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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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Old 02-20-2017, 11:41 AM
buckyjames1 buckyjames1 is offline
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Default 686/586 action job help

So I have taken the plunge and started performing my own action work. I have 4 under my belt now (60, 617, 586, 686). The actions are better, slicker, and after I installed misc springs, they are lighter but:

1: On my 586, I notice a hint of grit (although small) at the very beginning (at like the first 10%). The grit is evident during both SA and DA pulls. Its small but its there. Maybe I missed something on the cylinder stop? What part should I revisit?

2: My 686 feels good, however since cleaning up the action, I now notice that I have 2 cylinders with a tiny bit of grit also. Ratchet? If it is ratchet, how does one go about cleaning them up? When looking at the star's "face" with the gun pointing down, does one stone the faces or the outside border, or is it the inside centers?

3. Is it normal to slick em up some, then in doing so, it seems to bring up a different grit, or do I just suck that bad...

Any video links? I can't seem to find much on star clean up
First I bought Jerry's action tune video, then I found
, That video was pretty darn good too.

Last edited by buckyjames1; 02-20-2017 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 01:22 PM
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When he took a screw driver and "pried" the side plate off I quit looking at it. If you continue to work as he outlines it you will damage your revolver eventually. Get the Jerry Miculek video on Trigger Job. It shows the "correct" way.
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:02 PM
buckyjames1 buckyjames1 is offline
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Your post didn't really help much either.
Already stated I bought the video and simply had a few follow up questions.

Last edited by buckyjames1; 02-20-2017 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:05 PM
slickracer slickracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard View Post
When he took a screw driver and "pried" the side plate off I quit looking at it. If you continue to work as he outlines it you will damage your revolver eventually. Get the Jerry Miculek video on Trigger Job. It shows the "correct" way.
+1, pulling the trigger with the sideplate removed is also a good way to break through hammer stud.
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Old 02-20-2017, 04:00 PM
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Found 1 of the culprits:

586: detail stripped it, got to the Bolt and trigger mating surfaces, Not sure of proper parts verbage but the "sear" portion where the cylinder stop and trigger interface was overlooked. I don't have a stone that small or a file fine enough so I very lightly went over it with 800 then 1000 paper edge. re-assembled and it is almost gritty free

DA = 8.7lbs with 1 slightly heavier cylinder (ratchet still eh?)
SA = 3.5lbs. have the JIG, so I might need to stone just a smidgen better.

Question: On the trigger, where it interfaces with the cylinder stop in a SEAR type fashion, is a very small "Square" protrusion, what exactly is that? I think if I lightly went after it again, the grit would probably go away.

Last edited by buckyjames1; 02-20-2017 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 04:48 PM
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Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, "The S&W Revolvers, A Shop Manual" will help you with nomenclature, how to identify, communicate, and troubleshoot problems, and has a lot of info about design, function, repair and maintenance issues. Also includes detailed specs and many fine illustrations.

Stoning your SA bevel on the trigger will not necessarily make the trigger pull lighter, (may have the opposite affect) and is generally not required unless you are repairing a push off condition, or have wear on the bevel point. If you haven't changed the OEM rebound slide spring, an aftermarket (Wolff) 14, or 15 pound spring will bring the SA down a bit. S&W's "factory standard" SA minimum pull weight is 3.0 pounds.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:19 PM
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thanks for input, installed a #14 Wilson spring and Wilson main spring.
In second thinking, the SA/DA pull weight is fine, Im just trying to get the last tiny bit of grit out, there is still a tiny hint of it at the veryyy beginning of the pull. I'm still thinking it has to do with the Trigger to Cylinder stop mating surfaces.

Last edited by buckyjames1; 02-20-2017 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:59 PM
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MANY TIMES THAT WHAT YOU FEEL, CAN BE THE CYLINDER STOP DRAGGING ON THE C/S WINDOW IN THE FRAME. STONE THE SIDE OF THE CYLINDER STOP LIGHTLY WHERE IT CONTACTS THE FRAME. OR THE SPRING HOLE ON THE C/S CATCHING THE SPRING . BEVEL THAT SPRING HOLE WOULD ELIMINATE THAT. JP
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