What is the best method to repair this crack ? When I squeeze the stock back together with my hands the crack almost disappears. I have some 2P-10 cyano acrylate glue which is very thin, the consistency of water. I also have a needle-type applicator. Would it be a good idea to drill a tiny hole in the end grain where the red arrow is in the photo, just big enough to insert the needle applicator and squirt some glue into the crack there, and plug the hole afterward ? Or, drip it along the crack from the inside where the other arrows are and let it "wick" into the crack ? Or make a line of glue along the crack on the outside and let it wick in from there ? The instructions say a 10-20 second cure time so I'll need to do it right. I want to avoid glue on the outside, if I apply to the outside and let it wick into the crack can I clean up with acetone ?
Thanks gents

Attached Images

	Mauser Stock Crack Exterior.jpg (60.6 KB, 74 views)
	Mauser Stock Crack Interior.jpg (73.5 KB, 69 views)

I also have an original c96 stock that's has cracks, I will be paying attention to this post to see repair ideas.

I had the SAME problem once with a C96 stock. My recollection is that I consulted a violin maker, and he recommended a conventional glue of the era (early seventies). I am sorry to tell you that I do NOT at the moment recall what the glue was, but it was probably made from dead horses.

I do not recommend drilling anything. Since times have changed, it is possible that the best glue today may not be the best glue of yesterday. Yet the profession of the most knowledgeable individuals may not have changed. Why not consult a local violin maker?

Ask this on a wood working forum I would recommend hide glue you can get it in liquid form now

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I use gorilla glue on gun stocks. But it may leave a line. The repo stocks are affordable, to save the orginal. Repairing a crack on a orginal c96 stock that maybe numbered to the pistol may hurt the value? You could rotary file the inside and fill it with epoxy then smooth it out.
Either way it's your call.

I have used super glue very successfully on wood rifle stocks, including a plastic stock on a Remington 66.

There's a grip/stock restorer/woodworker extraordinaire who goes by DWFAN, if I recall correctly, who is a member of the S&W Forum and I'd certainly take any of his advice over mine. Hopefully he'll weigh in. Anyways, here's an idea for you.

Here's a technique I've used about 3 times and I've heard other member cite this technique too (click on below image to enlarge it - I don't think you'll see the crack):
1. You'll have to commit to a refinish.
2. Strip the old finish. Either soak the stocks in acetone for a few hour and scrub with a soft toothbrush (gently sand afterward) or remove the old finish with a very gently abrasive, i.e. finer grit sandpaper. Save the sawdust.
3. Find a very thin superglue. On two of the three grip cracks I refinished I used an Exacto knife blade placed gently down in the crack to barely open up the crack just a fraction of a millimeter to facilitate the superglue going deeper into the crack. Use the lease amount of superglue necessary to just barely overfill the crack.
4. Quickly, while the superglue is still wet, dust some of the saved sawdust over the moist superglue and let it sit about 10 seconds.
5. Using about 240 - 300 grip sandpaper, while the superglue with the overlying sawdust is tacky, to sand over the crack until it is smooth and you see the superglue disappear or nearly disappear (it might give the appearance of wood grain).
6. Let it dry for a few hours.
7. Refinish.

For a through and through crack you'll still be able to see the crack on the backside of the stock but not on the finished side.

Here's an example that had a crack forward of the S&W emblem:
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__________________
Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

The way I have repaired these kind of cracks in the past is by using water-proof Titebond wood glue in a hypodermic needle, some hardwood "pins" and clamps. After carefully spreading opened the crack (minimally but just enough for the glue to get in) and squirting in the water-proof wood glue, a few holes were drilled and glue coated wooden pins driven in to bridge the gap. After 24 hours of clamping & drying some sanding to make everything smooth and flush is done and then I've stained and sealed the repaired area to match as best as possible to the original finish. YES, you will always see the wooden pins however this type of repair is permanent and strong.

While this repair will not be cosmetically perfect, I'd rather have the repair visible than wind up with a cracked stock! I also deem this "acceptable" on an old rifle as it is the least of all evil and will actually be a quality repair job that prevents a catastrophic failure; been there - done that!

This is a similar type of repair job the US Military did on old WWl and WWll rifle stocks and if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me. By NOT using pins the repair is LESS likely to be permanent and while it might look better I doubt it would hold up if the rifle was to be shot often.

I recently repaired an OLD 12 Gauge with this method for one of my friends and because the stock was dark Walnut to begin with the repair was almost invisible unless really looking hard. In his case, the stock had completely cracked in two and so the glue-joint was 100% covered with the glue and three pins were used that I made out of Walnut dowels. He has now put at least 400 rounds through the Shotgun and the repair has stood up perfectly.

PS: Very thin stainless steel Shim Stock, or something like a thin Feeler Gauge can be used to apply the glue inside the crack. I have also used an air compressor spray nozzle (set to very low flow) so blow the glue into the crack. I like to get enough glue in there so it oozes out when clamped. The thinner the better (Feeler Gauge) as you want to spread the crack as little as possible - just enough to get an ample amount of glue inside. Stain or tint can be used to make the yellowish glue a darker color, but if the crack is clamped tight the seam or crack should be pretty darn close and barely visible anyway.