My Heavy Duty locked up when the ejector rod backed out. I finally got it open by pulling the pin from the front, but my efforts resulted in a bent ejector rod which made the action difficult to cycle. I removed it and did my best to straighten it through tapping with a small brass hammer. It is better, but I can still feel a slight glitch at one point in a full rotation of the cylinder.

It may be best to simply replace it. Will any full length K, L, or N frame rod work? A seller on Ebay has new/old stock rods meant for Victory Models -
would that work?

This gun had such a great action until I buggered it up. I just want to get it back like it was.

Thanks in advance.

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

Any N frame rod for a 4" or longer barrel will work if you match up thread direction. Newer with the groove behind the knurling are left hand thread and older ones that are right hand go straight from knurling to rod. This of course ignores all the much older rods with large ends.


You may have to adjust the end length a little bit. Tip of rod inner rod should stick out slightly when latch is pressed or you press rear end of rod flush with extractor star.

End shake can also be a contributor, as the end of the extractor rod (cyl assy) moves forward, and can bind at the interface with the locking bolt.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Are K, L, and N frame ejector rods the same, assuming a four inch barrel?

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

No, K&L are the same length. N-frame ejector rods are longer. The rod you need is the N-frame, post-war right hand thread. Hard to find. I would put the cylinder assembly in the yoke. Take the yoke out of the gun, hold it up, and spin it. See how much it wobbles. You might then see where to tap it to bend it back. If you have friend with a lathe or drill press, you could put the rod in it and use a dial indicator to see how far out it is.

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S&WCA 1729

I was going to suggest the same thing - using a lathe and a dial indicator. Might take some patience, but it can be done. Not too long ago I had to straighten out a bent 3/16" hardened steel rod (not gun related) and that's exactly what I did.

The runout on the extractor rod end is not usually caused by the rod itself being bent. It's caused within the interface between the threads on the extractor rod, and the threaded extractor body. The internal thread of the extractor stem and the external threads on the extractor rod have to be tightened, and then often times straightened, so that they are aligned as an assembly....or, so there is no runout when they are fully assembled/tightened together.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer