Thumb Cylinder release Model .36 Chief

[sandmanfl]

I have a model .36 chief that I can barley open.When open the cylinder spins freely and indexes no problem.I have the gun since 1994.. My son had it for the last 25 rarely fired but kept well maintained he bobbed the hammer spur I have it back .Any help would be appreciated.Or any wheel gunsmiths in Daytona Area

[lonestar57]

First check the ejector rod to see if it came loose (un-screwed). A very common occurrence from time to time. If its loose tighten it back (threads are reversed) and preferably using s little dab of Blue Locktite on the rod threads.

[sandmanfl]

Thanks that is first thing I tried

[apollo99]

It could be it needs a good cleaning, remove the side plate, spray liberally with wd-40, compressed air to remove gunk, repeat. Than oil it and re assemble.

[lefty_jake]

Sandmanfl, you have not told us about your familiarity with revolvers. If you are used to taking the sideplate off a Smith & Wesson revolver, then giving the gun a thorough internal cleaning is a good first step for examining this issue.

However, for anyone who has never opened a revolver, I always encourage them to approach the sideplate with caution. Removing the sideplate is not difficult, but it does require specific tools and procedures. Below are some brief notes about removing the sideplate.

• You must have proper sized hollow ground screwdrivers or you will damage the screws or the finish around them.
• Keep track of the screws and put them back in the same holes they came out of.
• Do not pry the sideplate to remove it.
• To remove the sideplate, tap on the grip frame with a piece of wood or a screwdriver handle. The sideplate will works its way loose. Keep your thumb on the sideplate so it does not bounce away.
• The edges of the sideplate will be sharp. Handle the sideplate carefully so that none of the edges get damaged.
• After you remove the sideplate, there will be one piece inside the revolver that is loose and which can just fall out. That piece is the hammer block safety. It is important. Don't loose it.
• Sometimes when you put the sideplate back, it is difficult to get the hammer block back in place. Fiddle with it, and you will get it.

You can find videos on youtube which illustrate the process. I don't mean to make it over complicated. It is not really very difficult. But if you are not comfortable with this process, it is totally appropriate to leave all internal maintenance of revolvers to a gunsmith.

Also, if you do decide to clean the inside of the revolver, please use cleaners and lubricants that are designed for firearms. I do not use WD40 for anything related to firearms.

[armorer951]

Could also be the center pin is not long enough to properly interface with the front locking bolt. The end of the center pin must come just past the end of the extractor rod when the thumbpiece is fully depressed.

[ViperR]

Originally Posted by apollo99

It could be it needs a good cleaning, remove the side plate, spray liberally with wd-40, compressed air to remove gunk, repeat. Than oil it and re assemble.

Nooo....never use WD-40. Even blown off with air, the thin residue will gum up and shellac the surface of the parts as it dries over time. The oiling afterwards you mention, won't dilute all the WD treated surfaces. Spray the action with a non-chlorinated auto brake parts cleaner, then oil contacting parts.

[ViperR]

Originally Posted by armorer951

Could also be the center pin is not long enough to properly interface with the front locking bolt. The end of the center pin must come just past the end of the extractor rod when the thumbpiece is fully depressed.

It don't believe that is the problem. He stated it was rarely fired and worked fine before it sat, so how can the center rod suddenly become shorter?

[scooter123]

Originally Posted by armorer951

Could also be the center pin is not long enough to properly interface with the front locking bolt. The end of the center pin must come just past the end of the extractor rod when the thumbpiece is fully depressed.

This is very likely cause for a problem such as this. The solution is to use a stone to shorten the tip of the ejector rod just enough so that when the center pin is fully depressed it projects slightly past the surrounding ejector rod.

With a blued revolver the next step after getting the tip fitted just perfectly is to apply some Cold Bluing to mask the area that has been stoned. BTW, 2 or 3 applications while being careful limit the area treated to just the tip will result in a difficult to detect treatment because the treated area is so small. Tips, use a fine tipped modelers paint brush and just apply the solution on the bare area of steel. The drill is to apply the solution, wait 5 or 10 minutes until it stops getting darker, then rinse it dry with a wetted Q Tip. Once you have achieved the darkest treatment possible then use a Q Tip wetted with WD-40 to fill the "pores" in the black oxide to act as a corrosion inhibitor.

[len917]

I have a similar problem on my 1970's "J" frame. I find that the cylinder sometimes shifts laterally and is hard to open There is a screw on the body of the frame on the right side. (Opposite where the cylinder opens) if you tighten that screw, the cylinder becomes movable when closed. That screw tightens the yoke. Try it

[soFlaNative]

len917's post reminded me that my 36-1 came with the two crowned side plate screws reversed by the previous owner. A quick fix that solved a sticky latch.

[sandmanfl]

Sorry I did not get back to everybody.Had some heart problems.I have had this gun stripped down on multiple occasions even did a trigger job a few years ago.No problems soFla Native you get the cigar switched screws .It is now smooth as glass.Never noticed the slight difference in length who said you can't teach a old dog new tricks Thanks everybody