I have a timing issue that I discovered at the range yesterday. In single action mode it locks up tight and shoots fine, but double action it has lite strikes and fails to fire mostly on the first pull of the trigger. After further review of double action mode the cylinder is not locking until the hammer drops and you can see the cylinder jump into the locked position. Disassembled the gun this morning and see that I have a Two pin Hand like the model 34, but model 36 shows a 3 pin hand part no 311460 standard size for the model 36. Of course i bought the gun from another person who told me he had some lite strikes when shooting and he thought it was the ammo. Any ideas or suggestions I am going to order the hand with the proper part number and change it out but do you think this will fix the problem? This is a Smith and Wesson Model 36 no dash J frame 3 inch Square butt. any input would be great.

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"were burning daylight"

In addition to possible wear on the ratches and/or hand, I would also check for and emiminate any other issues that could be contributing to the DCU problem in double action.

One would be to make sure the internals and the internal frame, hand window, cylinder, yoke, extractor assembly are completely clean and properly lubricated.

I would also check to see that the cylinder/yoke assy is aligned properly in the frame, and that the rear gauge on the cylinder (headspace) is correct. Removing excess end shake (headspace), if it is present, may take care of the DCU problem without further intervention. Correct rear gauge is .060" - .064".

Also, wear or improper modification of the DA trigger bevel and the hammer foot contact surfaces can make the hammer leave the interface "early" and contribute to this lack of carry up in DA.

If the problem is finally determined to be the hand ratchet interface, substituting a hand that is .001" - .002" wider at the throat (tip), may cure the problem.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Back to my main thought on the hand would this be the incorrect hand as a 2 pin as oppose to the parts list shows a 3 pin hand. Could this cause a length of travel issue if wrong hand? Should either hand work?

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"were burning daylight"

Either hand will work. The third pin on the back of the hand (added in a later revision) serves as an passive safety mechanism, blocking forward motion of the bolt when the gun is cocked. If the new style, 3 pin hand is used, the rear of the square lug at the front of the bolt may have to be relieved at the bottom to accomodate the third pin's (and the hand's) final position, as it rises behind bolt.

In terms of lack of carry up, length of the hand is not the issue.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Ok. So the hammer is dropping before the cylinder lock up. If you pull the trigger fast it will lock up before the drop. So that takes us to the hammer and trigger, in this case. How can I tell witch one should be replaced or both. Do you have any other Ideas. Want to thank you for your help.

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"were burning daylight"

It's a carry up problem. Try an oversize hand, as has been suggested, or replace the cylinder star and re-cut the ratchets . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

So you don't think it is the hammer or trigger? My first thought was the over sized hand may correct the problem also. No head space issue or end shake problems, and the cylinder star doesn't show signs of wear at all.

__________________
"were burning daylight"

What is the current rear gauge, or headspace?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I do want to thank you for your help. I did another check on the revolver and lightly held my finger on the cylinder and it doesn't lock up every time. The head or rear space is in limits and no end shake to speak of. so I believe it is just out of time. I order an over sized hand and will fit it when it arrives and it may fix my problem. All my other smiths lock up well before they are fully cocked, this one doesn't. I measured the thickness of the current hand and is .073 with slop and with a magnafine glass looks like the front point has been flattened . What should the head space be between the barrel and the cylinder? I have a Smith and Wesson DA 32 S&W that is 110 years old that works better than this one and just as accurate. Rear .063

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"were burning daylight"

1.dont hold your finger on the cylinder. 2. Is it all the chambers or just 1 or 2? If it is a slow chamber or two I would take the cylinder out and give the slow rachets a few whacks with a square punch. I find an large Allen key works best and small hammer. I position the small end facing away from the direction I want to peen the rachet. That way when you strike the Allen it also pushes out and away. It works great and saves tons of aggravation and energy. It works great and lasts a long time.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I think I will replace the hand first before I do something I will regret. But thanks.

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"were burning daylight"

I replace the hand today and it works great both single and double action. the old hand had been filed on to much. I knocked the edge off the new one it was too tight on two holes, now locks up tight and no more light primer strikes and misfires. Yay!

__________________
"were burning daylight"

You do realize that the proper way to fix those two charge holes would have been to file the ratchets for those two holes on the cylinder star, right?

__________________
Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I did both cause that made it a lot smoother Yet. Somebody has been into this gun before probably to try to tighten it up, but it works great now.

__________________
"were burning daylight"