR's have their scope mounted too high to use the bore sighter though, and the method you use works well enough.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Guys, I'm happy to report that I'm all set. I happened upon one of my neighbors, who's an AR builder as a hobbyist, and he offered to set me up. So I got to watch and learn the procedure. As a bonus he invited me to go out in the country this weekend to dial in the scope. I very much appreciate everyone's input. It's helped me more than you know. I'm still going to pursue picking up a few of the basic tools because I have a gut feeling this AR thing is going to be lots of fun and quite addictive and if I can be self supportive then more the better. Thanks guys!!!

It's good to have those kind of neighbors! Glad things worked out for you.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!