Please tell me what solvent you use to clean your guns.
I use Hoppes #9 on everything and it works for me.
Recently I have read that this could damage the finish on my new revolver. So if I need to switch to something else, what would that be??

Hoppes Number 9 solvent

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I use a CLP

I have always used Hoppes # 9. I only use it on the barrel, tipped so it can drain out the end if I mistakenly used too much. The smell brings back so many good memories. I use Gun Scrubber synthetic for the rest of the gun.

a 100 yrs ago , they used kerosene , it worked just fine and does not have ammonia . Then they would wipe it down with a light oil .
If you google " Eds Red " it will give you Ed Harris's recipe for an all purpose gun cleaner that is cheap to make . I believe the problem with Hoppe's is if you leave a coating on the gun when finished . If you wipe it down afterwards and give it a light coat of oil there shouldn't be a problem . I used Hoppe's for over 50yrs . Today I use Safari Charlie and sometimes Kroil , works great , never had a problem on my new guns . Kroil recently had a great sale @ the factory , 2 large spray cans for the price of 1 . So for now I'm well stocked up .

I use #9 also, but I bought some MC25 cleaner/degreaser from Mil-Comm, and been very satisfied using it on the finished surfaces. Its a non-toxic water based formula, and a bit pricey.
I tried it because I was pleased with their TW 25B lube.

MC 25(R) Weapons Cleaner/DeGreaser : 01. MC25 cleaner/degreaser 4 oz pump bottle

Used to use Kroil for penetrating oil.

I've used gallons and gallons of this stuff. I used to get it free. Still have a bunch left over. Any time the ammunition might have even a chance of being corrosive, RBC is the stuff to use, as immediately after firing as practical. (The primer in a tank gun round contains about 1500 grains of black powder, which is one reason the Army still uses RBC.)

Cleaners like Hoppes #9, which contain ammonia are hard on nickel finishes as they attack the copper layer beneath. They are good at getting after jacket bullet fouling.

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I used Hoppes #9 for over 40 years. I had to move my gun-cleaning out of the garage and into the house (when I lost my garage due to a temporary move into an apartment). The problem is my wife is extremely sensitive to odors.

I tried some stuff from a place called Gun-Werkz. Works great, and I cleaned my guns in the kitchen when she was out one day. She came home about two hours later and didn't notice. I like it better too, no fumes and non-toxic. Cleans just as well. I'm not going back to Hoppes, even though I moved again and got my garage back.

I have no affiliation other than a satisfied customer.

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....Hoppes Elite for guns that the new blued finishes and plastic guns. Elite doesn't have the ammonia in it that changes the color of blued guns. They changed the bluing process for environmental reasons to another process that isn't compatible with S&Ws new bluing processes.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Since my newest S&W was built in 1994 Hoppes has had no ill effects for me. I have used GALLONS of it over the years but have been using Rig #2 Oil almost exclusively for years now. Not because the Hoppes caused any damage, but because my wife does not agree with me that it smells great.

S&W has changed their Bluing methods and apparently their new Bluing is not nearly as durable and will not stand up to Ammoniated products.

I would definitely suggest NOT using Hoppes #9 on NEW Smiths as they will not honor their warranty if you use products they specifically tell you not to use. I'd find a less aggressive cleaner like Rig#2 Oil, Remoil, etc that doesn't contain Ammonia. Not only does Rig #2 NOT contain Ammonia, but it will NOT harm wood, plastic, Polymers, aluminum, rubber, etc. It is not as aggressive a cleaner as the #9, HOWEVER if like me you clean your gun after each shooting session, it has no problem cleaning the gun. It also lubes and protects against rust under normal conditions. It is a VERY good product and has been on the market for at least 35 years that I am aware of - maybe longer.

From what I understand, this is exactly why Hoppes recently came out with Ammonia-free Hoppes Elite. I have not used it yet but I would imagine that it would not clean as well as the #9 - but won't be as harsh and/or aggressive. Once again, if all you are cleaning out of your gun is the most recent Range sessions dirt, you should still be fine. I still do use Hoppes #9 when I acquire an older previously owned gun for its initial cleaning and to remove the years of crud on most used guns. As a pure cleaner it is one if the BEST!

I would worry more about it causing damage to you... http://hoppes.com/Hoppes/files/9d/9d...3e79cfc834.pdf

There are a lot of very good less toxic options out there that work well, Hoppes Elite being one of them.

Hoppes now makes a solvent called Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner which is supposed to be gentler on "finishes". It's not cheap.

Ed's Red Bore Cleaner is still my favorite, equal pasts:
ATF - Dexron type
Kerosene K-1 type
Mineral Spirits - low odor
Acetone

Note , you can omit the acetone for a less agressive bore cleaner and equal parts ATF and kerosene make a great light lubricant.
Equal parts ATF and acetone make a super penetrating oil , use in place of Liquid Wrench.

I recently purchased 1 quart of all 4 items for ed's red from wally mart. They had everything, the gallon of cleaner came to under $20.00 ($17.67 if I remember correctly) not a bad price for a good cleaner.
I'm not fond of some of the "new" finishes S&W uses , it should hold up to gun solvents...but it doesn't. That's just not right !

Gary

I have gotten an education today on gun solvents.
Been using the Hoppes number 9 AND Hoppes Bench Rest 9 Copper Gun Bore Cleaner.
If you use them, you may want to read their safety data.
I knew to keep it off wood but didn't know about plastic and the newer finishes. Plus you are really not supposed to touch the stuff.

I might also suggest that anyone mixing up a batch of Ed's Red definitely leave out the Acetone! Acetone will not be kind to plastics, wood and other misc finishes that are around or near firearms. I can tell you my Wife has left her mark on furniture and counter tops with her nail polish remover which is Acetone. I have a can of it in my work shop and it will eat through my Nitrile gloves in a matter of seconds. I strongly dislike Acetone and only use it when absolutely necessary.

I use #9, m7 pro, and remoil

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M 7 Pro has been my choice for the past several years. It cuts grime and leading without damaging metal finishes, and has no obnoxious odor.

Ballistol is the way to go in my book. I think it's the only cleaner/lube that's actually good for your skin.

Same here. Cleaning and lubing.

another vote for Kroil

Mineral spirits

Break Free CLP for cleaning, Gun Butter for lube.

The mix with the acetone is best used only in the bore and not left on wood , plastic or the new S&W finishes , it will affect them. Wipe it off after cleaning or leave it out altogether . The ATF and Kerosene make a good general purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative (CLP) all by itself.
If you use the strong stuff just be careful, it's an old school bore cleaner, predating WWII and designed to cut powder and copper fouling in military rifles , not be gentle , enviromentaly friendly and green. That stuff hadn't been invented back then.
Gary

Odorless. Easy peasy, not much smell, and pretty cheap.

The price of kerosene is outrageous in my area, and it used to be cheap at the pump. Locally, those days are over.

However, this has been discussed all over the place since day one of guns. Search for threads and you't find all the opinions in the world.

I've been using the Hoppes Elite cleaner for over a year. I don't shoot as much these days and therefore do not clean as much, but I don't allow my guns to get really dirty before cleaning either. The Elite cleaner has worked well for me, and I like the fact that I don't have to worry about getting it on my skin. I still keep that to a minimum and wash up immediately after use. This cleaner may not be as aggressive as some, but that's OK for me.

I generally swab the bore with a wet patch first of all, then allow it to sit and soak until I finish the rest of my cleaning activity. Last thing I do is to run a brush through the bore two or three times, all the way through and back out again. I then use a bore size round patch pusher to push clean dry patches through the bore one way. I usually catch the patch and turn it over and push it through again. Then I get a clean patch and do it over. Usually, I get a clean patch by the fourth trip through. The Elite cleaner looks and feels a bit "soapy". It has little odor, though I never minded the #9 smell. I have had no negative issues with the Elite cleaner. I may not be as anal as some when cleaning, but I like to be finished with a clean dry patch through the bore with no sign of fouling on it. I usually save that last clean patch or two for use as the initial swab patch through the bore next time. Guess I am unwilling to throw them away till I've gotten my money's worth out of them! For me, I like the Elite Cleaner just fine. There is cheaper stuff, but it works for me, it's in a handy container that I can spray with the pump in areas where that works best. I usually buy the larger size pump sprayer, and pour some of the liquid into a small squeeze bottle for applications to my patches or maybe onto a tooth brush style cleaning brush. I recommend it!

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So long ... Ken

I've used Hoppes #9 for years without issues. I'm also using RG17. I got a sample bottle of the stuff at a gun show and found that it works real well.

I think what Amp was referring to is potential damage to nickel finishes. If the finish has been scratched, the Hoppes or any penetrating cleaner can get under the nickel and cause flaking.

I use Hoppes No. 9 for solvent on everything EXCEPT these very recent vintage S&W revolvers.

I use Break Free CLP as lube.

On those couple of guns with the "fragile finish" that S&W seems to be putting on its revolvers these days, I simply use the Break Free for both chores (cleaner and lube).

I use Break Free CLP to clean and lube.

I currently believe it is the BEST solution available for the job.

How did I come to this concrete opinion? My department provides it to me for FREE to clean and lube my weapons....So the FREE makes it the BEST for me Not much help to you I know.....But you did ask.

Long term favorites:
Kroil
Ballistol
Sometimes used together.

I've tried a lot of different solvents but my normal are Hoppes #9 and I use Butches Bore shine to clean my barrels. Both are excellent cleaners !!

I picked up a bottle a few months ago of Hoppes #9 SYNTHETIC. It's not as strong as Hoppes #9 and states it's made for more modern firearms and can be used on plastic. When I get back from the range or any other time I clean my firearms I pour a small amount out of the container and into small plastic cups. Both Hoppes #9 and Butches will eat the bottom of the container after it sits in it for a while, the Hoppes synthetic will not. I've not used the synthetic that often. Does anyone know if this product is OK for some of the new finishes ??

I've become a ballistol user over the years. Will still use Hoppes #9 for swabbing bores out.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

I use J-B bore cleaner paste followed up with KleenBore #10 copper cutter. I used Hoppes #9 for years until a local gunsmith turned me on to J-Bs. He told me to clean the bore with whatever method/cleaner I usually use, then run a patch of J-Bs down it. I found out I was leaving a lot of residue, as indicated by the J-Bs patch turning black with lead/power fowling. As for Hoppes #9 smell, I wish they offered a car air freshener soaked in that stuff LOL.

The J-B Bore Cleaner does have abraisive mineral components. I'm not sure of the long term affect on the rifling, etc.....if any.


http://www.sinclairintl.com/userdocs...83_default.pdf

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Knock yourself out: Hoppe Air Freshener

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I like the Hoppes elite....cleans way faster and seems cleaner. I use very few swabs now compared to clp

Never use acetone around a car battery. Acetone and sulfuric acid combine to make a very unstable high explosive.

I've been using Hoppe's #9 since I was 12 years old. I'll be 75 in March. My newest "blued" guns are 20+ years old.

"Oderless" mineral spirits works well for clean-up, followed by a blast of compressed air, and then lubricant of your choice (preferably not Mobil 1).