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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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  #1  
Old 01-06-2017, 05:30 PM
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Stonecove Stonecove is offline
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Default Model 19 action job advice needed

I have a nice Model 19-3, 4" that I used for IDPA last summer. I'm considering making it a dedicated IDPA gun so I'm thinking to have some modifications made:
1. lighten and smooth up the double action pull
2. chamfer the cylinder holes
3. remove standard front sight and add a fiber optic, maybe night sight
4. replace standard rear site and replace with one with a wider window.
Are there any other modifications you would recommend? Does this amount of modification make sense for IDPA. Do these modifications change this gun to an enhanced service revolver division?
Thanks for your help.
John
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2017, 05:59 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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I shoot a 4" 686 that I made into a 40 S&W for IDPA. It has front and rear fiber optics, 6 lb. DA pull, bobbed hammer, cut for moonclips and chamfered chambers. There is only revolver class now, as most are shooting auto, there aren't enough revo shooters left to break it down further.

On any gun, the quality of the sights, trigger, and barrel are the main things that help you shoot well.

#1-yes.

#2-yes. Go easy, you don't need 6 funnels, just a small chamfer does the job.

#3-I find the fiber optics are helpful in all light conditions besides dark. In the dark you are using a flashlight anyway and the sights are silhouetted against the lighted target. Even black sights work then, as they all look black.

#4-I use a fiber optic rear with a deep notch. Deep is better than wide because you can still get on target quickly and still make longer shots accurately. The fiber front and rear together helps keep track of the front and rear relation to each other on the first shot from draw and during recoil between shots. I use an orange fiber on the front and green on the rear.

Last edited by Protocall_Design; 01-06-2017 at 06:06 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2017, 03:43 PM
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Thanks Toolguy, bummer there is only 1 class of revolvers. I suppose they figure using moon clips is about as fast as using competition speed loaders...
What brand of front and rear sights did you go with? I like your idea of using different colors for the dots.
What did you have to do to get a 6 pound DA pull? do you find that reliable or do you have light strikes.
Do you recommend a smith to do this work?
Thanks,
John
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Old 01-07-2017, 05:13 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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Both moonclips and speedloaders can be fast. Moonclips are a little faster for me, mostly it's about practicing with what you have.

I make my own front and rear fiber optic sights so they are a matched set.
Most times the fibers are different heights from the top on other brands.

I would have to write a book to explain everything involved in doing a competition action job. No light strikes. It's 100% reliable with firmly seated Federal primers.
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Old 01-07-2017, 05:16 PM
lefty_jake lefty_jake is offline
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I have a question about chamfering the cylinder on a 19-3. I believe the 19-3 has recessed chambers. Do people chamfer these cylinders? If so, can you describe how it looks or possibly provide a picture. I am also interested in what tool is used.

I have heard people say that guns with recessed cylinders speedload easily because the recess acts like a funnel, but I have not found this to be the case. I have found that the square edges of the recess and the chamber are not especially conducive to speed loading. And I have thought that it might be nice to have the speedloading smoothed out a bit. But after looking at the cylinder, it seemed like it might be best to leave it alone. If people have had good success chamfering these cylinders, I might think about it again. Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2017, 05:24 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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The square corners are on the flat and the recessed chambers. Both can benefit from chamfering. What you want is a small amount of angle on the chamber entrance. You can use a countersink of 82 or 90 degrees. It is best to only put a small edge break on the extractor, then remove it to chamfer the cylinder the rest of the way. Too big a chamfer on the extractor will make it ride over the rim of the case instead of pulling it out.
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  #7  
Old 01-09-2017, 02:39 PM
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Any suggestions for a quality Smith in the southeast Michigan area that can do this kind of work?
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