*Edit: I'm bumping this thread. In short, I'm looking for a gunsmith (possibly with PPC experience) who is familiar with modifying the (forged) sear / hammer / trigger on a pre-lock S&W 586 to give a reliable 'staged' notch in the DA pull. If you know what I'm talking about, and have a lead for me, that would be great (personal message would be fine). If not, no need to read further. I'm surprised finding such information has been hard...

------------

So I'm interested in duplicating the 586 and it's action I had in the 80's, but am having a hard time finding a gunsmith who knows what I'm talking about (should I buy a pre-lock 586). I don't want to use an eraser, thank you. I bought that blue gun new and on the advice of the store owner had it sent to his gunsmith for an action tune that would let you pull the trigger 4/5 of the way, and have it stop to let you aim, then would break cleanly.

I did get this in an email from Grant Cunningham which sounds like it might be close. Does anyone know this technique, or know of someone who might be familiar with it? Thank you.

There are variations of the eraser trick but the only other way I know of is what Grant sent you.

You set the gun up with a slightly "too thick" hand. That gives you the "staged" feel near the end of the DA pull, actually after the cylinder stop drops into place and before the hammer falls.

It does require the ratchets be carefully "adjusted" (equalized) so the feel is the same on all chambers and the "staged" feel keeps lessening as the parts wear, which they do as what you're feeling is the hand binding up trying to pass by the ratchet. It's being "forced" thru a space a bit too narrow for its' thickness.

Many new guns have this feel but not with any consistency (one chamber with none, one with a bunch and the others in between) and idiot gun writers have for years called it a "feature" of the S&W action...

I set mine for NO "staged" feel which also requires equalizing the ratchets. They're actually only a thicker hand away from what you want. Many would (erroneously) say mine are timed "late".

Hope this helps.

I think this is what you need. It is adjustable by removing the grips and works on spring pressure. Built in the 60s by Royce Weddle.

Attached Images

	garys pistols 021.jpg (51.4 KB, 79 views)
	garys pistols 020.jpg (53.8 KB, 76 views)

One way to do it would be to make the hand as it should be, rather than too tight, so you have a nice smooth action all the way through. Then get a rubber O ring that will just fit inside the rebound spring and cut it to length so it contacts the rebound slide just before the double action sear releases. Then a slight compression of the rubber would break the shot.

This is a variation of the rubber eraser glued to the back of the trigger that the OP didn't want, so may not be an acceptable solution.

I have tried triggers set up like this, but found it just made me pull the shot sometimes. Now I just pull all the way through smoothly with better results. To each his own.

Trigger staging is a dangerous technique because it can be inconsistent through the cycling of the cylinder. Practicing proper trigger control is the only way to go.

I had the revolver package done on a 625 a S&W-and it does the index firin for double action very well, as well as everything else. It has been a while, so I don't know about the work coming out of the performance center now. It is a 625-8 and I had them champfer the charge hole and install a FO front sight as well-great action and tune-one of my favorites. I think it was called the master revolver package (?).

We shoot a 16 match double action match at the club each year, it's a blast. I have the narrow trigger on my guns. I wrap my finger around the trigger and start to pull, when my finger touches the frame I realign my sights and squeeze a little more. Larry

It may surprise you, but there is nothing that needs to be done except use the gun enough to be sensitive to the trigger. The "staging" is inherent in the S&W lockwork. It seems to be particularly noticeable in the J-Frame"Centennial" style guns that are very easy to stage.

__________________
Gunsmithing since 1961

A few years back I shot PPC Matches and used a Model 15. The M15 I used was slicked up some, but still within spec's. I taught myself to stage the trigger for rapid fire without the use of any additional smithing or modifications and after a while it became second nature. I no longer shoot PPC, but am still able to successfully shoot it fast by staging the trigger. A slightly different finger position is required but again it's something you get use to.

And this is how I do it. Also if I understand correctly, the eraser on the trigger is for reducing overtravel, not "staging"....